You probably haven't thought about pigtails since you were six. Honestly, most people haven't. But look at any red carpet or high-fashion editorial lately, and you’ll see they are back in a massive way. It isn't just about nostalgia. It's about a specific kind of effortless, cool-girl aesthetic that works for the gym, a coffee date, or even a wedding if you do it right. Learning how to do pigtails that actually look adult and intentional—rather than accidental—is a skill. It requires more than just two hair ties and a prayer.
Most people mess up the parting. They just drag a comb down the middle and hope for the best. That’s why it looks crooked. Or they pull the hair too tight, which makes their forehead look huge. We’ve all been there.
The trick is the tension.
If you want that sleek, "clean girl" look popularized by influencers like Sofia Richie Grainge, you need product. If you want the messy, boho vibe seen on Pinterest, you need texture. You can't just wing it. To get it right, you have to understand your hair's natural fall and how to manipulate it without causing breakage.
The Prep Work Most People Skip
Don't start with soaking wet hair. Just don't. Hair is at its most fragile when wet, stretching like a rubber band before it snaps. If you try to pull it into tight sections, you’re basically asking for split ends. Start with dry hair or, at the very least, 90% dry.
If your hair is too clean, it’s going to be slippery. It'll slide right out of the elastic. Use a bit of dry shampoo or a texturizing spray. This gives the hair "grit." Experts like Chris Appleton often use a light pomade or wax to tame flyaways before even touching a comb.
You’ll need a few specific tools:
🔗 Read more: Dr Dennis Gross C+ Collagen Brighten Firm Vitamin C Serum Explained (Simply)
- A rat-tail comb (the kind with the long, skinny handle). This is non-negotiable for a straight part.
- Clear elastics or snag-free ties.
- A boar bristle brush for smoothing.
- Two clips to keep sections separate.
How to Do Pigtails with a Perfect Part
The center part is the foundation. If this is off, the whole look is ruined. Period.
Start at the bridge of your nose. Use the tail of your comb and trace a line straight back through the center of your scalp. Here’s the secret: don’t try to do it in one long stroke. Do it in three short movements. Check the mirror. Adjust. Trace from the crown down to the nape of the neck.
Once you have two sections, clip one side out of the way. Seriously. If you don't clip it, stray hairs from the left side will migrate to the right side, and you'll end up with a tangled mess in the back that you can't see but everyone else can.
Height Matters
Where you place the pigtails changes your entire face shape. High pigtails—sitting right on top of the head—give a very "Harley Quinn" or 90s rave vibe. It’s bold. It lifts the face. Low pigtails, resting at the nape of the neck, are much more sophisticated and "French girl" chic. Mid-height pigtails? Those are the ones that usually look like you’re heading to primary school. Avoid the middle ground unless you’re going for a very specific sporty look.
Execution and Tension
Pick up the first section. Smooth it with your brush. If you want a sleek look, use a tiny bit of hair gel or styling cream on the roots. Pull the hair toward the spot where you want the base of the pigtail to sit.
Keep your chin up.
💡 You might also like: Double Sided Ribbon Satin: Why the Pro Crafters Always Reach for the Good Stuff
If you look down while tying a low pigtail, you’ll create a weird "bubble" of loose hair at the nape once you stand up straight. Look forward. Hold the hair firm but don't strangle your scalp. Wrap the elastic around at least three times.
Now, do the other side. This is where people struggle with symmetry. Use your ears as a landmark. If the left pigtail is an inch above your ear, the right one needs to be too. Check the back with a hand mirror. It’s better to spend two minutes checking now than to realize you’re lopsided halfway through your day.
Dealing with Thickness and Texture
If you have thick hair, those tiny clear elastics will snap. It’s inevitable. Use the thicker, fabric-covered ties first to get the hold, then maybe cover them with a ribbon or a piece of hair.
For curly or coily hair (types 3C to 4C), the process is slightly different. You might want to do this on "stretched" hair to show off the length, or embrace the volume of your natural curls. Use a edge control gel around the hairline to give it that crisp finish. Tracee Ellis Ross often showcases how volume can make pigtails look like a high-fashion statement rather than a simple hairstyle.
The "Pancake" Technique
If you’re doing braided pigtails—often called Dutch braids or boxer braids—you have to pancake them. This basically means gently pulling at the edges of the braid loops to make them look wider and fuller. It takes a braid from looking "tight and thin" to "thick and effortless." Just be careful not to pull the whole thing apart. Tiny tugs.
Elevating the Look
How do you make how to do pigtails look like an adult style? You hide the elastics.
📖 Related: Dining room layout ideas that actually work for real life
Take a small sliver of hair from the underside of the pigtail. Wrap it around the hair tie until the plastic is completely covered. Tuck the end into the elastic or secure it with a small bobby pin underneath. It’s a tiny detail, but it changes everything. It makes the style look "finished."
Another trick? Face-framing pieces. Pull out a few wispy strands around your temples and ears. Use a curling iron to give them a very slight bend—not a ringlet, just a soft wave. This softens the look and prevents that "scraped back" harshness that doesn't flatter everyone.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- The "Mullet" Back: This happens when you don't part the hair all the way to the bottom. You end up with a clump of hair in the center of your neck that isn't in either pigtail. Always use a mirror to check the back.
- Uneven Tension: If one side is tighter than the other, one eye might actually look more lifted than the other. It’s a temporary facelift you didn't ask for. Keep the pressure consistent.
- Wrong Products: Using heavy oil on fine hair before doing pigtails will make them look greasy and thin. Use a volumizing mousse instead.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Attempt
Forget what you did in grade school. This is about geometry and texture.
Start by washing your hair the night before. Second-day hair has the perfect amount of natural oil to hold a style without being "slippery." Grab a rat-tail comb and a mirror.
First, decide on your vibe. Are you going for the sleek, low-slung look for a professional yet trendy aesthetic? Or are you doing high, voluminous pigtails for a festival or a workout? Once you decide, map out your part. Use a light-hold hairspray as you go to catch those tiny "baby hairs" that usually stick up along the part line.
If you’re worried about looking too young, keep the pigtails low and add a sophisticated accessory like a velvet ribbon or a gold hair cuff. Avoid neon scrunchies unless that’s specifically the 90s throwback look you’re aiming for.
Practice the "wrap-around" method to hide your elastics. It’s the single easiest way to level up the style. Once the hair is secured, give your head a little shake. If it feels loose, add another hair tie. If it feels like a headache is coming on, loosen it. Beauty shouldn't actually hurt.
Finally, mist the finished look with a shine spray. This reflects light and makes the hair look healthy and intentional. You aren't just wearing pigtails because you didn't have time to wash your hair; you're wearing them because they look great.