Let's be real for a second. Trying to learn how to french braid hair two sides of your own head usually starts with high hopes and ends with your arms aching, hair tangled, and a result that looks more like a bird's nest than a sleek Pinterest photo. I've been there. My first attempt resulted in a lopsided mess that I tried to hide under a beanie for eight hours. But once you get the rhythm down, it's basically like riding a bike—your hands just sort of take over.
Double French braids, often called pigtail braids or boxer braids (though technically boxer braids are often Dutch braids), are the holy grail of hairstyles. They keep your hair out of your face during a workout, look cute for a brunch date, and—my personal favorite—create perfect waves when you take them out the next morning.
Preparation Is Half the Battle
Most people just grab a brush and start braiding. That’s a mistake. If your hair is squeaky clean, it’s going to be slippery and impossible to grip. Professional stylists like Chris Appleton often suggest working with "second-day hair" because the natural oils provide a bit of grit. If you just washed it, spray in some dry shampoo or a sea salt spray to give the strands some "tooth."
You’ll need a few essentials. Grab a rat-tail comb. Seriously. You can't get a straight center part with your fingers or a regular paddle brush. You also need two small elastics—the clear plastic ones work best—and maybe some styling cream if you have flyaways.
The Perfect Part
Getting the part right is the foundation of learning how to french braid hair two sides effectively. Start at the bridge of your nose and draw the comb straight back to the nape of your neck. If it’s crooked, the whole look feels off. Secure one side with a clip or a hair tie so it stays out of the way while you work on the first half. It’s annoying when stray hairs from the "inactive" side get sucked into your braid.
Diving Into the First Side
Start at the very front. Grab a small section of hair near your hairline—about an inch wide. Divide this into three equal strands. Let’s call them Left, Middle, and Right.
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Cross the Right strand over the Middle. Now, the Right is the new Middle. Cross the Left strand over the Middle. This is just a regular braid. It’s the starting point. Now comes the "French" part.
Before you cross the Right strand over again, pick up a small, thin slice of loose hair from the right side of your head and add it to that Right strand. Now cross that thickened strand over the Middle. Do the same on the left. Pick up a thin slice of hair, add it to the Left strand, and cross it over.
Keep your hands close to your scalp. This is the secret. If you pull the hair away from your head while braiding, the braid will be loose and saggy. You want to feel your knuckles grazing your skin. It's awkward at first. Your arms will get tired. Just push through.
Dealing With the "Blind Spot"
The hardest part of figuring out how to french braid hair two sides is the transition from the top of your head to the back. This is where most people lose tension. When you reach the curve of your head (around the top of your ear), you need to change your hand position.
Instead of holding your hands "palms down" over the top of your head, flip them so your palms are facing your scalp. It feels weird. It’s a bit of a finger gymnastics move. But it allows you to keep the braid tight against the nape of your neck.
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Continue adding hair until you run out of loose sections. Once all the hair is incorporated, finish with a standard three-strand braid all the way to the ends. Secure it with an elastic. Take a breath. Shake your arms out. Now you have to do the whole thing again on the other side.
Symmetry: The Great Equalizer
The second side is always harder because your brain is already tired, or because one side of your body is naturally more dominant. If you’re right-handed, the left side of your head might feel like you're trying to write with your toes.
Try to match the angle. If you started the first braid an inch from your part, make sure the second one starts an inch from the part too. I like to check the mirror constantly. Check the side view. Check the back.
Avoiding the Lumpy Back
A common issue when learning how to french braid hair two sides is the "pouch" at the nape of the neck. This happens because people start looking down as they reach the bottom. Don't do that. Keep your head level or even tilt it back slightly as you reach the base of your neck. This keeps the tension high and prevents that weird saggy loop that happens right above the hair tie.
Pro Tips for Different Hair Textures
Not all hair is created equal. If you have curly or coily hair, you might not even need hair ties at the ends; the texture often holds itself. However, you’ll definitely want a moisturizing leave-in conditioner to prevent breakage while you're sectioning.
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For fine, thin hair, the braids can look a bit "skimpy." Here’s a trick: "pancaking." Once the braid is finished and secured, gently tug at the outer loops of the braid to widen them. It creates the illusion of much thicker hair. Just don't pull too hard or you'll ruin the structure.
- Short Hair: If you have a bob or lob, use smaller sections. The smaller the sections, the more likely the short layers will stay tucked into the braid.
- Layered Hair: Use a light-hold hairspray or wax stick on the sections before you braid them. This "glues" the ends of the layers into the braid so they don't poke out like porcupine quills.
- Dirty Hair: If your hair is oily, lean into it. A "wet look" French braid is very high-fashion and incredibly practical.
Common Mistakes Everyone Makes
Honestly, the biggest mistake is overthinking it. Your fingers have a memory of their own. If you stop halfway through to look in the mirror and analyze which strand goes where, you’ll probably get confused.
Another mistake? Grabbing sections that are too big. If you grab huge chunks of hair, the braid will look chunky and will likely fall out faster. Aim for sections about half an inch thick.
If you mess up, don't unravel the whole thing unless it's a total disaster. A little bump can often be tucked away with a bobby pin. Perfection is the enemy of a good braid. Even professional stylists like Jen Atkin acknowledge that a slightly "undone" look is often more stylish than something perfectly clinical.
Making the Style Last
If you want these braids to last through a sleep session or a heavy workout, use a "setting" product. A firm-hold hairspray applied while the hair is still slightly damp from styling cream works wonders. For sleeping, wear a silk bonnet or use a silk pillowcase. It reduces the friction that causes those fuzzy flyaways.
When you finally take the braids out, don't just rip the elastics off. Cut them with a small pair of scissors to avoid snapping your ends. Shake out your hair, use a bit of dry shampoo at the roots for volume, and you've got a second hairstyle—crimped waves—ready to go.
Actionable Steps for Success
- Start with "Grip": Apply a texturizing spray or wait until day two after washing to ensure your hair isn't too slippery.
- Section Rigorously: Use a rat-tail comb for a clean center part and secure the side you isn't working on.
- Tight Tension: Keep your hands touching your scalp at all times to avoid sagging.
- Flip Your Grip: Change your hand orientation once you pass the curve of your head to maintain control at the nape.
- Seal the Deal: Use a tiny amount of hair oil or serum on your fingertips while braiding to keep the strands smooth.