Let's be real for a second. Most of us have spent way too long staring at a TikTok or a 15-second Reel thinking, "Yeah, I can definitely do that," only to end up looking like we’ve got a massive black eye three minutes later. It’s frustrating. The crease cut—or the cut crease, as most of us call it when we're actually buying the concealer—is one of those techniques that feels like it belongs exclusively to the realm of drag queens and professional editorial artists. But honestly? It’s just geometry.
If you’ve ever wondered how to do crease cut looks that actually stay crisp throughout a dinner date or a long shift, you’ve probably realized that your eye shape is the biggest hurdle. Most tutorials are filmed by people with massive, flat eyelids. If you have hooded eyes or a deep-set socket, following those "one-size-fits-all" steps is a recipe for disaster. The product transfers. The line gets lost. You blink once and your hard work is smeared halfway to your eyebrow.
The trick isn't just about having a steady hand. It’s about understanding the "negative space" of your eye. You aren't just painting a line; you are literally redefining where your eyelid ends and your brow bone begins. It is an optical illusion, plain and simple.
Why Your Eye Shape Changes Everything
Before you even touch a brush, you have to look in the mirror. Look straight ahead. Don't lift your eyebrows. Most people make the mistake of applying their makeup while stretching their face into weird contortions. Then, when they relax their face, the "cut" disappears into a fold of skin. This is the "hooded eye" trap.
If your eyes are hooded, you actually have to draw your crease above your natural fold. It feels wrong. It feels like you're coloring outside the lines. But when you open your eyes normally, that "fake" crease sits exactly where it needs to be to give you that wide-eyed, snatched look. Professional artists like Hung Vanngo often talk about working with the "open eye" method. You map out the highest point of the arch while looking directly at yourself, not while pulling your lid taut.
Deep-set eyes have the opposite problem. You already have a natural shadow. If you go too dark in the crease, you end up looking sunken and tired. For you, the cut crease is about using light colors—shimmers, bright mattes, or stark whites—to "pull" the lid forward. You’re playing with light and shadow to balance the depth of your skull structure.
The Tools You’re Probably Missing
You can't do this with a fluffy blending brush. You just can't. If you try to how to do crease cut styles with a big, round brush, you’ll get a smoky eye instead. Not bad, but not what we’re going for here.
You need a "pencil brush" or a very small, tapered blending brush for the initial shadow placement. Think tiny. Precise. Then, the real MVP: the flat synthetic concealer brush. This is the tool that "cuts" the shadow. Synthetic bristles are crucial because they don't soak up the cream or concealer like natural hair does. They leave a sharp, wet edge that acts as a physical barrier for the next layer of shadow.
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And please, use a primer. Or at least a very thick, high-coverage concealer like Tarte Shape Tape or the Kryolan TV Paint Stick. You need something with a lot of pigment that sets quickly. If your base is too oily, the shadow you put on top will turn into mud within an hour.
Step-by-Step: The Actual Process
First, lay down your transition shade. This should be a few shades darker than your skin tone. Sweep it through the socket, but keep it blown out and soft. This is the "background" of your art.
Now, the scary part. Take a darker shadow—maybe a deep brown, plum, or even black if you’re feeling brave—and trace the arc of your socket. Again, if you have hooded eyes, go slightly higher. Don't worry if it looks a bit messy on the bottom side of the line. We’re going to erase that later. Blend the top edge of this dark line upward so it fades into your transition color. The bottom edge should remain relatively defined.
Here is the "pro" hack for the actual cut:
Put a small dot of concealer on the center of your lash line. Now, look up at the ceiling and blink. When you look back down, that concealer will have transferred to a spot on your upper lid. That is your "high water mark." That is exactly how high you need to "cut" your crease so that it's visible when your eyes are open.
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Take your flat synthetic brush and a tiny bit of concealer. Start from the inner corner and follow that mark you just made. Use small, stamping motions rather than long swipes. Long swipes lead to jagged lines. Stamping gives you control. Follow the curve all the way out to the middle of the eye (for a half-cut crease) or all the way to the outer corner (for a full-cut crease).
Refining the Edge
Once you have your concealer down, it’s a race against time. You need to set that concealer before it creases. If you want a matte look, pack a light-colored eyeshadow directly onto the wet concealer. If you want shimmer, this is where you apply your glitter or metallic shade. The contrast between the dark shadow above the line and the bright, clean color on the lid is what creates the "cut" effect.
If the line where the concealer meets the dark shadow looks a bit fuzzy, go back in with a tiny amount of the dark shadow on a very thin liner brush. Trace the very edge. This "reinforcement" makes the look pop in photos. It’s what gives that HD, filtered appearance that usually looks like AI but is actually just a lot of patience.
Common Blunders (And How to Fix Them)
The most common mistake? Using too much product. If you glob on the concealer, it’s going to slide around. You only need the thinnest layer possible to cover the shadow underneath. If the shadow you’re trying to cover is really dark, try wiping that area clean with a Q-tip dipped in micellar water before applying the concealer. It keeps the colors from mixing and turning grey.
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Another issue is the "stark line" at the outer corner. Unless you're going for a very specific 1960s Mod look—think Twiggy—you usually want the outer edge of the cut to blend back into the darker shadow. Use a tiny bit of your medium-tone shadow to bridge the gap between the "cut" lid and the outer "V" of the eye. This creates a gradient that looks more sophisticated and less like you just taped off your eye.
Beyond the Basics: Advanced Textures
Once you’ve mastered the basic how to do crease cut technique with mattes, you can start playing with textures. A huge trend in 2026 is the "wet look" cut crease. This involves using a clear gloss or a high-shine "glass" topper on the lid after the cut is established. However, be warned: gloss moves. If you're doing this for an event, you’ll need to use a product specifically designed for eyes, like the Danessa Myricks Colorfix in 'Clear', which sets and doesn't migrate as much as a lip gloss would.
You can also try a "double cut crease." This involves leaving a tiny sliver of skin or a different color between the lid and the upper shadow. It’s incredibly technical and requires a steady hand, but it’s the gold standard for showing off technical skill.
Actionable Tips for Your Next Attempt
Don't wait until you have a big event to try this for the first time. You will get stressed, your liner will be uneven, and you’ll end up washing it all off and wearing mascara. Practice on a Tuesday night before you jump in the shower.
- Map with a light pencil: If you're nervous, use a nude eyeliner pencil to map out the arch before you use dark shadow. It’s much easier to erase.
- The "Tape" Trick: If you struggle with the outer wing of the crease, use a piece of medical tape (press it against your hand first to make it less sticky) as a guide.
- Tilt your head back: When you are applying the concealer to "cut," tilt your head back and look down into a mirror. This flattens the skin of the eyelid and makes it easier to get a smooth line.
- Clean your brushes: You cannot do a cut crease with a dirty brush. Any leftover pigment from yesterday will ruin the "clean" look of the concealer.
- Micro-blending: Use a clean, dry brush to lightly buff the very top edge of your shadow. If you see a harsh line at the brow bone, you haven't blended enough.
Learning how to do crease cut makeup is essentially a rite of passage in the beauty world. It’s the difference between "doing your makeup" and "applying art to your face." It takes about ten failed attempts before it clicks, but once it does, you’ll be able to manipulate your eye shape in ways you never thought possible. Stick to the "open eye" mapping, invest in a tiny synthetic brush, and don't be afraid to wipe it off and start over.
For the best results, start with a neutral palette—tans, browns, and creams—before moving into the high-contrast neons or glitters. The neutrals are more forgiving while you're still learning the "stamp and set" rhythm of the technique. Once your hand is steady, the sky is the limit.