You've got a soccer ball that feels more like a bowling ball. Or maybe you're packing for a flight and realize a fully pressurized Nike Flight ball is going to take up half your suitcase—or worse, pop in the unpressurized cargo hold. You need the air out. Now. But if you just start stabbing at the valve with a paperclip or a kitchen knife, you’re basically signing the ball's death warrant.
Most people think deflating a ball is a "no-brainer" task. It isn't. I’ve seen $160 official match balls ruined in ten seconds because someone pushed the valve into the center of the ball. Once that valve seat drops, the ball is trash. Total waste.
🔗 Read more: Croatia vs Ukraine Soccer: What Most People Get Wrong
Whether you’re trying to adjust the PSI for a toddler’s practice or prepping for long-term storage, there is a "right" way that keeps the butyl or latex bladder intact. Honestly, it’s all about the lubricant and the angle. If you get those two things right, the ball stays healthy for years. If you don't? You're buying a new one by next Tuesday.
The Tool Kit: Why the Needle Matters
Standard inflation needles are cheap. You can get a pack of ten for a few bucks at any big-box store or online. They are hollow, blunt, and designed specifically to bypass the rubber flap of the valve without tearing it. This is the only tool you should ideally use to deflate a soccer ball.
If you don't have a needle, people get creative. They use paperclips. They use toothpicks. Some even use those tiny screwdrivers meant for eyeglasses. Stop. Just stop. Those DIY tools are sharp or jagged. The valve inside a soccer ball—usually made of silicon or rubber—is a one-way street. When you force a rough object through it, you create micro-tears. These tears lead to "slow leaks," the kind where your ball is flat every single morning, and you can't figure out why.
If you are absolutely in a pinch and have no needle, a thin, blunt, metal object like a straightened paperclip can work, but you have to be incredibly gentle. But really, go find a needle.
The Step-by-Step Reality of Letting Air Out
First, find some lubrication. This is the step everyone skips. Even a little bit of saliva works, though specialized valve oil or even a drop of glycerin is better. Why? Because a dry needle creates friction against the dry rubber valve. Friction leads to heat and sticking. If the needle sticks, you might accidentally pull the valve housing right out of the ball when you retract it.
Dab the needle. Just a little.
👉 See also: What Time Clemson Game: Your Guide to the 2026 Tigers Schedule
Now, look at the valve. It’s that little black or grey circle. Hold the ball firmly between your knees or have a friend hold it. You want to insert the needle straight. Not at an angle. If you go in sideways, you risk puncturing the side of the bladder wall. Once the needle is in about halfway, you’ll hear that familiar hiss.
Don't sit on the ball.
I see coaches do this all the time to speed things up. They stick the needle in and then put their full body weight on the ball to squeeze the air out. This puts immense pressure on the seams. High-end balls like the Adidas Pro models are thermally bonded. Excessive, uneven pressure while deflating can actually warp the shape of the ball, making it wobble when it flies. Just let the air escape naturally, or apply gentle, even palm pressure.
What if the Needle Gets Stuck?
It happens. Usually, it's because the ball is old and the rubber has hardened. If you feel resistance, don't just yank. Wiggle it slightly while applying a tiny bit more lubricant to the base of the needle.
Dealing with Different Valve Types
Not all balls are built the same. A cheap $10 ball from a grocery store has a very basic, often flimsy valve. These are the easiest to break. Professional balls, like those used in the English Premier League, often have "High Retention" valves. These are stiffer.
Some older balls use latex bladders instead of butyl. Latex is great for "feel" and bounce—it's what the pros prefer—but it loses air naturally over time anyway. If you are deflating a latex ball, be aware that the bladder inside is much thinner and more "floppy" than a butyl one. It is much easier to accidentally pierce a latex bladder if you're poking around with something other than a standard pump needle.
The "No Needle" Emergency Method
Okay, let's say you're at the airport. No needle. No pump. No sports store in sight. You have to get the air out or the TSA might give you a hard time, or the pressure change could damage the ball.
You can use a very thin, smooth ink refill from a ballpoint pen. Take the pen apart. The little plastic tube that holds the ink (make sure it's not leaky) is often the right diameter. It’s blunt enough not to puncture the bladder but thin enough to enter the valve. It’s a messy, "last resort" tactic, but it works better than a sharp nail.
💡 You might also like: Why Estadio Cicero de Souza Marques is Still the Heart of Jaboticabal Sports
Another trick? A heavy-duty paperclip.
- Straighten it out completely.
- Use a file or even a rock to dull the tip so it isn't sharp.
- Lubricate it.
- Insert it slowly.
You won't get a loud hiss because the paperclip isn't hollow. You'll have to push it to the side slightly once it's inside to create a tiny gap in the valve flap for air to escape. It's slow. It's tedious. It's better than a ruined ball.
Misconceptions About Flat Balls
A common myth is that storing a ball completely flat is good for it. Actually, it's kind of the opposite. If you're storing a ball for months, leave a little bit of air in it. Just enough so it holds its round shape.
When a ball is totally pancaked, the bladder inside can fold and crease. Over time, those creases become brittle. When you finally go to pump it up six months later, the bladder cracks at the fold line. Boom. Dead ball. Keeping it "semi-inflated" keeps the materials supple.
Also, heat is the enemy. Never leave a deflated—or inflated—ball in a hot car. The heat breaks down the adhesives holding the panels together. You’ll end up with a ball that looks like a lumpy potato.
Common PSI Targets
If you're deflating the ball just to make it more playable, check the tiny print around the valve. It will tell you the recommended pressure. Usually, it’s between 8.5 and 15.6 PSI.
- Training: Keep it on the lower end (9 PSI) to make it easier on the feet during high-repetition drills.
- Match Play: Aim for 12-14 PSI for that "ping" off the boot.
- Kids: Drop it down to 7 or 8 PSI. It prevents "stinger" shots and makes the game more fun for little legs.
How to Test if You Went Too Far
If you’ve let out too much air, you don't necessarily need a pressure gauge to tell. Use the "thumb test." Press your thumb firmly into the center of the ball. For a standard match-ready ball, you should only be able to depress the surface about half a centimeter. If you can push it in an inch, it’s too soft. It will feel "heavy" on the field and won't travel as far.
Actionable Steps for Success
- Get the right gear: Buy a 3-pack of metal needles and keep one in your car, one in your gym bag, and one in your kitchen drawer.
- Always lubricate: A quick dip in water or a bit of saliva is the bare minimum to save the valve.
- Go slow: Don't force the needle. If it won't go, the valve might be blocked with dirt. Use a dampened Q-tip to clean the valve opening first.
- Store smart: If you're deflating for the off-season, keep the ball in a cool, dry place and don't stack heavy boxes on top of it.
- Check for leaks: After you've finished adjusting the air, put a drop of water over the valve hole. If it bubbles, your valve is leaking. You can sometimes fix this by inserting the needle again and wiggling it to "reset" the rubber flap.
Maintaining the right pressure is one of those small habits that separates players who replace their gear every season from those who keep the same trusty ball for five years. Treat the valve with respect, and the ball will actually hold its shape when you need it most.