Let’s be honest for a second. Most split-level homes built between the 1950s and the 1980s look like a collection of mismatched boxes stacked by a giant who didn't really care about curb appeal. You know the look. It’s that awkward "raised ranch" or "tri-level" silhouette where the front door sits halfway between the basement and the main floor, usually hiding behind a set of tiny, cramped concrete steps. If you own one, you’ve probably spent a Saturday afternoon staring at the siding from the curb, wondering if a simple coat of paint can actually save it.
The short answer? Yes, but paint is rarely enough to fix the fundamental "split level problem."
A successful split level exterior update isn't just about picking a trendy color from the Sherwin-Williams catalog. It’s about visual correction. These houses are notorious for having "heavy" tops and "weak" bottoms, or vice versa, depending on where the garage is tucked. To make these homes look modern, you have to trick the eye into seeing better proportions. We’re talking about breaking up those massive, flat walls of vinyl siding and giving that sunken front door a reason to exist. It’s complicated. It’s rewarding. And if you do it wrong, you just end up with a very expensive, brightly colored box.
Why Split Levels Look Weird (and How to Lean Into It)
Architecturally, the split-level was a response to sloping lots and the post-war desire for separated living zones. You have the "noisy" zone (kitchen/living), the "quiet" zone (bedrooms), and the "messy" zone (the lower-level family room or garage).
The problem is the exterior rarely reflects that internal logic in a way that looks good. Most people complain about the "squat" appearance. Because the house is sliced into multiple levels, the rooflines often feel too low, or the windows are awkwardly small on the lower half to accommodate the foundation line.
Stop trying to make it look like a farmhouse.
Seriously. The biggest mistake homeowners make right now is slapping white board-and-batten siding and black window frames on a 1974 split-level and calling it "Modern Farmhouse." It usually looks like the house is wearing a costume that doesn't fit. Instead, the most successful updates embrace the mid-century roots or go full "Modern Craftsmanship."
The "Rule of Three" for Siding
If your house is one giant sheet of beige siding, it looks massive and boring. You need texture.
James Hardie, the fiber cement giant, often highlights projects where mixing materials saves the facade. Think about using traditional horizontal lap siding on the main body, but switching to cedar shingles or vertical panels on the "bump out" section. This creates a vertical break. It stops the eye from sliding across the house and noticing how wide and flat it is.
I’ve seen houses where just adding a section of stone veneer to the lowest level—specifically the part that sits closest to the ground—grounds the entire structure. It gives it a "base." Without that, the house looks like it’s floating on the lawn.
The Front Porch Transformation: More Than Just a Step
The "Mid-Level Entry" is the bane of the split-level's existence. You walk in, and you’re immediately faced with a choice: go up or go down. Externally, this translates to a front door that feels like an afterthought.
To fix this, you have to build a "destination."
A tiny 4x4 concrete landing doesn't cut it. To truly execute a split level exterior update, you need a substantial porch or a portico. By extending a roofline out over the front door, you create a new focal point. This draws the eye away from the lopsided garage or the uneven window heights.
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Architectural firms like Brick & Batten, who specialize in virtual exterior design, almost always recommend widening the front walkway. If your path to the door is 3 feet wide, it looks stingy. Make it 5 or 6 feet. Use bluestone or poured concrete with clean edges. When the approach to the house feels grand, the house itself feels more expensive.
Lighting is your secret weapon
Don't just stick a single "builder grade" lantern next to the door. Scale up. If your door is 80 inches tall, your light fixture should be at least 1/4th or 1/3rd of that height. It sounds huge, but small lights disappear on a multi-story facade. Use "up-lighting" on the trees in the yard to create depth at night, so the house isn't just a glowing rectangle in the dark.
Windows: The Eyes of the Home
Old split levels usually have those sliding aluminum windows that are about as energy-efficient as a screen door. Replacing them is the single most expensive part of a split level exterior update, but also the most impactful.
Here is what people get wrong: they keep the same window sizes.
If you have the budget, enlarge the windows on the main living level. Floor-to-ceiling glass on a split level can lean into that "Mid-Century Modern" vibe that is so popular right now. It connects the indoors to the outdoors. If you can't change the rough opening size, at least change the "grille" pattern.
- Avoid: Tiny colonial grids (too busy).
- Try: Simple 1-over-1 windows or "Prairie" style grilles that stay at the edges of the glass.
- Color: Bronze or Charcoal frames often look better than stark black on older brick.
