Roofing is one of those jobs that looks deceptively simple from the ground. You see a guy with a nail gun moving like a metronome, and you think, "I could do that." Then you get up there. Suddenly, the pitch feels steeper, the bundles of 3-tab shingles weigh eighty pounds, and you realize that a single misplaced nail can lead to a slow, agonizing leak that rots your rafters over the next five years. Honestly, learning how to install shingles isn't about the swinging of the hammer; it's about understanding the physics of water shed. If you don't respect the drip edge, the drip edge won't respect your drywall.
Most homeowners dive into this because they want to save five figures on labor. That’s fair. But you’ve got to be meticulous. We aren't just slapping pretty gravel-covered mats on wood; we are building a waterproof armor system.
The stuff you actually need before you climb the ladder
Stop thinking about shingles for a second. Before the first shingle even touches the roof, the "deck" (the wood underneath) has to be pristine. If you’re nailing into soft, punky plywood, those nails are going to back out within two seasons. Replacing bad decking is non-negotiable. You’ll also need a high-quality underlayment. While the old-school guys still swear by 15-lb felt paper, modern synthetic underlayments like Grip-Rite or Owens Corning Titanium are objectively better. They don't tear when you walk on them, and they provide a much better secondary barrier if a shingle blows off in a storm.
You need a drip edge. It's a cheap piece of metal flashing that goes along the eaves and rakes. It’s the difference between water rolling off into your gutter and water wicking back under the shingles to rot your fascia boards. Seriously. Don't skip it.
Then there's the ice and water shield. In any climate that sees a snowflake, this sticky, rubberized membrane is your best friend. It goes on the bottom three feet of the roof and in the valleys. It seals around every nail hole. It’s expensive, but cheaper than a new ceiling.
👉 See also: Sleeping With Your Neighbor: Why It Is More Complicated Than You Think
Getting the starter course right is 90% of the battle
You can't just start with a full shingle at the bottom edge. If you do, the gaps between the shingles (the joints) will line up with the gaps in the next row, and water will go straight to the wood. You need a "starter strip." You can buy pre-cut starter shingles, or you can take a standard three-tab shingle, flip it upside down, and cut the tabs off. This creates a solid base with a factory adhesive strip at the bottom edge.
Nail this starter course so it hangs over the drip edge by about half an inch. Not an inch. Not flush. Just a half-inch. This tiny overhang creates a "drip" that prevents water from clinging to the metal and creeping backward.
How to install shingles so they actually stay on
Once that starter is down, it’s time for the first real course. This is where most DIYers mess up the "stagger." If your vertical seams are too close together, you’re creating a highway for water. You want to offset your rows by about six inches.
Most manufacturers, like GAF or CertainTeed, have specific patterns printed on the bundles. Read them. They usually suggest cutting 6 inches off the first shingle of the second row, 11 inches off the first shingle of the third row, and so on. It creates a stair-step pattern. It looks better. It works better.
✨ Don't miss: At Home French Manicure: Why Yours Looks Cheap and How to Fix It
- Nailing is the most critical part.
- Keep the nail straight.
- Don't over-drive it so it sinks through the shingle.
- Don't under-drive it so the head sticks up.
- The nail must go through the "nailing line," which hits both the current shingle and the top of the one underneath it.
If you nail too high, the shingle will eventually slip out. If you nail too low, you’ll see the nail heads, and they will rust and leak. Use four nails per shingle for standard slopes, but if you’re in a high-wind area or have a steep pitch, go for six. It's an extra nickel of steel that saves a thousand-dollar repair.
Valleys and Flashing: Where the leaks live
Valleys are where the most water flows. You have two choices: open valleys (with metal flashing) or closed-cut valleys (where shingles overlap). Closed-cut looks cleaner and is faster, but an open metal valley is generally more durable. If you're doing a closed valley, make sure the shingles from the "lower" roof go under the shingles from the "steeper" or more dominant roof.
Don't forget the flashing around chimneys and vent pipes. Step flashing is the only way to go for sidewalls. You layer a piece of L-shaped metal, then a shingle, then metal, then a shingle. It creates a series of mini-waterfalls. If you just put one long piece of metal down the side, water will eventually find a way behind it. Caulking is not a substitute for proper flashing. Caulking is a temporary fix; metal is a permanent one.
Capping the ridge without cracking the shingles
The very top of the roof needs "ridge caps." These are thicker, reinforced shingles designed to fold over the peak. If it’s cold outside, these things will snap like crackers. Keep your ridge caps in a warm spot—maybe inside the house—until the moment you need to nail them down.
🔗 Read more: Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen Menu: Why You’re Probably Ordering Wrong
If you are installing a ridge vent (and you should, because a hot attic kills shingles), you’ll need to cut a slot in the roof sheathing at the peak. Then you nail the plastic vent over the slot and nail the ridge cap shingles over the vent. It keeps the house breathing. A roof that can't breathe will literally cook the shingles from the inside out, causing the granules to fall off and the warranty to vanish.
Safety isn't just a suggestion
Roofing is exhausting. You’re lugging heavy weights on an incline, usually in the sun. Dehydration leads to mistakes, and mistakes on a roof lead to the emergency room. Use a roof bracket (a "toe board") if the pitch is steep. Wear shoes with good grip—old-school skate shoes or specialized roofing boots like Cougar Paws make a massive difference in how much you trust your feet.
Watch your debris. Old nails have a way of hiding in the grass and finding your truck tires or your dog's paws. Rent a magnetic sweeper. It’s a ten-dollar tool that saves a hundred-dollar headache.
Practical steps for a successful install
- Check the weather. You need at least a three-day window of clear skies. Even if you're fast, "dried in" with underlayment is okay, but an open deck during a thunderstorm is a nightmare.
- Order 10% more than you think. You'll waste more than you expect on cuts and mistakes. It’s better to return a bundle than to run out when the sun is setting on a Sunday.
- Rent a roofing nailer. Your forearm will thank you. Manual hammering is for sheds; for a whole house, you want pneumatic power. Just make sure the compressor pressure is set correctly so you don't blow holes through the shingles.
- Mind the temperature. If it's over 90 degrees, you'll scuff the shingles just by walking on them. If it's under 40, the adhesive strips won't seal until the next warm day, which means a stiff breeze could peel your new roof off like a banana.
- Clean the gutters. Once you’re done, the gutters will be full of old nails, shingle grit, and wood scraps. Flush them out completely or your first rainstorm will overflow and soak your foundation.
Realistically, a 1,500-square-foot roof can be done by a motivated duo in a long weekend if the tear-off is already finished. Take your time with the flashing and the starter rows. Those are the foundation of the whole system. If the first row is crooked, every row to the peak will be crooked. Chalk your lines every few courses to stay straight. It’s a hard job, but doing it yourself gives you a level of quality control that a "blow-and-go" roofing crew might skip. Keep your lines straight, your nails flush, and your ladder secure.