Ever looked at a pair of high-end oxfords in a shop window and wondered why they look so much sleeker than yours? It's not just the $500 leather. It’s the laces. Most of us grew up doing the standard "criss-cross" because it’s easy and fast, but it makes your dress shoes look cluttered. If you want that sharp, clean, horizontal aesthetic, you need to know how to lace shoes straight across.
It’s actually called bar lacing. Or straight lacing.
People think it's just for formal events, but honestly, it’s a game changer for casual sneakers too. It cleans up the silhouette. It stops the tongue from bunching. But here’s the kicker: there are actually two ways to do it, and if you pick the wrong one for your shoe type, you’re going to be in for a world of discomfort or a very awkward tying experience.
Why Straight Lacing Isn't Just for Fancy People
The first thing you’ve gotta realize is that lacing isn't just about fashion. It’s physics. When you use traditional criss-cross lacing, the tension is distributed diagonally. That's great for running or hiking where you need your foot locked in from every angle. But for a leather shoe? It creates unnecessary pressure points.
Straight lacing allows the eyelets to pull together evenly. It reduces the "pinch" across the top of your bridge. If you have high arches, this is basically a godsend. Plus, let's be real—it just looks expensive.
The Oxford vs. Derby Problem
Before you even touch your laces, look at your shoes. Are the eyelet tabs (the leather bits with the holes) sewn under the front of the shoe or on top?
If they are sewn underneath, you have an Oxford. These are meant to close completely so that the two sides touch. If they are sewn on top, you have a Derby or a sneaker. This matters because "true" straight lacing only works properly on shoes with an even number of eyelet pairs. If you have five holes on each side, you're going to end up with a weird diagonal at the top unless you use a specific "hidden" skip technique.
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How to Lace Shoes Straight Across: The Step-by-Step
Let's get into the weeds. Pull out your laces. All of them. Start fresh.
The Foundation. Start at the bottom (the holes closest to your toes). Push the lace ends down through the eyelets from the outside. You want the lace to sit on top, creating your first horizontal "bar." Make sure the ends are even. This is the only time you'll care about them being the same length for a minute.
The First Move. Take the left lace. Bring it up inside the shoe and poke it out through the very next hole on the left side. Then, pull it straight across and push it down through the hole on the right. Now you have two bars.
The Leapfrog. Now take the right lace (the one currently at the bottom). You aren't going to the second hole. You’re skipping it. Bring it up inside the shoe to the third hole on the right. Poke it out. Drag it straight across to the third hole on the left and push it down.
Keep Going. You basically repeat this leapfrog pattern. Each lace end skips a hole on its own side before crossing over to create the bar. It’s like a ladder being built from the inside out.
It feels weird at first. You’ll think you’re running out of lace on one side, but if you’re doing it right on a shoe with an even number of eyelets (like 6 pairs), both ends will pop out at the top perfectly.
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Dealing with the "Odd Number" Nightmare
What if you have five eyelets? Most Vans and many dress shoes do.
If you try the standard method, one lace will end up on the inside while the other is on the outside. It’s a mess. To fix this, you have to "cheat." When you get to the very last eyelet, instead of crossing over, you run one lace diagonally underneath.
Another trick used by professional stylists involves starting the first bar differently. Instead of going straight across at the bottom, you feed the lace through the first eyelet on one side and then diagonally to the second eyelet on the opposite side. It hides the "mess" at the very bottom where no one looks anyway.
The Comfort Factor: Is it Actually Better?
Ian Fieggen, the man known globally as "Professor Shoelace," has spent an absurd amount of time analyzing the mechanics of shoe knots. According to his research, straight lacing—specifically the "Lydiard Lacing" method—is the best for relieving pressure on the upper ridge of the foot.
Why? Because the "under" parts of the laces are all running vertically along the sides of the eyelets rather than crossing over the sensitive nerves on the top of your foot.
However, there is a trade-off. It’s harder to tighten. If you’re an athlete, don't do this to your soccer cleats. You won't get the same lockdown. But for a day at the office or a wedding? Your feet will thank you.
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Myths About Bar Lacing
- "It takes way longer to tie." Only the first time. Once it's set, you tension it just like any other shoe.
- "It makes the laces look shorter." Usually, it’s the opposite. Because you aren't zig-zagging as much, you might actually end up with longer lace ends at the top.
- "It's only for formal shoes." Tell that to the skate community in the early 2000s. Fat laces on chunky Dunks with straight bars was the peak of street style.
Practical Checklist for a Clean Finish
If you want the perfect look, don't just follow the pattern. You need to handle the laces correctly.
- Avoid Twisting. As you pull each bar across, make sure the lace is flat. A twisted lace ruins the "military" precision of the look.
- Tension as You Go. Don't wait until the end to tighten it. Pull each bar snug as you move up the shoe.
- The Knot. If you’re wearing formal oxfords, the knot should be small. Some people even tuck the bow behind the tongue for a "limitless" look, though that can be annoying if the laces are thick.
Real-World Examples of When to Use This
I’ve seen guys show up to black-tie events with expensive tuxedos and criss-crossed laces. It’s a small detail, but it stands out to anyone who knows style. It’s like wearing a clip-on tie—it’s functional, but it lacks the "finish."
On the flip side, look at a pair of white Common Projects or any minimalist sneaker. The design is supposed to be clean. Criss-cross laces add a bunch of visual noise that distracts from the silhouette of the shoe. Straight lacing reinforces the minimalism.
The Military Connection
Did you know many military units require straight lacing on parade boots? It’s not just for the uniform code. It’s also a safety feature. If a soldier's foot is injured and swelling, straight laces are much easier to cut off quickly with a knife compared to a tangled web of criss-crosses.
Making Your Move
Learning how to lace shoes straight across is one of those tiny life skills that pays off every time you get dressed. It takes maybe five minutes to master the "leapfrog" rhythm.
Next time you’re cleaning your shoes or unboxing a new pair, resist the urge to just lace them the way they came from the factory. Pull the laces out. Start at the bottom. Build the bars.
Next Steps for Your Wardrobe:
- Check your eyelets. Count them. If you have an odd number, plan to use the diagonal "cheat" at the top or bottom.
- Inspect lace quality. Thin, waxed cotton laces look best for straight lacing on dress shoes. Thick, flat laces are better for sneakers.
- Practice on one shoe first. Compare it to the traditional lacing on the other shoe. You’ll see the difference in "cleanliness" immediately.
- Lock it in. Once you’ve laced them, walk around for ten minutes. You might need to re-tension the bars once the leather settles.
You've now upgraded your style without spending a dime. It's subtle, it's functional, and honestly, it just looks better.