How to Disassemble Ikea Bed Frame: The Stuff You Usually Forget Until It Is Too Late

Moving is a nightmare. Honestly, there is no other way to put it. You’ve got the boxes, the tape that never sticks to the cardboard, and then you see it: the Malm or the Hemnes sitting in the corner of the room like a giant, wooden puzzle you solved three years ago and completely forgot the logic behind. Figuring out how to disassemble Ikea bed frame units isn't just about unscrewing things until the wood falls over. It’s about survival. If you do it wrong, the particle board shreds. Once that happens, the screw will never bite again. You're left with a wobbly bed that squeaks every time you breathe.

Most people just grab a screwdriver and start cranking. Big mistake.

I’ve spent years helping friends move out of cramped apartments, and I have seen more ruined Ikea furniture than I care to admit. The secret isn't strength. It's actually about understanding how the cam lock system works and why the "L-shaped" Allen key is your best friend and worst enemy at the same time. You need a plan.

The Tools You Actually Need (Don’t Just Wing It)

Stop. Put down the power drill for a second. While it is tempting to use a DeWalt or Milwaukee impact driver to speed things up, that is the fastest way to strip the soft metal of an Ikea bolt. These pieces are often made of Medium-Density Fibreboard (MDF) or particle board with a veneer. They are delicate.

You need a manual set of Allen keys (Metric, always). Most Ikea frames use a 4mm or 5mm hex key. You’ll also want a flathead screwdriver—not for screws, but for those annoying cam locks that refuse to turn. A rubber mallet is also a lifesaver. Sometimes the wooden dowels get stuck due to humidity changes, and a gentle tap is better than pulling until the wood splits.

Grab some Ziploc bags. Seriously. Label them "Bed Frame Hardware." If you lose one of those specialized crescent-shaped nuts, you are going to be scrolling through eBay or begging at the Ikea Spare Parts bin for an hour.

Step One: Stripping the Bed Down to the Bones

You can't move the frame until the guts are out. Take off the mattress. Throw it in the hallway. Now, look at the slats. If you have the LURÖY slats, they are likely just held together by a ribbon and resting on the metal rails. Roll them up. Tape them so they don't unroll like a wooden snake while you’re carrying them down the stairs.

If you have the LONSET slats, you’re in for a bit more work. These have those little rubber holders that snap into the frame. Don't pry them with a metal tool or they’ll snap. Use your hands.

Once the slats are gone, you’ll see the Midbeam. This is usually the SKORVA beam—that galvanized steel telescopic bar in the middle. It’s usually held in by two small screws or just drops into hooks. Remove it. Without the beam, the bed loses its structural integrity. This is when the frame starts to feel "wiggly." Be careful.

Why How to Disassemble Ikea Bed Frame Projects Fail at the Cam Lock

This is the part where everyone messes up. The cam lock is that little round metal circle with a cross on it. You turn it, and it "grabs" the head of a metal bolt.

To disassemble, you need to turn these counter-clockwise. But here is the trick: they usually only turn about 180 degrees. If you force it past the "unlock" point, you’ll bend the internal tab. Once that tab is bent, getting the side rail off the headboard is like trying to solve a Rubik’s cube made of wet cardboard.

You want to turn the cam lock until the arrow on the face points directly toward the piece of wood it’s connecting to. That’s the "neutral" position. Only then can you pull the side rail away from the headboard. If it feels stuck, give it a firm thump with the palm of your hand. Usually, it’s just the wooden dowels being stubborn.

The Side Rails and the Headboard

Now you’re getting somewhere. The side rails are long. They are awkward. If you are doing this alone, pro tip: prop up the side rail with a pile of books or a shoe box while you unscrew the headboard side. If you don't, the weight of the rail will pull down as the last screw comes out, and the leverage will rip the screw right out of the particle board.

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It’s ugly. It’s painful to watch.

