You’ve probably seen it. That perfectly lived-in, raw-edge sweatshirt or that vintage tee that looks like it’s been through a decade of concerts and late-night diners. It’s got a specific vibe. Effortless. Grungy, but in a way that feels intentional. Maybe you have a crewneck that feels a bit too tight around the throat, or a thrift store find with a collar that’s yellowed and gross beyond the help of OxiClean. You want to fix it.
Learning how to cut the collar off a shirt is basically a rite of passage for anyone getting into DIY fashion or "upcycling." But honestly? Most people mess it up on their first try. They grab the kitchen scissors—the ones they use to open bags of frozen peas—and just start hacking away while the shirt is bunched up on their lap. The result is a jagged, lopsided mess that unravels after one wash. It looks less like "grunge" and more like "I had a fight with a lawnmower."
Let's do it the right way.
The psychology of the raw hem
Why do we even do this? Beyond just comfort, there’s a massive aesthetic shift happening toward "deconstructed" garments. Brands like Yeezy or Fear of God have sold shirts for hundreds of dollars that look like they were finished with a pocketknife. By cutting your own collar, you’re taking back control of the garment's silhouette. It’s about creating a wider neckline that shows off a bit of collarbone or allows a layer underneath to peek through.
Designers like Vivienne Westwood famously pioneered the punk aesthetic by ripping, safety-pinning, and altering standard basics. You aren't just destroying a shirt; you're re-tailoring it.
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What you actually need (Skip the kitchen scissors)
If you use dull scissors, you're doomed. Dull blades don't cut fabric; they chew it. This leads to those tiny, annoying "pills" of cotton and an uneven edge that will drive you crazy.
First, get some fabric shears. They don't have to be expensive, but they need to be sharp. Brands like Gingher or even the basic orange-handled Fiskars will work infinitely better than whatever is in your junk drawer. You also need a flat surface. A kitchen table or a hardwood floor is perfect. Do not try to do this on a carpeted floor or your bed. The fabric will shift, and you'll end up with a lopsided neck.
You might also want some tailor's chalk or even just a piece of dry soap to mark your line. If you're feeling brave, you can eyeball it, but marking a "guide track" is the difference between a pro-look and a disaster.
Step-by-step: How to cut the collar off a shirt
The preparation phase
Lay the shirt out flat. Smooth out every single wrinkle. You want the front and back collar seams to line up perfectly. Take your hands and run them from the center of the chest out toward the sleeves to ensure there’s no bunching underneath.
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The first incision
Most people think you should cut on the seam. Don't do that. If you cut exactly on the seam, the shirt will likely feel exactly as tight as it did before, just itchier.
Instead, decide if you want to keep the "ribbing" or lose it entirely.
- If you want a clean but raw look, cut about 1/4 inch outside the seam (toward the shoulders).
- If you want a deep scoop or "boat neck" style, you'll need to mark a wider arc.
Start your cut at the shoulder seam. This is the strongest part of the shirt where the front and back panels meet. Poke a small hole or make a tiny snip. Now, slow down.
The "Continuous Motion" trick
When you’re cutting, try to use long, steady strokes. Every time you stop and start the scissors, you create a tiny "nick" in the fabric. These nicks become the weak points where the fabric will eventually tear or fray unevenly. Follow the curve of the collar naturally.
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If you're nervous about the back of the neck, you can cut the front first, then fold the shirt in half vertically to use the front cut as a template for the back. This ensures symmetry. Honestly, perfection is overrated here, but you don't want it to look like a zig-zag.
Dealing with different fabric types
Not all shirts are created equal. A 100% cotton heavy-weight Hanes Beefy-T will react very differently than a tri-blend or a polyester athletic shirt.
Heavy Cotton: These are the best for cutting. The edges will naturally roll inward after a wash, creating that cool, rounded "tube" look. It hides minor cutting mistakes.
Jersey Blends: These are thinner and stretchier. If you cut these, be careful not to pull the fabric while you're cutting, or it will snap back and look much wider than you intended.
Synthetics: Generally, don't cut these. Polyester and nylon won't "roll" nicely; they’ll just fray and shed plastic threads everywhere. It looks cheap and feels scratchy.
The Secret Sauce: The "Wash and Dry" Cycle
This is the part most tutorials skip. When you first finish cutting, the edge looks sharp and "new." It looks like you just cut it. To get that authentic vintage look, you have to throw it in the laundry immediately.
The agitation of the washing machine and the heat of the dryer cause the raw cotton edges to fray slightly and then curl. This "roll" is what gives the shirt its character. It also "locks" the threads so the shirt doesn't keep unraveling forever. If you see long threads hanging off after the dryer, don't pull them! Snip them carefully with your shears.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Cutting too much too fast: You can always cut more off, but you can't sew it back on. Start with a conservative trim. Try the shirt on. If you want it lower, go back in for round two.
- Forgetting the "Stretch Factor": Once the structural integrity of the ribbed collar is gone, the weight of the sleeves will pull the neck wider. A 1-inch cut might result in a 2-inch drop once you're actually wearing it.
- Ignoring the shoulder seams: If you cut too far toward the arms, the shirt will start sliding off your shoulders. Unless you're going for a Flashdance 80s look, keep the cut at least an inch away from the actual shoulder point.
Customizing the finish
If you hate the raw look and want something more "boutique," you can do a stay-stitch. This requires a sewing machine. Just run a simple straight stitch about 1/8th of an inch from the new edge. This stops the rolling and gives it a purposeful, "designed" look.
Or, you can go the other way. Distress it. Take a piece of sandpaper and lightly rub the new edge. This softens the cotton and makes it look like the shirt is twenty years old instead of twenty minutes old.
Actionable Next Steps
- Select a "Sacrificial" Shirt: Don't start with your favorite vintage band tee. Find an old promotional shirt or a cheap undershirt to practice your scissor technique.
- Check Your Tools: Run your scissors through a piece of paper. If it snags or tears rather than slicing, sharpen them or buy a pair of fabric shears.
- Mark Your Line: Use a white colored pencil or chalk. Trace the curve you want while the shirt is flat on a table.
- The First Cut: Start at the shoulder. Move slowly.
- The Reveal: Wash it on cold, dry it on medium heat. Wear it.
Cutting the collar off a shirt is the fastest way to turn a boring garment into a custom piece of clothing. It takes about five minutes, but if you follow these steps, it’ll look like it took a lot more effort than it actually did. Just remember: measure twice, cut once, and always, always use sharp blades.
Once you master the neck, you can start experimenting with the sleeves and the bottom hem. The goal is a wardrobe that actually fits your body and your style, not just whatever the factory decided a "Medium" should look like.