You just dropped four hundred bucks on a pair of handcrafted Italian Oxfords. They’re gorgeous. The leather smells like a high-end library, and the welt is stitched to perfection. But then you look down and realize the laces are a tangled, diagonal mess that makes your expensive footwear look like something you’d find in a bargain bin at a suburban mall. Honestly, it's a tragedy. Most guys treat lacing as an afterthought, a functional necessity they haven't thought about since kindergarten. That’s a mistake.
Lacing is the finishing touch. It’s the difference between a sharp, professional silhouette and a sloppy "I just threw these on" vibe. If you’re wearing Oxfords, specifically, the way the laces sit across the eyelets can either emphasize the sleekness of the closed lacing system or completely ruin it. We’re talking about the visual language of formalwear here.
How to lace men's dress shoes isn't just about keeping them on your feet; it's about geometry and tradition.
The Oxford Problem: Why Straight Bar Lacing is Non-Negotiable
If you take away nothing else from this, remember this: Oxfords require straight bar lacing. Period. There is no debate. Because the Oxford has a "closed" lacing system—where the eyelet tabs are sewn under the vamp—the goal is for the two sides to meet perfectly in the middle. When you use standard "criss-cross" lacing (the kind you use on your gym sneakers), the leather bunches up. It looks bulky. It looks wrong.
Straight bar lacing creates clean, horizontal lines. It’s understated. It lets the quality of the leather do the talking. To do this right, you start by threading the lace through the bottom two holes from the top down. This creates your first "bar." From there, one end of the lace travels up the inside of the shoe to the next eyelet on the same side, then across. The other end skips an eyelet on its own side before crossing over. It sounds like a brain teaser, but once you see the pattern emerge, it’s basically second nature.
The beauty of the straight bar is that it maintains the tension evenly across the bridge of your foot. You won't get those weird pressure points that make a long wedding or a board meeting feel like a marathon in lead boots.
Derby Shoes and the Freedom of the Open Lace
Now, Derbies (or Bluchers, if you’re feeling technical) are a different animal. These have an "open" lacing system where the flaps are sewn on top of the shoe's body. They’re inherently less formal. You can get away with more here.
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You’ve probably seen guys use criss-cross lacing on Derbies, and honestly? It’s fine. It fits the slightly more rugged, versatile nature of the shoe. If you’re wearing a heavy-soled longwing Derby with jeans or chinos, the diagonal lines of a criss-cross pattern add a bit of texture that works. It feels intentional.
However, if you want to elevate a Derby for a business-casual setting, you can still use the straight bar method. It tidies up the look. It’s the middle ground between "I'm going to the pub" and "I'm heading to a mid-day gala." Just keep in mind that because the flaps move more freely on a Derby, straight bar lacing can sometimes be a bit harder to tighten perfectly. You might have to give each bar a little tug to get that snug fit.
The Secret to "Hidden" Knots
Some style purists loathe the look of a bow sitting on top of a pristine dress shoe. It breaks the line. If you’re wearing a tuxedo or going for a hyper-minimalist aesthetic, you can actually hide the knot.
Basically, you finish the lacing process as usual, but instead of tying the bow on the outside, you tuck the ends behind the tongue. It’s a bit of a "pro move" and can be slightly less comfortable if your shoes are already tight. But if you have the room? It looks incredibly slick. It’s that extra 1% of effort that people notice without being able to quite put their finger on why you look so much better than everyone else in the room.
Material Matters: What Your Laces Say About You
Let’s talk about the laces themselves for a second because people mess this up constantly. Dress shoe laces should be thin, waxed, and round.
- Waxed Cotton: This is the gold standard. The wax prevents the laces from fraying and helps them hold their shape. It also gives them a slight sheen that matches polished calfskin.
- Flat Laces: These are usually for sneakers or very casual boots. If you put flat, wide laces in a pair of Allen Edmonds, you’re doing it wrong.
- The Length: Too long and you have massive loops flopping around like puppy ears. Too short and you’re struggling to tie a knot with your fingernails. Generally, for 5-6 eyelets, you want a lace around 30 to 33 inches.
