You’re holding the shears. Your palms are sweatier than they should be. The client is looking in the mirror with that "I trust you but also I’m terrified" expression. Honestly, learning how to do hairdressing isn't just about memorizing angles or knowing which volume of developer won't melt someone’s hair off. It’s a weird, beautiful mix of high-stakes chemistry, physical stamina, and being an amateur therapist. Most people think it’s just "snip snip" and you’re done. It isn't.
Hair is a fabric. But unlike cotton or silk, it grows, it breathes, and it has a memory. If you mess up a sleeve on a sewing machine, you buy more fabric. If you over-process a client's highlights, you’re looking at a legal or emotional disaster. Understanding the stakes is the first step toward actually being good at this.
The Anatomy of the Cut (And Why Your Hands Ache)
Let’s talk about posture. Seriously. If you want to do hairdressing for more than three years without needing a chiropractor on speed dial, you have to stop slouching. Your elbows should stay down. Your feet should be shoulder-width apart. It feels robotic at first, but it saves your career.
When you start cutting, everything comes down to elevation and tension. Think of elevation as the angle you hold the hair away from the head. Zero degrees? That's a blunt line. One length. 90 degrees? Now you’re getting into layers. But here is where people fail: tension. If you pull the hair too tight, especially around the ears or the hairline, the hair will "jump" when it dries. You’ll end up with a hole in your line. It’s devastating. You have to learn to let the hair live where it wants to fall.
Sectioning is your map. Don't be the person who tries to "wing it" with giant chunks of hair. If you can’t see your guide—that little bit of hair from the previous section that tells you where to cut—stop. Put the scissors down. Re-section. You’re lost.
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Color Theory is Basically Magic (and Math)
Coloring hair is where the science gets real. You aren't just painting a wall. You are dealing with the Underlying Pigment. Every human being, whether they are a natural blonde or have hair as black as midnight, has warm tones underneath. When you lift hair with bleach (lightener), you're peeling back the onion layers of color.
- Black goes to Red.
- Dark Brown goes to Red-Orange.
- Medium Brown goes to Orange.
- Light Brown goes to Gold.
- Blonde goes to Pale Yellow.
If you try to put a cool ash blonde over hair that is still in the "orange" stage, you get mud. Or worse, green. This is why the Color Wheel is your Bible. To cancel out orange, you need blue. To cancel out yellow, you need violet. It sounds simple, but when you’re standing at the backbar mixing bowls, the pressure is on.
I’ve seen people try to rush the process. They use a 40-volume developer because they want it fast. Don't do that. High volume developer is like a blowtorch; low volume is like a slow-cooked roast. Low and slow almost always results in shinier, healthier hair that actually holds the color.
The Secret Language of Consultations
You can be the best technical cutter in the world, but if you don't know how to talk to the person in your chair, you will fail. People are terrible at describing what they want. They say "just a trim" when they mean "change my entire life." They say "honey blonde" while pointing at a picture of platinum silver.
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You have to be a detective. Ask them how much time they spend on their hair in the morning. If they say "five minutes," don't give them a high-maintenance shag that requires a round brush and twenty minutes of blow-drying. They will hate it, and they will hate you.
Show, don't just tell. Use your fingers to point to exactly where the length will fall. "Here? At the collarbone?" Get a verbal "yes" before the first clip comes out. It’s about managing expectations as much as it is about moving the shears.
Chemical Safety: Not Just a Suggestion
Let’s get real about the stuff in the bottles. Perm solution, relaxers, and lighteners are caustic. According to OSHA guidelines and standard cosmetology training (like the Milady or Pivot Point curriculums), contact dermatitis is one of the leading reasons stylists leave the industry. Wear gloves. Always. Even if you think you’re too "pro" for them.
The pH scale is also vital. Human hair sits around a 4.5 to 5.5. Most chemicals we use are alkaline, which opens the cuticle. If you don't bring that pH back down with an acidic rinse or sealer, the hair stays "open," feels like straw, and the color washes out in three days.
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The Tools of the Trade
Stop buying cheap shears from the drugstore. Just stop. Professional shears are balanced. They are made of high-grade Japanese or German steel. Using dull scissors doesn't just make your job harder; it actually crushes the hair shaft instead of slicing it, leading to split ends almost immediately.
- Shears: 5.5 to 6 inches is the sweet spot for most.
- Thinning Shears: Use these sparingly. Over-thinning is the easiest way to make a haircut look "cheap."
- Clips: You need more than you think. Get the "alligator" style that can hold thick sections.
- Combs: Carbon fiber combs won't melt if they touch a flat iron. Worth the extra few bucks.
Why "How to Do Hairdressing" is a Lifelong Practice
The industry changes every six months. In the 90s, it was the "Rachel." In the 2010s, it was the Ombré. Now, it's all about "lived-in color" and "curtain bangs." If you stop learning, you become the stylist who only knows how to do one haircut. That’s the death of a career.
Follow educators like Vidal Sassoon (the foundation of geometry in hair) or modern masters like Guy Tang for color or Chris Appleton for styling. Watch how they move. Watch how they section. But also, look at the mistakes. Sometimes the "mistakes" in a salon lead to the next big trend, like the messy bun or salt-and-pepper blending.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Stylist
If you're serious about mastering this, you can't just read about it. You need to get your hands dirty.
- Get a Mannequin Head: Buy a high-quality human hair mannequin. Practice your 400-degree flat iron curls and your 90-degree layers on something that doesn't scream or sue you.
- Master the Blowout: Most clients judge a haircut by the finish. If you can give a world-class, bouncy blowout, you can hide a lot of minor technical flaws while you're still learning.
- Shadow a Pro: Find a salon that does the work you admire. Offer to sweep hair or fold towels just to be in the room. You learn more by watching a master handle a "difficult" client than you ever will in a textbook.
- Learn Your Ingredients: Start reading the back of the shampoo bottles. Understand the difference between a sulfate and a silicone. When a client asks why their hair is dry, you should be able to explain the science, not just recite a marketing script.
- Practice Finger Dexterity: Spin your shears. Learn to palm your comb and shears at the same time. This isn't just for show; it keeps your tools safe and your workflow fast.
Hairdressing is a trade. It’s a craft. It’s exhausting. You’ll go home with hair in your socks and a sore lower back. But when that client looks in the mirror and genuinely glows because they feel beautiful? There isn't a better feeling in the world. Just keep your sections clean and your shears sharp. Everything else comes with time.