How to Cut Sweatpants Into Shorts Without Ruining Them

You know those old grey joggers sitting at the bottom of your drawer? The ones with the elastic ankles that have lost their snap, or maybe they’re just too short in the leg now? Honestly, don’t toss them. We’ve all been there, staring at a pair of perfectly good fleece pants that just don't fit the vibe anymore. Converting them is the move. But if you just go at them with kitchen scissors while you're wearing them, you're going to end up with a jagged, lopsided mess that looks more like a DIY disaster than a deliberate style choice.

Cutting sweatpants into shorts is basically a rite of passage for anyone trying to save a few bucks or curate a specific "raw hem" aesthetic. It’s simple, but there's a science to the slouch. If you mess up the rise or the inseam length, they’ll ride up in ways that are... uncomfortable. Let’s talk about how to actually get it right so you don't end up with expensive rags.

The Reality of Fabric Fray and "The Roll"

Most sweatpants are made from jersey or French Terry. These fabrics don't behave like denim. When you cut denim, it frays in those nice white threads. When you cut sweatpants, the edge is going to curl.

This is the biggest mistake people make. They cut the shorts exactly where they want them to sit, forget about the fabric’s natural tendency to roll upward, and suddenly they're wearing hot pants. If you want a 7-inch inseam, you better cut at 8 or 9 inches. Trust me on this. Cotton-heavy blends curl more than polyester-heavy ones. If your pants are that thick, heavy-duty fleece like the Champion Reverse Weave, that edge is going to be bulky. You have to account for that weight pulling the fabric down, too.

It’s also worth noting that once you cut that finished cuff off, you’re losing the weight that keeps the pant leg straight. Your new shorts are going to feel a lot lighter and "flowier." This is why choosing the right pair to sacrifice matters.

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Tools You Actually Need (No, Dull Scissors Aren't It)

Stop. Put down the craft scissors you found in the junk drawer. If the blades are dull, they will chew the fabric rather than slicing it, leaving you with a "toothed" edge that looks accidental.

• Fabric Shears: If you can’t get your hands on actual Gingher shears, at least use a brand-new pair of heavy-duty utility scissors.
• Chalk or a Sliver of Soap: Do not use a Sharpie. The ink will bleed when you wash them. A dry piece of soap creates a perfect line that disappears in the first rinse.
• A Ruler or Quilting Square: Your eye is lying to you. Use a straight edge.
• Safety Pins: Essential for the "test drive" phase.

The "Measure Twice, Cry Never" Method

First things first: wash and dry the sweatpants before you even think about cutting. If they’re going to shrink, you want them to do it now, not after you’ve trimmed them to the perfect length.

Once they’re dry, put them on. Stand in front of a full-length mirror. This is where you decide your fate. Use your chalk to mark where you think you want the hem to hit. Now, sit down. Seriously. If you cut them while standing, they might look great, but the second you sit, the fabric pulls up the thigh. Give yourself at least an extra inch of "buffer" room below your mark.

Take them off. Lay them flat on a hard floor—not a carpet, because the carpet creates friction that bunches the fabric. Line up the waistband so it's perfectly level. If the waistband is crooked, your legs will be crooked.

Finding the Inseam

Don't just cut across in a straight horizontal line. If you look at professional shorts, the inner thigh is usually a tiny bit longer than the outer edge to accommodate the curve of your body.

1. Measure from the crotch seam down the inner leg. For a standard modern fit, 7 to 9 inches is the sweet spot for most guys; for a more vintage look, 5 inches.
2. Mark your spot on both legs.
3. Use your ruler to draw a slightly angled line from the inner mark to the outer seam.
4. Pro tip: Cut one leg first. Fold the pants in half vertically so the cut leg is on top of the uncut leg. Use the cut edge as your template for the second side. This is the only way to ensure symmetry.

Dealing With the Raw Hem

So you’ve made the cut. Now what?

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You have three options here. The first is the "Let it Be" approach. This is for that streetwear, lived-in look. The edge will roll up slightly, hiding your minor cutting imperfections. It looks intentional.

The second is the "Stay Stitch." If you have a sewing machine, run a simple straight stitch about a quarter-inch above the raw edge. This won't stop the rolling, but it will stop the fabric from unravelling or stretching out over time. It creates a "bumper" that keeps the shorts from getting shorter and shorter every time they go through the dryer.

The third is the "Rolled Cuff." If you cut them too long on purpose, you can roll the edge twice and put a tiny "tack" stitch on the inner and outer seams. This gives you a cleaner, more tailored look without needing to do a full hem.

Why Some Sweatpants Should Never Be Shorts

Not every pair is a candidate. If the sweatpants have a side zipper at the ankle, forget it. You’ll cut through the zipper mechanism, and it’ll be a scratchy, sharp mess. Similarly, if the pants are extremely oversized in the hips but tapered at the bottom (that 2010s "drop crotch" look), cutting them will make you look like you’re wearing a fleece diaper.

Look for pants that have a relatively straight leg or a slight taper. The fabric should have some structure. Thin, pajama-style lounge pants usually just look ragged when cut. You want that beefy 10oz or 12oz fleece for the best results.

Maintaining Your New Gear

The first wash after cutting is the moment of truth. You’re going to see a lot of "fuzzies" in the lint trap. That’s normal. After the first dry, you might need to take your scissors and trim away any long, dangling threads that appeared during the agitation cycle.

Avoid high heat. High heat makes the raw edges curl aggressively and can sometimes cause the fabric to "bacon"—where the edge becomes wavy and won't lay flat against your leg. Tumble dry on low or, better yet, air dry them and then toss them in the dryer for five minutes just to soften the fleece back up.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid

• Cutting through the pockets: Check where the pocket bags end! There is nothing worse than finishing your cut and realizing you just sliced the bottom off your pockets. Now your phone will slide right through onto the floor. If the pockets are too long, you’ll have to sew the bottom of the pocket bag shut higher up before you cut the legs.
• The "V" Shape: Don't cut upward toward the outer hip too sharply. It makes the shorts look like 1970s running shorts (which is a vibe, if that's what you want, but usually accidental).
• Ignoring the Rise: If the pants are high-waisted, the shorts will be too. Adjust where you want the hem based on where you actually wear the waistband on your hips.

Actionable Next Steps

If you're ready to chop, start by grabbing a pair of pants you haven't worn in at least six months.

Check the pocket depth right now—stick your hand in and mark where your fingertips land. If that's lower than your intended cut line, you'll need a needle and thread to close the pocket higher up.

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Once you’ve verified the pockets, find a flat, hard surface. Avoid doing this on a bed or a rug. Get your chalk ready, and remember: you can always cut more off, but you can't sew the legs back on. Start long. You can always trim another half-inch tomorrow after you’ve seen how the fabric settles.

After the first cut, put them on and walk around. See how they move. If the "roll" is too much, or if they feel uneven, that's when you do your final precision trim. No stress, it’s just fleece.