You’re staring at that Glock 17 on your workbench, and honestly, it looks a bit intimidating if you've never taken it apart before. It’s the "Honda Civic" of the gun world—reliable, blocky, and remarkably simple once you get the hang of it. But here is the thing: if you mess up the sequence, you’re either going to be fighting a stubborn slide or, worse, dealing with an accidental discharge because you skipped the most vital safety check.
Safety isn't just a buzzword here. It’s the whole game.
Before we even talk about pins or springs, you have to clear the chamber. I mean really clear it. Drop the magazine first. Then, rack the slide at least three times. Lock it back. Look inside. Stick your finger in there if you have to. You want to see nothing but daylight and metal. If there is a round in that chamber when you pull the trigger to release the slide tension, you aren't just cleaning a gun—you're having a very bad day.
The First Step to Disassemble Glock 17
Most people get stuck right at the beginning because the Glock take-down lever is, frankly, a bit of a pain for anyone with larger fingers or short fingernails. You’ve got to pull the trigger. Yes, you heard that right. Unlike a Smith & Wesson M&P where you can move a sear deactivation lever, the Glock requires a "dry fire" to release the firing pin tension. This is why that safety check I mentioned earlier is the difference between a routine maintenance session and a hole in your drywall.
Once the trigger is clicked forward, you need to grip the pistol in a specific way. Wrap your hand over the top of the slide, with four fingers on top and your thumb on the grip. You are pulling the slide back just a tiny bit—maybe an eighth of an inch. If you pull it back too far, you’ll reset the trigger, and you’ll have to start over. It’s a delicate "Goldilocks" zone.
While holding that slide back slightly, use your other hand to pull down on the two small serrated tabs on either side of the frame. These are the slide lock levers. Pull them down simultaneously. Now, let the slide move forward. It should glide right off the frame. If it sticks, you probably didn't pull the trigger or you aren't holding the tabs down low enough.
Stripping the Slide Components
Now you have two main pieces: the frame and the slide assembly. The frame is basically a hunk of polymer with some metal rails, so put that aside for a second. We’re focusing on the "guts" of the slide.
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Flip the slide upside down. You’ll see the recoil spring assembly staring at you. It’s a captive system on the Gen 4 and Gen 5 models, meaning the spring won't fly across the room like an old Jack-in-the-box. Push the base of the spring toward the muzzle slightly to tension it, then lift it up and out.
Next comes the barrel. It’s just sitting there now. Grab the lug (the square-ish part) and lift it up and back. The barrel should slide right out of the front of the slide.
At this point, you’ve achieved what we call a "field strip." For 95% of owners, this is as far as you ever need to go. You can reach the feed ramp, the rifling, and the slide rails. If you’re trying to deep-clean after a 1,000-round weekend at the range, this is the sweet spot.
Diving Deeper: The Slide Internal Parts
Sometimes you need to go further. Maybe you dropped your Glock 17 in the mud, or maybe you’re installing a maritime firing pin spacer. To get the firing pin and extractor out, you have to remove the slide cover plate. This part is tricky.
Look at the back of the slide. See that plastic plate? Inside the slide, there is a plastic sleeve (the firing pin spacer sleeve). You need to use a punch or a small tool to push that sleeve down, toward the muzzle. This removes the pressure on the cover plate. While holding that down, slide the plate off with your thumb.
Warning: Keep your thumb over the plate as it slides off. There are two spring-loaded components under there—the firing pin assembly and the extractor depressor plunger. If you aren't careful, they will launch.
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Once the plate is off, you can pull the firing pin assembly straight out. Then, pull the extractor depressor plunger out. Now, the extractor itself will literally just fall out of the side of the slide if you give it a little nudge. This is how you clean out the "gunk" that causes extraction failures. If you see a lot of brass shavings in there, you’re doing the right thing by cleaning it.
Handling the Frame and Trigger Mechanism
The frame is where the "magic" happens, but it’s also where things get messy if you aren't patient. You’ll notice three pins (on most models, though Gen 5 went back to two).
- The trigger pin (the big one).
- The locking block pin (the small one above it).
- The trigger housing pin (at the back of the grip).
Use a standard 3/32 inch punch. Always push from left to right. Why? Because that’s the standard, and it keeps your hardware consistent. The trigger pin usually requires you to wiggle the slide stop lever while pushing. It’s held in by a little tension from the spring, so don't hammer it like you're building a deck. Just wiggle and push.
Once those pins are out, you can lift the locking block out. Then, the entire trigger assembly—the trigger bar, the trigger shoe, and the rear housing—comes out as one big unit. You’ll see the "cruciform" on the trigger bar. This is what interacts with the firing pin. If it’s covered in black carbon, wipe it down. But don't over-oil it. Glocks actually hate being oily. A tiny drop on the "connector" (where the trigger bar meets the rear housing) is all you need.
Common Mistakes People Make
I’ve seen people try to use a hammer on the take-down tabs. Don't do that. If the slide isn't coming off, it’s almost always because the firing pin is still cocked. Check the trigger. Is it back or forward? It needs to be in the "fired" position.
Another big one: putting the recoil spring back in wrong. When you’re reassembling, the base of the recoil spring has to sit in the semi-circular notch on the barrel lug. If it’s sitting on the "step" above it, you might get the slide back on, but it’s going to feel crunchy and might jam immediately.
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Also, watch out for the Gen 5 differences. If you're working on a newer Glock 17, you’ll notice the ambidextrous slide stop. It’s one piece. Don't try to force one side off. It stays together.
Maintaining Your Glock 17 After Disassembly
Once you’ve got it all apart, what's the plan? Use a dedicated CLP (Clean, Lubricate, Protect). I’m a fan of stuff like Hoppe’s or Ballistol, but everyone has their "holy grail" oil. The key is moderation. Glock factory manuals specify exactly five drops of oil for the entire gun. One on each of the four slide rails and one where the connector meets the trigger bar.
If you put oil in the firing pin channel, you are asking for trouble. Oil in there collects carbon, turns into a thick paste, and eventually leads to light primer strikes. You want that channel bone-dry.
When you put it back together, do a function check.
- Rack the slide.
- Pull the trigger (aimed in a safe direction!).
- Hold the trigger down.
- Rack the slide again.
- Slowly release the trigger until you hear/feel the "click" of the reset.
If that works, you’re good to go.
Actionable Maintenance Steps
To keep your Glock 17 running for another 50,000 rounds, follow this rhythm.
- Field Strip every 500 rounds: Just the slide, barrel, and spring. Clean the carbon off the breech face and the feed ramp.
- Deep Clean every 3,000 rounds: This is when you take the firing pin out of the slide and the trigger assembly out of the frame.
- Inspect the Recoil Spring: Every few thousand rounds, do the "vertical test." Point the empty gun straight up, pull the trigger, and hold it. Pull the slide to the rear and let it forward slowly. It should go fully into battery under its own spring tension. If it stays open, your spring is getting weak.
- Check the Extractor: Ensure the "claw" isn't chipped. A tiny chip here is the primary cause of "brass to the face" or stovepipe jams.
By following this process, you aren't just taking a tool apart; you're ensuring that the tool works when it's actually needed. The Glock 17 is a masterpiece of engineering because of its simplicity, so treat it with the respect that simple, effective tools deserve. Keep your workspace clean, keep your parts organized in a tray, and never force a pin that doesn't want to move. High-quality maintenance is the hallmark of a responsible owner.