You’ve probably got them. Those half-rusted, crusty-rimmed metal cylinders stacked in the corner of your garage or shoved under the workbench. Maybe they’re leftovers from that "perfect" eggshell blue you painted the nursery three years ago, or perhaps they’re relics from a previous homeowner who thought "sunset ochre" was a vibe. Regardless of how they got there, figuring out how to get rid of old paint cans is a chore that most people put off because, honestly, it’s confusing. You can't just toss them in the kitchen trash. Well, you can, but if a garbage truck smashes that can and sprays wet latex across your neighbor’s driveway, you’re going to have a very bad day.
Getting it right matters.
Paint contains chemicals that don't belong in our groundwater. It’s not just about being "green" or whatever; it's about not being the person who causes a hazardous spill in the local landfill. The rules change depending on whether you’re holding a can of water-based latex or that stinky, flammable oil-based stuff. It's a bit of a process, but it’s manageable once you know the hacks.
Start by Figuring Out What You’re Actually Holding
Before you do anything, check the label. This is the most important step. If the label is gone because the can is twenty years old, smell it. Don't take a giant whiff—just a little sniff. Latex or acrylic paint (water-based) usually has a mild, slightly sweet, or plastic-like scent. Oil-based paint, often called alkyd, smells like a gas station or a chemical plant.
This distinction is everything.
In the United States, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) classifies oil-based paint as Household Hazardous Waste (HHW). You cannot, under any circumstances, let this stuff dry out and toss it in the bin. It’s flammable. It’s toxic. It’s a headache. Latex, on the other hand, is generally considered non-hazardous once it is solid. That’s the golden rule for water-based paint: it must be dry. Liquid paint is a big no-no for waste haulers because it leaks.
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The Best Ways to Handle Latex Paint
If you’ve determined you have latex paint, you have a few options that don't involve a trip to the hazardous waste center. First, see if the paint is even still good. Stir it. If it’s smooth, it’s fine. If it’s chunky like cottage cheese or smells like a locker room, it’s gone bad. Bacteria can actually grow in old paint cans, especially if they’ve been sitting in a humid garage.
Use it up or give it away
The easiest way to get rid of it? Use it. Use it as a primer for a shed, paint the inside of a closet, or let your kids go wild on some cardboard boxes in the backyard. If you don't want it, someone else might. Sites like Freecycle or Buy Nothing groups on Facebook are lifesavers here. I’ve seen people pick up half-cans of beige paint within twenty minutes of a post going live. Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore locations sometimes accept full or near-full cans, but call ahead first. They have strict standards because they have to resell the stuff.
The drying-out method
If the paint is junk, you have to dry it. If there’s only an inch or two left in the bottom, just leave the lid off. Let the sun do the work. But if the can is half-full? You’ll be waiting until 2027 for that to harden on its own.
Go to the store and buy paint hardener. It’s a powder that turns liquid paint into a thick, oatmeal-like sludge in about fifteen minutes. If you’re cheap (like me), use kitty litter. Cheap, clay-based kitty litter is the GOAT for this. Pour the litter into the can, stir it up, and wait a day. Once it’s hard and doesn’t slosh, you can usually put the can in your regular trash, though some municipalities want you to leave the lid off so the trash collector can see it’s solidified.
Quick Tip: If you have a ton of cans, don't try to dry them all in the cans. Dump the paint into a cardboard box lined with a heavy-duty trash bag, mix in the litter, and let the whole "paint brick" dry out there.
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Dealing with the Heavy Hitters: Oil-Based Paints and Stains
Oil-based paint is a different beast entirely. You cannot dry this out with kitty litter. Even if it feels dry, the chemicals remain reactive and hazardous. This is where you have to look up your local Household Hazardous Waste (HHW) drop-off schedule.
Most counties have a specific site, often near the dump or a public works building, where they take the "nasty" stuff—think car batteries, pesticides, and oil paint. Some places have a permanent drop-off; others only do it twice a year on a Saturday morning. Mark your calendar. It’s a pain, but it beats a fine or a fire.
The PaintCare Program: A Game Changer
If you live in a state like California, Colorado, Oregon, or New York (and several others), you’re in luck. There’s a non-profit called PaintCare. In these states, a small "recovery fee" is added to the price of every gallon of paint sold. In exchange, PaintCare sets up hundreds of drop-off sites at local hardware stores like Sherwin-Williams or Benjamin Moore.
You can literally just walk in with your old cans and hand them over. They take both latex and oil-based paints. It’s easily the most "human-friendly" way to handle this. You can go to their website, punch in your zip code, and find a map of spots. Just remember: they usually have a limit, like 5 gallons per visit, so don't show up with a trailer-load of 40 cans without calling first.
What About the Metal Cans Themselves?
Once the paint is gone, you’re left with the steel or plastic can. Steel is highly recyclable. If you’ve scraped the can clean (or the dried paint has peeled out like a giant rubber skin), you can often put the empty metal can in your blue recycling bin.
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Check your local guidelines, though. Some recycling centers are picky about "residue." If the inside of the can is caked in 1/4 inch of dried gunk, it might just have to go in the trash. Plastic paint pails are rarely recyclable because the type of plastic used is often contaminated by the paint resins.
Common Mistakes That’ll Get You Into Trouble
People do weird things when they’re frustrated with clutter. Please, for the love of your plumbing, never pour paint down the drain. Even if you have a utility sink and you think "it's just a little bit," latex paint will coat your pipes and eventually catch hair and debris, leading to a massive clog. If you’re on a septic system, you’re basically poisoning the bacteria that make your system work. It’s an expensive mistake.
Also, don't bury it. I’ve heard old-timers talk about digging a hole in the backyard and pouring old paint in before covering it up. That was a bad idea in 1950 and it's a worse idea now. Those chemicals leach into the soil. If you have a well, you’re eventually drinking that "sunset ochre."
Actionable Steps to Clear the Clutter Today
Stop staring at the stack and just do one of these three things right now:
- The 5-Minute Search: Go to the PaintCare website or your county’s waste management page. See if there is a drop-off site within five miles. If there is, put the cans in a cardboard box in your trunk right now.
- The Kitty Litter Test: If you know it's latex and there's only a little bit left, go buy the cheapest bag of clay cat litter you can find. Pour it in tonight. By tomorrow evening, those cans are ready for the trash.
- The "Friend" Audit: Take a photo of the cans where the labels are visible. Send it to that one friend who is always DIY-ing or post it on a local community board. People love free stuff, even if it's half a gallon of "Swiss Coffee" white.
Getting rid of old paint isn't about one giant "cleaning day." It’s about knowing the difference between a water-based product you can dry out and a chemical product that needs professional handling. Clear the space, protect the water, and finally get your workbench back.