You’re standing at the kitchen sink, trying to fill a pot for pasta, and the water is doing that annoying thing where it sprays sideways or barely trickles out. It’s frustrating. Most people assume the plumbing is shot or the local water pressure is tanking, but honestly, it’s usually just a tiny, crusty screen at the tip of your spout. That’s the aerator. Its job is to mix air with water to give you a steady stream and save on your utility bill, but it also acts like a net for every bit of sediment and mineral scale traveling through your pipes.
Cleaning it is a ten-minute job, yet hardly anyone does it until the water pressure gets truly pathetic.
Why Your Faucet Aerator Gets So Gross
Calcium carbonate is the main culprit here. If you live in a city like Indianapolis or San Antonio—places notorious for hard water—your aerator is basically a magnet for scale. According to the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), hard water contains high concentrations of dissolved minerals, specifically calcium and magnesium. When water sits in the aerator mesh after you turn off the tap, it evaporates, leaving those minerals behind. Over months, they harden into a rock-like crust that chokes the flow.
It isn't just minerals, though. Sometimes, if there’s been construction on your street or a water main break nearby, tiny bits of grit or even rust from aging galvanized pipes end up trapped in that screen. I’ve seen aerators pulled out of old Victorian homes that were packed with what looked like orange sand. If you don't clear that out, you’re basically forcing your water to filter through a layer of debris every time you brush your teeth.
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How to Clean a Faucet Aerator: The Step-by-Step Reality
First, close the drain. Do it now. If you drop a tiny washer or the mesh screen down the pipes, your ten-minute fix becomes a two-hour plumbing nightmare involving a P-trap disassembly. Just flip the stopper or put a washcloth over the hole.
Now, try to unscrew the aerator by hand. Most are designed to be "finger-tight," but years of mineral buildup act like a natural glue. If it won't budge, don't just grab a pair of pliers and go to town. You’ll scratch the finish. Wrap a thick rubber band around the metal housing first, or use a piece of electrical tape. This gives your pliers grip without chewing up the chrome or matte black finish. Use a wrench or pliers to turn it counter-clockwise.
Once it’s off, you'll likely see a stack of parts: a rubber washer, a plastic mixer, and the metal or plastic screen. Keep them in order. Layout is everything.
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The Vinegar Soak Method
Don't bother scrubbing with a dry toothbrush yet. You’ll just bend the mesh. Instead, drop the pieces into a small bowl of plain white distilled vinegar. Vinegar is roughly 5% acetic acid, which is just strong enough to dissolve calcium deposits without eating through your plastic components.
Let it sit.
If the buildup is heavy, leave it for at least an hour. For those "I haven't cleaned this since the Bush administration" levels of crust, soak it overnight. You’ll know it’s working when you see tiny bubbles—that’s the acid reacting with the calcium carbonate. When you pull it out, the gunk should be soft. Now you can use that old toothbrush. Lightly brush the mesh. If some holes are still plugged, a sewing needle or a safety pin works wonders to poke through the stubborn bits.
What if the Aerator is Recessed?
Some modern, high-end faucets from brands like Delta or Moen use "cache" aerators. These are hidden inside the spout and don't have a metal rim you can grab with pliers. You need a specific plastic key to get them out. If you lost the one that came with the faucet, you can usually buy a multi-pack of aerator keys at a hardware store for five bucks. Without the key, you’re basically stuck trying to jam two flathead screwdrivers in there, which I promise will result in a scratched faucet and a lot of swearing.
Dealing with Internal Damage
Sometimes you take it apart and realize the plastic is cracked or the screen is actually corroded. If the metal mesh has holes in it, cleaning won't help. You’re better off just replacing it. Most aerators are standard sizes—usually 55/64" for "regular" or 13/16" for "small." Take the old one with you to the store.
Also, pay attention to the GPM (gallons per minute) rating stamped on the side. If you buy a 1.0 GPM aerator to replace a 2.2 GPM one, your water flow will feel noticeably weaker. If you like a powerful blast for rinsing dishes, stick with the higher number allowed by your local building codes.
Reassembly is Where People Mess Up
Rinse everything in clear water before putting it back together. Put the screen in, then the mixer, then the rubber washer on top. The washer is what prevents leaks from the side of the aerator. Screw it back on by hand. You should not need tools to tighten it. If it’s leaking from the threads when you turn the water on, it’s probably cross-threaded or the washer isn't sitting flat. Back it off and try again.
Actionable Maintenance Moving Forward
- Set a Calendar Reminder: If you have hard water, do this every six months. It prevents the "welded shut" situation where you can't get the aerator off at all.
- Check Your Water Heater: If you find a lot of white, chunky "sand" in your aerator, it might not be your pipes. It could be your water heater's dip tube disintegrating or massive sediment buildup in the tank. If the aerator clogs again within a week, flush your water heater.
- The Baggy Trick: If you can't get the aerator off and you're scared of breaking it, fill a small plastic bag with vinegar, zip-tie it around the faucet head so the aerator is submerged, and let it sit for two hours. It’s not as effective as a full disassembly, but it’ll clear most of the blockage.
Once you’ve cleared the debris, the difference is immediate. The stream will be straight, quiet, and splash-free. It’s one of those rare home maintenance tasks that offers instant gratification for almost zero cost.