Dealing with the "Garage Problem"
On many tri-levels, the garage is integrated into the lower half of the house. It’s the first thing you see. If you have a plain, white, dented metal garage door, you’re basically telling the neighborhood that your car lives in a better room than you do.
Upgrade to a carriage-style door or something with windows. Windows in a garage door break up the "solid wall" effect. If the rest of the house is siding, a wood-look garage door (even if it’s steel or composite) adds a much-needed organic element. It warms up the coldness of the architecture.
Real World Example: The 1968 "Brown Box"
I recently looked at a project in the Midwest where the homeowners were desperate. Their house was a split-entry (high ranch) with ugly, variegated orange brick on the bottom and rotting T1-11 wood siding on top.
They didn't have $100,000 for a full remodel.
What they did was smart. They painted the brick. I know, "never paint brick" is a common rule, but when the brick is a dated, muddy orange, painting it a deep, charcoal grey (like Benjamin Moore "Iron Mountain") can make the house look 30 years younger. They paired that with light grey horizontal siding on top and a natural wood front door.
The contrast was the key. By making the bottom darker than the top, the house looked "rooted" in the landscape. It no longer looked top-heavy. They spent about $15,000 total, including a new DIY-installed paver walkway, and the appraisal value jumped significantly more than the investment.
Landscaping as Architecture
You can't talk about a split level exterior update without mentioning the dirt.
Because split levels have varying foundation heights, you often have a lot of exposed concrete "knee walls." You need to hide these. But don't just plant a row of meatballs (those perfectly round boxwoods).
Use layered planting.
- The Back Row: Tall evergreens to mask the foundation.
- The Middle Row: Deciduous shrubs for color and texture.
- The Front: Perennials and groundcover that spill over the edges of your new, wider walkway.
This creates a visual "ramp" that leads the eye up to the front door. It softens the harsh, angular lines of the house. If you have a steep slope in the front (common with splits), use retaining walls made of natural stone rather than just grass. It adds a "built" feel that suggests the house was designed for the lot, not just dropped onto it.
Common Pitfalls to Avoid
It’s easy to go overboard.
Don't add "faux" Victorian details. No ginger-breading, no ornate corbels. Split levels are inherently geometric and somewhat "masculine" in their lines. Adding dainty, curvy details makes them look confused.
Watch out for the "Mullet" effect—business in the front, party in the back. A lot of people spend all their money on the front facade and leave the sides and back in the original 1970s siding. On a split level, because the levels are offset, you can often see the side profile very clearly from the street. You have to carry your design language all the way around.
Also, be careful with shutters. Most split-level windows are too wide for shutters to look "real." If a shutter couldn't actually close and cover the window, it shouldn't be there. Stick to wide trim (4-6 inches) around the windows instead. It looks cleaner and more modern.
Making the Plan
Before you swing a hammer or buy a gallon of paint, take a high-resolution photo of your house. Print it out. Or better yet, put it into a basic iPad drawing app.
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Trace the main lines. Where are the biggest "empty" spaces? That’s where you need texture. Where is your eye drawn first? If it’s the trash cans next to the garage, you need a privacy screen.
A split level exterior update is a marathon, not a sprint. You can phase it.
- Phase 1: Paint and Lighting. Immediate gratification.
- Phase 2: The "Entry Experience." Porch, door, and walkway.
- Phase 3: Siding and Windows. The big-ticket items.
Actionable Next Steps
If you’re ready to stop cringing when you pull into the driveway, here is exactly where to start:
- Audit your "Texture Map": Look at your house. If it’s 90% one material, identify one section (like an entryway or a bump-out) that you can change to a contrasting material like stone, wood, or vertical siding.
- Kill the "Skinny" Walkway: Go outside with a can of marking paint. Outline a walkway that is at least 5 feet wide, curving gently toward the door. See how much better that feels?
- Test Dark Colors: Buy three samples of "moody" colors—dark greens, navy, or charcoals. Paint them on a 2x2 board and lean them against your current siding. Most split levels look better with more "weight" in their color palette.
- Check the Trim: If your window trim is the same color as your siding, your house looks "melted." Plan to paint or replace trim in a contrasting color to "pop" the architecture.
- Budget for the Door: Don't buy a cheap door at a big-box store. Save up for a high-quality wood or fiberglass door with a modern aesthetic. It’s the "handshake" of your home.
Your house doesn't have to be the neighborhood eyesore. It has "good bones"—it just needs a better outfit. By focusing on proportions and materials rather than just hiding the house behind bushes, you can turn a dated tri-level into a standout piece of modern real estate.