There’s also the color factor. Ninety percent of the time, you should match your laces to your shoes. Black shoes, black laces. Dark brown shoes, dark brown laces. But every once in a while, you’ll see someone pull off a "pop" of color—maybe navy laces in tan shoes. It’s risky. It can look a bit "dandy" or like you’re trying too hard to be the "fun guy" at the office. If you’re going to do it, make sure the rest of your outfit is incredibly dialed in so it looks like a choice, not an accident.
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Dealing with the "V" Gap
One thing that drives guys crazy is when they lace up their Oxfords and the two leather flaps don't touch. They form a "V" shape.
First off: don't panic. If your shoes are new, the leather is stiff. As they break in, the flaps will naturally pull closer together. However, if the gap is wider than an inch, your shoes might actually be too small, or you have a very high instep. In this case, straight bar lacing is actually your friend because it allows for a bit more "spread" than criss-cross lacing without looking distorted.
Expert shoemakers like those at Crockett & Jones or Edward Green often point out that a slight V-gap is perfectly acceptable. It shows the shoe is doing its job of gripping your foot. So, don't over-tighten them just to close the gap; you'll just end up with numb toes and ruined leather.
Essential Lacing Methods for Every Situation
There isn't just one way to lace a shoe, even if straight bar is the king. Sometimes you need a bit of variety based on the specific footwear or the level of formality you're aiming for.
- Standard Parallel (Straight Bar) Lacing: The gold standard for Oxfords and formal events. It minimizes friction and looks the cleanest.
- European Straight Lacing: A variation where the laces cross on the inside in a zig-zag pattern but look like straight bars on the outside. It’s slightly easier to tighten than the standard version and is very common in high-end shoe boutiques in London and Paris.
- Diagonal Lacing: This is where one end of the lace goes from the bottom eyelet directly to the top opposite eyelet, and the rest of the lacing happens around it. It’s a bit asymmetrical. It’s okay for casual wear, but it lacks the balance needed for true formal attire.
If you’re wearing boots—say, some sleek Chelsea boots with laces (technically Balmoral boots)—you might want to stick to the European method. It provides more support for the ankle area while keeping the lower foot looking dressy.
Maintenance and Longevity
Think of your laces as a wear item, like the tires on a car. They aren't meant to last forever. Over time, the wax wears off, the aglets (the plastic or metal tips) crack, and the tension starts to cause fraying.
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Replace your laces every six to twelve months if you wear the shoes regularly. It’s a five-dollar investment that instantly refreshes the look of the shoe. When you’re lacing them back up, take the time to ensure the laces aren't twisted. Twisted laces look amateur. Take a second to flatten them out as you pull them through each eyelet. It sounds obsessive, but it’s these tiny details that separate a well-dressed man from someone who just bought a suit.
And please, for the love of all things sartorial, learn the "Ian Knot" or a proper Surgeon’s Knot. The standard "bunny ears" knot often sits crookedly across the shoe. A balanced knot sits horizontally, parallel to the bars of the laces. If your bow is sitting vertically (north-to-south), you're tying a "granny knot." To fix this, just reverse the direction of your first overhand knot. It's a simple fix that makes a massive visual difference.
Actionable Steps for Perfect Lacing
Don't just read this and forget it. Go to your closet right now.
Grab your most formal pair of shoes. Unlace them completely. If the laces look tired or fuzzy, toss them and order some high-quality waxed cotton replacements from a reputable brand like Kirby Allison or even just a solid local cobbler.
Re-lace them using the straight bar method. Pay attention to the tension—firm but not restrictive. Once you reach the top, tie the knot so it sits perfectly horizontal. Walk around. Feel the difference in how the pressure is distributed across your foot.
Once you’ve mastered the Oxford, move on to your Derbies and experiment with the European straight lace. It’s about building the muscle memory so that the next time you’re getting ready for a big event, you aren't fumbling with your footwear. Your shoes are the foundation of your outfit; treat the lacing like the structural integrity it is. Keep the lines clean, keep the wax fresh, and never settle for the default lacing that came in the box. Professional-grade style is always in the details.