So, you finally copped a pair of Denim Tears. Tremaine Emory’s Cotton Wreath design is iconic, but honestly, it’s a nightmare to maintain if you don’t know what you’re doing. You spent three hundred bucks—maybe way more on the secondary market—and the last thing you want is for those puff-printed wreaths to start cracking or peeling after one trip through the wash. Most people treat them like regular Levi’s. Huge mistake.
Denim is tough. The print? Not so much.
The reality is that how to clean Denim Tears shorts isn't just about getting dirt out of the fabric; it's a delicate balancing act between keeping the denim rigid and protecting that thick, 3D screen print. If you throw these in a hot dryer, you’re basically asking for a disaster. The heat melts the adhesive in the ink. Then, you pull them out and see those tiny spiderweb cracks. Heartbreaking.
Why Your Washing Machine is the Enemy
Stop using the heavy-duty cycle. Seriously. Your washing machine is a giant metal drum that beats your clothes against each other. For a pair of $40 shorts from a big-box store, that’s fine. For Denim Tears, that friction is the primary cause of "fuzzing" on the print.
You’ve got to turn them inside out. Always. This is the golden rule. By flipping the shorts, the denim takes the brunt of the agitation while the puff-print wreaths stay tucked away. It’s a simple move, but it doubles the life of the garment.
Cold water is your only option. Heat is the enemy of raw denim and graphic prints alike. Cold water prevents the indigo dye from bleeding too much and ensures the puff print stays bonded to the cotton fibers. If you use warm water, you're risking shrinkage that will distort the shape of the wreaths, making them look wonky and off-center.
The Detergent Dilemma
Most people grab whatever is on sale at the grocery store. Don’t do that. Cheap detergents often have "optical brighteners" or harsh bleaching agents. These are great for making gym socks look white, but they’ll eat right through the pigment of your Denim Tears.
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Look for something like Woolite Dark or a specialized denim wash like the ones from The Laundress. These are formulated to keep the indigo in the threads rather than letting it wash down the drain. You only need a tiny bit. Over-sudsing actually makes it harder to rinse the soap out, and dried soap residue can make the denim feel crunchy and look dull.
The Hand Wash Method: The Pro Choice
If you really care about longevity, you’re going to have to get your hands wet. It’s tedious. I get it. But it’s the only way to guarantee 100% control over the process.
- Fill a clean bathtub or a large plastic bin with lukewarm to cold water.
- Add a tablespoon of mild detergent. Stir it around until it’s dissolved.
- Submerge the shorts. Don't scrub them like you're cleaning a floor. Just gently agitate them with your hands.
- Let them soak for about 20 to 30 minutes. This is usually enough time for the soap to break down skin oils and dust.
- Drain the soapy water and refill with fresh, cold water to rinse. Do this until the bubbles are gone.
Whatever you do, don't wring them out. Wringing creates massive amounts of internal stress on the fabric. You’ll end up with weird streaks in the denim and cracked prints. Instead, lay them flat on a white towel, roll the towel up like a sleeping bag, and press down to squeeze out the excess moisture.
Dealing With Stains on the Cotton Wreath
Accidents happen. Maybe it's a drop of sauce or some dirt from the park. The temptation is to grab a Tide pen and go to town. Don't. Those pens often contain peroxide-based bleaches. If you hit the white puff print with one, it might be fine, but if you slip and hit the blue denim, you’ll leave a permanent orange or white bleach spot.
For spot cleaning, use a soft-bristled toothbrush. A little bit of diluted Dawn dish soap works wonders on grease. Gently—and I mean gently—dab the stain. Work from the outside in so you don't spread the mess. If the stain is on the print itself, use even less pressure. The print is a raised surface, and if you scrub too hard, you’ll literally peel the ink off the denim.
The Drying Process: Where Most People Fail
Never, under any circumstances, put Denim Tears shorts in the dryer. The dryer is a coffin for streetwear.
Even on "low heat," the temperature inside a dryer can reach 125 degrees Fahrenheit. That’s more than enough to soften the plasticizers in screen-print ink. When the ink softens and then tumbles against the hot metal drum, it starts to flake.
Air drying is the only way.
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Hang them by the belt loops using a clip hanger, or better yet, lay them flat on a drying rack. Laying them flat is superior because it prevents the weight of the wet denim from stretching the waistband or the leg openings. Keep them out of direct sunlight. The sun’s UV rays act like a natural bleach and will fade your dark indigo to a dusty grey in just a few hours. A cool, shady spot with good airflow is perfect.
That "Crunchy" Feeling
When denim air dries, it usually feels stiff. Some people hate this and think they need fabric softener. Avoid fabric softener like the plague. It coats the fibers in a waxy chemical that actually makes the denim less breathable and can cause the puff print to lose its adhesion over time.
If they feel too stiff, just wear them. Within 20 minutes of movement, your body heat and natural motion will soften the cotton back up. It’s part of the raw denim experience.
Frequency: How Often Is Too Often?
You aren't supposed to wash denim every time you wear it. Denim Tears, specifically the Levi's collaborations, use high-quality cotton that is designed to mold to your body. Every wash strips a bit of that character away.
Basically, if they don't smell and they aren't visibly filthy, leave them alone.
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Some people swear by the "freezer trick" to kill bacteria. Honestly? It doesn't work. Science shows that most bacteria just go dormant in the freezer and wake right back up once the shorts hit room temperature. If they smell a bit funky, hang them outside in the breeze for an hour or use a light spritz of a fabric refresher—just make sure you aren't soaking the print.
Real-World Advice for Longevity
I’ve seen guys ruin their pairs in six months and others who have pairs from the 2020 drops that still look brand new. The difference is almost always the wash cycle.
- Storage matters. Don't fold them in a way that creases the wreaths. Constant creasing in the same spot will eventually lead to the print cracking along that line. Hang them up.
- Watch the friction. If you're wearing a bag with a strap that rubs against your hip, it's going to "sand" the print off over time.
- Rotate your wears. Don't wear the same shorts five days a week. Give the fibers time to "rest" and snap back into shape.
Actionable Next Steps
To keep your Denim Tears in peak condition starting today, follow this immediate checklist:
- Audit your detergent: If your current soap has "Oxi" or "Bleach Alternatives," go buy a bottle of pH-neutral delicate wash.
- Flip them now: Turn your shorts inside out and store them that way so they're ready for the next wash.
- Invest in a drying rack: Stop relying on the shower rod; a flat drying rack prevents the fabric from stretching and protects the silhouette of the shorts.
- Buy a soft toothbrush: Keep one in your laundry kit specifically for gentle spot cleaning so you aren't tempted to use a rough rag or chemical pens.