You’re standing there holding a glass slab that won't stop glitching. Or maybe you finally bought the new M4 iPad Pro and you need to get rid of the old one before the trade-in value drops another fifty bucks. Whatever the reason, knowing how to completely reset iPad is one of those basic "tech hygiene" skills that sounds easy until you're staring at a spinning wheel of death or a forgotten passcode screen.
Honestly? It's usually a five-minute job. But if you skip a step, you might end up with an "Activation Locked" paperweight that even Apple Support can't help you with easily.
We’ve all been there. You think you wiped it, you send it to the buyer on eBay, and three days later they're emailing you because the device is still tied to your Apple ID. It’s awkward. It’s preventable. Let’s get into the weeds of how this actually works in 2026, including the weird edge cases like when your screen is smashed or you can't remember your iCloud password.
The "I'm Selling This" Reset vs. The "It's Broken" Reset
There’s a massive difference between a factory reset and a soft restart. A lot of people get these confused. A soft restart—holding the power and volume buttons—is just like a nap for your iPad. It clears the RAM but keeps your photos of your cat. A factory reset is the nuclear option. It formats the drive. It’s gone. Poof.
Before you touch that "Erase All Content and Settings" button, you have to talk about iCloud.
If you don't sign out of Find My iPad, the device stays locked to your account. This is a theft-prevention feature called Activation Lock. It’s great if someone steals your bag at a coffee shop; it's a nightmare if you're just trying to give the tablet to your nephew. Apple's security is stubborn. If you reset the hardware without unlinking the software, the iPad will demand your password during the next person's setup process.
- Go to Settings.
- Tap your name at the very top.
- Hit "Find My" and toggle it off. You'll need your Apple ID password here.
- Go back to the main Apple ID screen and sign out entirely.
Now, you're actually ready to wipe the thing.
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How to completely reset iPad using the Settings menu
This is the standard path. It’s what 99% of people should do. It uses the iPad’s internal "Secure Enclave" to basically toss the encryption keys. Once those keys are gone, the data on the chip is unreadable gibberish.
Open Settings, then tap General. Scroll all the way down. You’re looking for Transfer or Reset iPad. Apple changed the wording a few years ago to make it more "user-friendly," but it just added an extra tap.
Once you’re in that menu, you'll see two options. One says "Reset" and the other says "Erase All Content and Settings."
Ignore the first one. The "Reset" button is a scalpel; it resets things like network settings or the keyboard dictionary. You want the sledgehammer. Tap Erase All Content and Settings.
The iPad will show you a summary of what’s being removed: your apps, your data, your eSIM (if you have a cellular model), and your Apple ID link. Hit continue. It might ask for your passcode one last time. Then, the screen goes black, an Apple logo appears with a progress bar, and you’re done. When it boots back up to the "Hello" screen in thirty different languages, you've successfully finished the process.
What if the iPad is disabled or the screen is black?
This is where things get annoying. Maybe the digitizer died and you can't tap the buttons. Or maybe your kid entered the wrong passcode ten times and now it says "iPad Unavailable."
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You need a computer. A Mac is easiest because it's built-in, but a PC with iTunes (or the newer Apple Devices app) works too.
You have to put the iPad into Recovery Mode. This feels like a secret cheat code. For iPads without a Home button—which is basically every model sold in the last few years—you do a little dance:
- Press and quickly release the Volume Up button.
- Press and quickly release the Volume Down button.
- Press and hold the Top button until you see the recovery mode screen (a picture of a laptop and a cable).
Don't let go when you see the Apple logo. Keep holding.
Once you're in Recovery Mode, plug it into your computer. A window will pop up asking if you want to Update or Restore. Restore is what you want. This downloads a fresh copy of iPadOS and force-installs it, wiping everything in its path. It takes a while because the file is several gigabytes. If the iPad exits recovery mode while the download is happening (it times out after 15 minutes), just wait for the download to finish and do the button dance again.
Resetting via iCloud.com (The "Remote Wipe")
I once left an iPad in a hotel room in Chicago. By the time I realized it, I was already at O'Hare. I didn't want the cleaning staff or the next guest poking through my banking apps.
If you still have the device registered in your Find My network, you can wipe it from your phone or any web browser. Go to iCloud.com/find, log in, select your iPad from the list of "All Devices," and click Erase iPad.
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The moment that iPad connects to Wi-Fi, it will receive the "kill signal" and start the erase process automatically. It’s a lifesaver. Just remember that once you erase it this way, you can no longer track its location. It's a trade-off: security vs. recovery.
The "E-E-A-T" Reality Check: Common Mistakes
People often think that deleting their photos manually or signing out of apps is the same as a reset. It’s not. There are cached files, login tokens, and system logs buried in the file system that only a factory reset clears.
Also, a huge misconception: "Will this delete my iCloud backups?"
No.
Resetting the hardware does not touch what is stored in the cloud. Your photos are safe in Apple's data centers. You're just cutting the cord between this specific piece of aluminum and your digital life.
If you’re dealing with a managed device—like one from a school or a job—a standard reset might not work. These often have MDM (Mobile Device Management) profiles. You can wipe the data, but as soon as the iPad restarts, it will phone home to the company server and re-install their restrictions. If you bought a used iPad and it says "Remote Management," you've been scammed or someone forgot to offboard the device. You can't bypass this yourself; the original owner has to release it from their management portal.
Dealing with the eSIM Trap
If you have a cellular iPad, pay attention. During the reset process, the iPad will ask if you want to Keep or Delete your Data Plan.
If you're keeping the iPad and just fixing a bug, keep the plan. If you're selling it, for the love of everything holy, delete the plan. If you don't, the new owner might be able to use your data on your dime, or at the very least, you'll have a headache trying to transfer that line to a new device later. Carriers like Verizon and AT&T are notoriously picky about "ghost" eSIMs still attached to old serial numbers.
Summary of Actionable Steps
Stop searching for "how to completely reset ipad" and just follow this checklist.
- Backup first. Check Settings > [Name] > iCloud > iCloud Backup. If it hasn't backed up in 24 hours, hit "Back Up Now."
- Unpair your Apple Watch if it was synced specifically to that iPad (rare, but happens with some fitness setups).
- Turn off Find My. This is the most important step for resale value.
- Sign out of the App Store and iCloud.
- Trigger the Erase. Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPad > Erase All Content and Settings.
- Check the eSIM. Choose "Erase All & Delete Data Plan" if selling.
- Physical Clean. Use a 70% isopropyl alcohol wipe on the screen and chassis. A clean iPad literally sells for 20% more than a greasy one.
If the iPad is stuck on a logo or won't turn on, use the Recovery Mode method with a USB-C cable. Ensure you’re using a high-quality data cable; those cheap charging cables from the gas station often fail during the data-heavy Restore process. Once the "Hello" screen appears, the device is officially "clean." You can now safely put it in a box, trade it in, or set it up as a brand-new device without any of your old digital baggage dragging it down.