It starts with a tiny scratch. Then another. Before you know it, your dog is thumping their leg against the floor at 3:00 AM like a possessed drummer. You look closer and see it: red skin, thinning hair, and that unmistakable "musty" smell. Honestly, it’s heartbreaking. If you’re trying to figure out how to get rid of mites on dog companions, you aren’t just looking for a quick spray; you’re looking for a way to give your best friend their life back. Mites are microscopic, but the misery they cause is massive.
Most people think "mites" are just one thing. They aren't. Dealing with Sarcoptes scabiei (the ones that burrow and itch like crazy) is a completely different ballgame than handling Demodex canis (the ones that live in hair follicles). If you treat the wrong one with the wrong method, you’re basically throwing money into a black hole while your dog continues to suffer.
Why "Wait and See" is a terrible strategy for dog mites
Mites don't just go away. They breed. A single female sarcoptic mite can lay dozens of eggs under your dog's skin. These eggs hatch, the larvae crawl out, and the cycle repeats until your dog's immune system is screaming for help. You’ve probably seen those "natural" remedies online suggesting lemon juice or apple cider vinegar. While those might make your dog smell like a salad, they won't kill a deep-seated infestation. You need a real plan.
Different mites require different strikes. Sarcoptic mange—often called "scabies"—is highly contagious. It’s the one you get from the dog park or a stray. Demodectic mange is a bit weirder. Most dogs actually have Demodex mites on them right now, but a healthy immune system keeps them in check. When the immune system dips, the mites throw a party. That's why "how to get rid of mites on dog" usually starts with a trip to a vet like Dr. Jerry Klein or the experts at the American Kennel Club (AKC) to figure out exactly which microscopic monster you’re fighting.
The heavy hitters: Medical treatments that actually work
Forget the old-school "motor oil" myths. That’s dangerous and toxic. Today, we have options that are way more effective and infinitely safer. The primary weapon in a modern vet's arsenal is the isoxazoline class of drugs. You probably know them by brand names like Bravecto, Simparica, or NexGard.
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These aren't just for fleas and ticks. They have revolutionized how we handle mites. A single chewable tablet can often clear up a sarcoptic mange infestation in a few weeks because it enters the bloodstream and kills the mites as they feed. It’s elegant and, quite frankly, a lifesaver for dogs that used to have to endure caustic chemical dips like Amitraz (Mitaban).
- Ivermectin: This is the old reliable, but it’s tricky. You can’t just guess the dose. Some breeds, especially Collies, Australian Shepherds, and Shelties, have a genetic mutation called the MDR1 mutation. If you give Ivermectin to an MDR1-positive dog, it can be fatal.
- Selamectin (Revolution): This is a topical "spot-on" treatment. It’s great for Sarcoptic mites and ear mites (Otodectes cynotis). You squeeze it on the back of the neck, and it absorbs into the skin.
- Medicated Shampoos: Don't expect a shampoo to cure the mites alone. Shampoos containing benzoyl peroxide are used to "flush" the hair follicles. It prepares the skin so the other medications can work better. It also helps wash away the crusty scales and secondary bacterial infections that usually hitch a ride on a mite infestation.
How to get rid of mites on dog bedding and your home
If your dog has sarcoptic mange, your house is technically "hot." While these mites prefer dogs, they aren't picky and will happily bite you, causing "falsely" itchy red bumps on your arms or waist. They can’t complete their life cycle on humans, but they’ll make your life a living nightmare for a week or two.
You have to be aggressive with the environment. Wash all bedding—yours and the dog's—in the hottest water the fabric can stand. Dry it on high heat. If there’s a favorite plush toy that can’t be washed, it might be time for that toy to go to the great toy box in the sky. Vacuuming is your best friend here. Vacuum the rugs, the couch, and the car seats. Throw the vacuum bag or the canister contents directly into the outside trash immediately. If you leave it in the kitchen trash, the mites can crawl back out. Seriously.
The "Mange" misconception: Not all hair loss is mites
Sometimes you think it’s mites, but it’s actually a fungal infection like Ringworm or even a thyroid issue. This is why a "skin scraping" is so vital. A vet takes a scalpel blade—don't worry, it doesn't hurt much—and gently scrapes the top layers of skin until it’s just slightly pink. They put that on a slide with some mineral oil and look under the microscope.
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Seeing the mites is the only way to be 100% sure. If the vet finds Demodex, they’ll often ask about your dog's diet and stress levels. Since Demodex is an opportunistic infestation, it usually means something else is weakening your dog. Maybe it’s a new puppy in the house causing stress, or perhaps a low-quality kibble that isn't providing enough zinc or Vitamin E for skin health.
Deep-cleaning the "Itch" cycle
Healing the skin is just as important as killing the bugs. Once the mites start dying, they release toxins that can actually make the dog itch more for a few days. This is the "extinction burst." To get through this, your vet might prescribe a short course of steroids or an anti-itch medication like Apoquel or Cytopoint injections.
- Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Start adding high-quality fish oil to their food. It helps rebuild the skin barrier that the mites destroyed.
- Probiotics: If your dog is on antibiotics for a secondary skin infection, their gut health is going to take a hit. A good probiotic helps keep the immune system strong enough to fight off any remaining mites.
- Quarantine: If you have multiple pets, keep the "itchy" one isolated. Sarcoptic mange spreads faster than gossip in a small town.
Specific steps for immediate relief
If you’re staring at a miserable dog right now, here is exactly what you should do to start the process of how to get rid of mites on dog problems effectively.
First, stop the "home remedies" involving vinegar or oils. They often sting raw skin and make the dog fearful of being handled. Instead, get a pair of gloves and do a thorough check of the "hinges" of the body—the armpits, the groin, and the edges of the ears. If you see yellow crusting on the ear edges, it’s almost certainly Sarcoptic mange.
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Second, book the vet appointment but ask for a "skin scrape and cytology." This ensures they check for both the mites and the bacteria/yeast that usually grow in the damaged skin.
Third, start a laundry marathon. Use a detergent with no dyes or perfumes, as the dog's skin is already hyper-sensitive. Clean the crates with a diluted bleach solution (1 part bleach to 32 parts water), ensuring it's completely dry and aired out before the dog goes back in.
Lastly, stay the course. Most people stop treatment the moment the hair starts growing back. That is a massive mistake. You usually need to continue treatment for at least four weeks after the first clear skin scrape to ensure every single egg has hatched and been killed. If you stop early, the survivors will come back with a vengeance, and they might even be more resistant to the meds next time.
Keep the dog's environment low-stress. High cortisol levels from stress can suppress the immune system, making it much harder for the body to repair the "mange" damage. Provide plenty of fresh water and consider a temporary switch to a limited-ingredient diet if their skin seems reactive to their current food. This isn't just about bugs; it's about total skin recovery.
Immediate Action Plan:
- Isolate the dog from other pets immediately to prevent cross-contamination.
- Schedule a vet visit for a definitive diagnosis via skin scraping.
- Administer a veterinarian-approved isoxazoline (like Bravecto or Simparica) if the vet confirms it is safe for your specific breed.
- Wash all household fabrics in 60°C (140°F) water and dry on high heat.
- Supplement with Wild Alaskan Salmon Oil to support the lipid barrier of the skin during the healing phase.