Dealing with the Footboard and the "Hidden" Screws

The footboard is usually easier, but watch out for the metal mounting plates. Ikea loves to hide screws behind these plates. If you're working on a Hemnes, the wood is solid pine, which is great because it’s tougher, but it also means the screws can be tighter.

If you encounter a screw that is stuck, don't keep twisting. You’ll strip the head. Instead, place your screwdriver in the slot and give the back of the handle a sharp tap with your mallet. This "shocks" the threads and can break the friction.

Specialized Frames: The Malm and the Songesand

The Malm is the king of Ikea beds. It’s everywhere. It uses a specific type of long bolt that goes through the headboard and into a "moon nut" (a half-moon shaped piece of metal) inside the side rail.

To get these out:

1. Loosen the bolt from the outside of the headboard.
2. Reach into the side rail and fish out the moon nut.
3. Don't let it fall into the hollow part of the rail!

If you’re dealing with a storage bed like the BRIMNES, you have drawers to deal with. Take the drawers out first. Then, you have to basically take apart the internal "box" structure. It takes twice as long. Plan for that.

Moving and Protection

So, it's in pieces. You're done, right? Not quite.

Ikea furniture is essentially paper and glue in many cases. The edges are incredibly prone to chipping. Wrap the ends of the side rails in bubble wrap or even old socks. If you drop a side rail on its corner on a hardwood floor, the veneer will pop off, and you'll see the ugly brown interior forever.

Tape the screws to the specific boards they came from if you don't want to use bags. Use painter's tape—it won't leave a sticky residue on the finish.

Reassembly: The "Second Life" Problem

There is a myth that Ikea furniture can only be built once. That isn't true, but there is a grain of truth to it. The more you screw and unscrew into the same holes, the looser they get.

If you find that a hole has become too wide during disassembly, here is a pro hack: when you go to put it back together, shove a toothpick or two into the hole with a tiny drop of wood glue. Then drive the screw in. The toothpick provides extra fibers for the screw to grab onto. It works like a charm.

Avoid the "Ikea Lean"

When you eventually put the bed back together at the new place, don't tighten everything 100% until the whole frame is squared up. Get everything "finger tight" first. Then, check the diagonals of the bed with a tape measure. If the measurements are the same, the bed is square. Now, tighten everything down. This prevents the "Ikea lean" where the bed feels like it’s slowly sliding into a rhombus shape.

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Real World Statistics and Durability

According to various furniture repair forums and consumer reports, the primary cause of furniture failure during a move is structural stress from improper disassembly. Most people try to move the frame "partially assembled." This is a disaster. A bed frame is designed to handle vertical weight (you sleeping), not lateral torque (movers tilting it through a doorway).

The effort you put into learning how to disassemble Ikea bed frame components now will save you $300 on a new frame later.

Actionable Next Steps

1. Audit your tools: Go find a 4mm and 5mm Allen key right now. If you don't have them, buy a cheap multi-set.
2. Clear the area: You need at least three feet of space on all sides of the bed to work safely without banging the rails into walls.
3. Bag the bits: Get those Ziploc bags ready. Use a Sharpie.
4. Take photos: Before you pull a piece apart, take a photo of the joint. It helps more than the manual when you're tired and trying to rebuild it at 11 PM in a new house.
5. Slow down: If a piece isn't moving, don't pull harder. Look for the hidden screw or the cam lock you forgot.

Disassembling an Ikea bed is mostly a mental game. It’s about being methodical and realizing that the furniture is more fragile than it looks. Keep your hardware organized, protect the corners, and never, ever lose that SKORVA beam. You’ve got this.

Hardware Checklist for the Move:

• Ziploc bags (Gallon size for the big bolts).
• Painter's tape (For labeling and securing slats).
• Allen key set (Metric).
• Rubber mallet (For "persuasion").
• Flashlight (To find the moon nuts dropped inside the rails).

Everything you need is basically already in your junk drawer. Just take it one bolt at a time. Once the side rails are off, the rest is easy. Safe moving.