Honestly, most people overcomplicate the fishtail. You’ve probably seen those perfectly symmetrical, thick, Pinterest-worthy braids and thought, "My hands just don't move that way." It's frustrating. You try to follow a basic diagram, your arms get tired, and halfway through, the whole thing looks more like a tangled bird’s nest than a chic hairstyle.
But here’s the thing. How to do a fishtail braid isn't actually about complex finger gymnastics; it’s about tension and section size. That’s it. If you can hold two pieces of hair, you can do this.
The fishtail differs from your standard three-strand braid because it relies on two main sections. You’re essentially weaving tiny slivers of hair from the outside of one section over to the inside of the other. It takes longer. It’s a bit of a workout for your triceps. But the result is that intricate, "herringbone" look that looks way more expensive than it actually is.
The Foundation Most People Skip
Stop braiding clean hair.
Seriously. If you just washed and conditioned your hair this morning, your strands are too slippery. They’re going to slide right out of the weave, and you’ll find yourself tightening the braid so hard that it loses all its texture. Expert stylists like Jen Atkin or Chris Appleton often talk about the "grip" of the hair. Without it, you're fighting a losing battle.
If your hair is clean, blast it with some dry shampoo or a sea salt spray first. You need that grit. It gives the hair "teeth" so the sections actually stay where you put them.
You’ll also need a few basics:
- A paddle brush to remove every single snag. One knot can ruin the rhythm of a fishtail.
- Small, clear elastic bands. Avoid the thick office rubber bands; they’ll snap your hair.
- A tail comb if you want a precise center part, though messy parts are very "in" right now.
Learning How to Do a Fishtail Braid Without Losing Your Mind
Let's break the actual movement down. Forget the fancy terminology for a second.
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First, split your hair into two big, equal halves. Hold one in your left hand and one in your right. Now, take a tiny—and I mean tiny—sliver of hair from the very back edge of the right section. Cross it over the top of the right section and tuck it under the left section. Now it’s part of the left side.
Then you just do the opposite. Take a thin piece from the outside of the left section, cross it over, and tuck it into the right.
Keep going. Right to left. Left to right.
The biggest mistake? Taking chunks that are too big. If you grab half an inch of hair, it’s just going to look like a messy regular braid. To get that high-detail fishtail look, you need to grab pieces no thicker than a pencil. Yes, it takes forever. Yes, your thumbs might cramp. But the smaller the pieces, the more "pro" the braid looks.
Why Your Braid Ends Up Loosening
It’s all in the hands. Most beginners hold the hair too far down the strand. You have to keep your hands close to the "base" of the braid—the part you just finished. As you cross a piece over, pull it tight. Not "headache" tight, but firm.
If you want that boho, pancaked look, you don't braid it loosely. You braid it tight and then pull it apart later. This is a crucial distinction. A loosely braided fishtail will just fall apart by lunchtime. A tight braid that has been "massaged" out will stay secure while looking effortless.
Troubleshooting the "Messy" Middle
About three inches down, most people lose their rhythm. Your arms are up behind your head, you can’t see what you’re doing in the mirror because your own hands are in the way, and you accidentally grab a piece from the middle instead of the edge.
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When this happens, don't panic.
If you're doing a side fishtail, it's much easier. Pull all your hair over one shoulder. This allows you to see exactly what you’re doing in the mirror. It also changes the angle of your arms, which saves you from that mid-braid fatigue.
For a back braid, try using two mirrors—one in front and a hand mirror to check the back. Or, better yet, close your eyes. Sometimes your eyes deceive you in a mirror because everything is reversed. Your muscles often have better "memory" than your eyes do when it comes to braiding.
The Secret of the "Pancake"
Ever wonder why celebrity braids look so thick? It’s rarely just their natural hair. They use extensions, sure, but they also use a technique called pancaking.
Once your braid is finished and tied off with an elastic, start at the bottom. Gently—gently!—tug at the outer loops of the braid. Move your way up to the top. This flattens the braid and makes it look twice as wide. If you start from the top, you’ll pull too much slack from the bottom and the whole thing will sag. Always start from the elastic and work upward.
Common Myths About Fishtailing
People think you need waist-length hair. You don't.
You can do a fishtail on a bob. It just becomes a "French fishtail," where you start at the crown and pick up hair as you go down the scalp. It’s the same 2-section principle, just adding new hair into the slivers as you cross them over.
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Another myth: It has to be perfect.
Actually, a "perfect" fishtail can look a bit stiff, almost like a plastic hairpiece. The most stylish versions we see on runways or at music festivals like Coachella are usually a bit lived-in. If a few wisps fly out around your face, let them. It adds character.
Advanced Variations to Try
Once you’ve mastered the basic how to do a fishtail braid technique, you can get creative.
- The Inverted Fishtail: Instead of crossing the pieces over the sections, cross them under. This creates a braid that sits on top of the hair, looking 3D.
- The Faux-hawk Fishtail: Create a French fishtail down the center of your head but keep the sides very tight. It’s an edgy look that works great for concerts.
- The Double Fishtail Pigtails: Great for keeping hair out of your face during workouts, and they look much more "adult" than standard braids.
Practical Steps for Your First Attempt
Don't try this for the first time when you have to be at a wedding in twenty minutes. You will end up in tears.
- Practice on a friend or a doll first. Being able to see the sections without a mirror helps your brain map out the "over-and-under" movement.
- Use a texture powder. Products like Kevin Murphy Powder.Puff or even a cheap drugstore volumizing powder make the hair much easier to manipulate.
- Don't use a mirror at first. If you’re doing it on yourself, try doing it while watching TV. Let your fingers learn the rhythm without the confusing visual of the mirror's reflection.
- Finish with a flexible hold hairspray. You want something that stops flyaways but doesn't make the braid feel like a piece of wood.
The fishtail is a staple because it’s versatile. It works for a black-tie gala or a trip to the grocery store. It’s one of those skills that, once it "clicks," you’ll wonder why you ever thought it was hard. Just remember: small sections, consistent tension, and don't be afraid to mess it up a little.
To ensure the braid lasts all day, especially if you have layers, use a tiny bit of hair wax on your fingertips while you braid. This "glues" the ends of your layers into the main structure so they don't poke out like porcupine quills halfway through the day. If they do poke out, a tiny bit of clear lash glue can actually tack down a stubborn stray hair without the crustiness of heavy gel.
Start your practice session with second-day hair, grab two elastics, and give yourself at least fifteen minutes of uninterrupted time. Your first few inches might look wonky, but by the time you reach the ends, the pattern will be established and looking clean.