The Nike Air Max 97 is a weird shoe. Designed by Christian Tresser in 1997, it was famously inspired by Japanese high-speed bullet trains—hence the "Silver Bullet" nickname for the OG colorway—and those metallic ripples that wrap around the upper are iconic. But here is the thing: the lacing system is incredibly narrow. If you just pull them out of the box and tighten the laces like you’re tying a pair of work boots, you’re going to ruin the silhouette. You’ll end up with a bulky, choked-out mess that hides the 3M reflective strips and makes the tongue look lumpy.
Lacing them right is basically an art form. You want to preserve that sleek, aerodynamic vibe without losing your circulation. Whether you're rocking the Undefeated collaborations or just a classic triple black pair, the way those strings sit determines if the shoe looks premium or like a hand-me-down. Honestly, most people get this wrong because they treat the hidden lace loops like standard eyelets. They aren't.
The Loosened Deadstock Look
If you walk through Soho or Harajuku, you’ll notice that almost nobody actually ties their 97s. This is the "Deadstock" or "Loose" style. It's the gold standard for lifestyle wear.
The goal here is to make the shoe look like it’s barely held together, yet it stays on your foot because the 97 has a pretty snug, sock-like internal construction anyway. Start at the bottom. Make sure the laces are flat. I cannot stress this enough. If the lace twists inside that first loop, it’s going to bug you all day and look sloppy. Pull the laces through the bottom eyelets so they’re even.
Instead of pulling tight as you go up, keep about an inch of slack between the eyelets. When you get to the top, don't tie a bow. Just let the aglets (those little plastic tips) dangle off the sides. Some people like to tuck the remaining lace behind the tongue, but with the 97, the tongue is fairly thin, so that can get uncomfortable against your instep. Better to just let them hang. It gives the shoe a wider, more aggressive stance that balances out the chunky full-length Air unit.
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Dealing With the Hidden Eyelet System
The Air Max 97 uses a "ghillie" lacing system. This means the loops are tucked under those piping layers. It’s what gives the shoe its clean, ripple effect. However, these loops are notorious for being tight.
If you’re trying to figure out how to lace Air Max 97 for a custom look, you have to be careful with the friction. Over time, the lace rubbing against those narrow fabric loops can actually fray them. If you’re a serious collector, you might want to swap the factory round laces for flat ones. Flat laces sit more flush against the tongue and reduce the "bulge" factor.
The Over-Under Technique
Most people go "under-over," where the lace comes up through the loop. Try the "over-under" method instead. By feeding the lace down into the loop from the top, the crossing lace sits deeper into the shoe's structure. This exposes more of the tongue's mesh, which is great for breathability—especially since the 97 is a bit of a sweatbox due to all that synthetic leather and TPU.
The Hypebeast Knot
Sometimes you actually need to walk long distances. Dangling laces are a trip hazard if you’re actually hitting the pavement hard. For this, you want the "Hypebeast Knot" or the "Factory Knot."
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- Lace the shoe all the way to the second-to-last eyelet.
- Cross the laces.
- Make a small, tight loop with each end and pull them through each other, creating a tiny, condensed knot that sits right at the top of the tongue.
- Don't let the "ears" of the bow hang down.
This keeps the tension high so the heel doesn't slip—a common complaint with the 97's stiff sole—but keeps the messy strings out of the way of those sleek side panels.
Why Lace Length Matters
Nike usually ships the 97 with laces that are frankly too long for the "loose" look. If you have 54-inch laces and you aren't tying them, you’re going to be stepping on the tips. That’s how you ruin aglets.
I’ve found that swapping in 45-inch laces is the "pro move." It gives you just enough length to reach the top eyelets with about three inches of overhang. It looks intentional. It looks clean.
The "Invisible" Lacing Method
If you really want to show off the lines of the shoe, you can go invisible. This involves lacing the shoe normally but stopping one eyelet early. You then take the remaining lace and thread it backwards into the shoe, tucking it under the foam insole.
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Is it comfortable? Sorta. You’ll feel it for the first ten minutes. But once the insole compresses around the lace, it stays put. This is the best way to photograph the shoe. It makes the 97 look like a piece of futuristic sculpture rather than a piece of athletic equipment.
Real-World Maintenance
Because the lacing system on this model is so integrated into the "waves," dirt gets trapped in those loops constantly. Every few months, you should completely unlace them. Use a soft-bristle brush (like a Crep Protect or Jason Markk brush) to get into the ghillie loops.
Check your laces for "pilling." Round laces on 97s tend to get those little fuzzy balls of fabric. If that’s happening, just buy a new pair of rope laces. It’s a $10 fix that makes a $170 shoe look brand new again.
Avoiding the "Choke"
The biggest mistake? Overtightening the middle section. The 97 is already a narrow-fitting shoe. Many people with slightly wider feet try to compensate by loosening the top but keeping the middle tight. This creates a "waist" in the shoe that ruins the wave aesthetic. Keep the tension consistent from the toe box all the way to the ankle.
Actionable Next Steps
To get the perfect fit and look right now, follow this sequence. First, unlace the entire shoe. It’s a pain, but you need a fresh start. Put your foot in the shoe before you start lacing. This ensures you aren't lacing them too tight for your actual foot volume.
Lace them using the "over-under" method to keep the profile low. Stop at the top eyelet and decide: are you going to let them dangle or do a factory knot? If you choose to dangle, check that the aglets don't hit the floor. If they do, unthread one loop and try again. Finally, take a damp cloth and wipe the tongue before the laces cover it back up. That’s how you keep a pair of 97s looking fresh for years instead of months.