Gravity is a beast. Honestly, if you’re staring at a flat tire on the shoulder of a highway or prepping for your first DIY oil change in the garage, that two-ton hunk of steel above you feels less like a vehicle and more like a massive, precarious weight just waiting for a reason to drop. Learning how to jack up a car is one of those foundational life skills that feels intimidating until you actually do it right once. Then it becomes muscle memory. But if you do it wrong? You’re looking at crushed rocker panels, a bent frame, or—heaven forbid—a trip to the ER.
Cars are heavy. Obviously. But they are also surprisingly fragile in the wrong places. You can’t just shove a floor jack anywhere under the body and start pumping. Most modern cars use unibody construction, which is basically a structural shell. If you place the jack under the floorboards, you’ll hear a sickening crunch as the metal folds like a soda can. I’ve seen it happen. It’s expensive.
Before you even touch the jack handle, you need to find a flat, level surface. This isn't a suggestion; it’s a hard rule. Asphalt can get soft in the summer heat, and gravel is a recipe for a slide. If you’re on a slope, you’re fighting physics, and physics usually wins.
The stuff you actually need (don't skip the stands)
Most people think a jack is all they need. Wrong. A jack is a lifting device, not a holding device. Using a jack without jack stands is like walking under a suspended piano held up by a frayed rope. Hydraulic seals fail. It happens.
You’ll likely have that flimsy "scissor jack" that came with your spare tire. It’s okay for emergencies, but it’s garbage for real maintenance. If you're at home, get a 3-ton hydraulic floor jack. They’re faster, more stable, and way less stressful to operate. Along with that, you need wheel chocks. These are little wedges—plastic, rubber, or even a sturdy chunk of 4x4 wood—that you jam behind the tires on the opposite end of the car. If you’re lifting the front, chock the back. It stops the car from rolling away while it’s precariously balanced on three wheels.
Locating the pinch welds and frame rails
Every car has specific "jacking points." On most sedans and crossovers, these are located on the pinch welds. These are the reinforced metal seams that run along the bottom of the car between the front and rear wheels. You’ll usually see a little notch or a reinforced flat area.
Trucks and older body-on-frame SUVs are different. You’ll want to aim for the frame rail—the big, thick square tubing that makes up the skeleton of the vehicle. If you're unsure, check the owner's manual. Seriously. It’s usually in the "In Case of Emergency" or "Maintenance" section. Don't guess. Guessing is how you end up with a jack head through your oil pan.
Step-by-step: How to jack up a car the right way
First, engage the parking brake. Firmly.
If you're changing a tire, loosen the lug nuts before you lift the wheel off the ground. If you wait until it’s in the air, the wheel will just spin uselessly while you tug on the wrench. Just break them loose about half a turn.
Now, slide the jack under the designated point.
- Close the valve on the jack handle (usually by twisting it clockwise).
- Position the "saddle"—the round metal cup—directly under the jacking point.
- Pump the handle slowly until it makes contact.
- Check the alignment. Is it centered? Is it slipping?
- Keep pumping until the tire clears the ground by an inch or two.
Once the car is up, grab your jack stand. Adjust the height and slide it under a reinforced part of the frame or the pinch weld near the jack. Slowly—very slowly—twist the jack handle counter-clockwise to lower the car onto the stand. The car should "sit" on the stand. I always give the car a gentle "nudge" with my hip once it's on the stands. Better to have it fall now than when my head is under the brake rotor.
Common mistakes that lead to disasters
One of the biggest blunders is jacking on the suspension components. People see a big control arm or a lateral link and think, "Hey, that looks solid." It’s not. Suspension bits are designed to move and pivot. If you put 1,500 pounds of pressure on a control arm, you’re likely to bend it or pop a ball joint.
Then there’s the "death by soft ground" scenario. If you’re stuck on dirt or soft grass, your jack will just sink. In a pinch, you can use a thick piece of plywood (at least 3/4 inch) to create a wider footprint for the jack, but this is an absolute "last resort" move.
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Why jacking points matter for different vehicles
Electric vehicles (EVs) have changed the game entirely. If you own a Tesla or a Rivian, you have to be incredibly careful. The entire underside of the car is basically a massive, multi-thousand-dollar lithium-ion battery. If you poke a hole in that with a jack, you aren't just looking at a repair bill; you're looking at a potential thermal runaway fire. Most EVs require specific "lifting pucks"—small rubber inserts—that fit into holes in the chassis to ensure the jack never touches the battery casing.
Heavy-duty trucks require higher-capacity jacks. A standard 2-ton jack might struggle with a loaded F-250. Always check the weight rating on your equipment. It’s printed on a sticker on the jack. If it’s peeling off or unreadable, buy a new jack. It’s cheaper than a funeral.
Actionable safety checklist for your next lift
Before you slide under there, run through this mental list. It’s the difference between a successful Saturday afternoon and a nightmare.
- Surface Check: Is the ground flat and hard? No ice, no sand, no soft asphalt.
- Chock the Wheels: Are the tires on the ground blocked from rolling forward or backward?
- Neutral or Park? The car should be in Park (or in gear if it’s a manual) with the e-brake pulled tight.
- Stand Placement: Is the jack stand on a structural part of the frame? Avoid gas tanks, floor pans, and thin exhaust pipes.
- The Shake Test: Give the car a firm push. If it wobbles, it’s not safe. Lower it and start over.
- Stay Out of the Way: Never put any part of your body under the car until it is resting firmly on jack stands.
Once you’re finished with the work, reverse the process. Jack the car up slightly to clear the stands, remove the stands, and then slowly lower the vehicle. If you loosened the lug nuts, remember to do a final "star pattern" tightening once the tires are back on terra firma. Torque them to the manufacturer's specs if you have a torque wrench. If you don't, get one. Over-tightening is just as bad as under-tightening.
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Learning how to jack up a car properly isn't just about changing tires. It’s about taking ownership of your machine and doing it with the respect that a two-ton object deserves. Stay safe, take your time, and always, always use those stands.