You're crouched on the carpet, clicking your tongue or whistling, expecting your rabbit to trot over like a golden retriever. Instead, they give you a flick of their back feet—basically the bunny middle finger—and retreat under the sofa. It’s frustrating. Honestly, it’s kinda humbling too. Most people think learning how to call a bunny is just about finding the right "pspsps" sound, but rabbits aren’t tiny dogs. They’re prey animals. Their entire evolutionary blueprint is designed to interpret a giant human looming over them as a hawk or a coyote. If you want them to come when called, you have to stop acting like a predator and start acting like a really high-quality vending machine.
I’ve spent years watching lagomorph behavior, and the biggest mistake is the "chase." You think you’re playing; they think they’re dying. To actually get a rabbit to move toward you, you need to exploit their natural curiosity and their absolute lack of impulse control regarding dried herbs. It takes patience. A lot of it. But once you crack the code, having a three-pound ball of fluff sprint across the room because you whispered their name is one of the most rewarding feelings in the world.
Why your rabbit ignores you (It’s not just attitude)
Rabbits are brilliant, but they are also incredibly suspicious. In the wild, if something loud calls your name, you don't go check it out. You run. House rabbits carry this baggage. According to the House Rabbit Society, rabbits communicate primarily through body language and scent, not vocalization. This means your voice is often just "noise" until you give it a specific, consistent meaning.
They have nearly 360-degree vision, but a blind spot right in front of their nose. If you approach them head-on while calling them, you’re basically a jump-scare. They don't see your smiling face; they see a massive shadow.
Sound frequency matters
High-pitched, squeaky noises are usually better. Lower tones can mimic the growl of a predator or the thrum of a large animal's footsteps. When I say "come here," I keep it soft. No shouting. If you use a sharp, loud tone, the rabbit's stress hormones—cortisol and adrenaline—spike. Once that happens, the learning part of their brain shuts down. They are in survival mode now.
You've gotta be consistent. Pick one word. Not "Bunny," "Floof," and "Barnaby." Just one. Stick to it like glue.
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The mechanics of how to call a bunny effectively
Training a rabbit is all about classical conditioning. Think Pavlov. You want the sound of your voice to trigger a literal mouth-watering response.
Start small. I mean really small. Sit on the floor. Don’t stand. When you are six feet tall, you are a titan. When you are sitting on the rug, you’re just a weirdly shaped roommate.
The "Treat-Voice" Loop
- Get the goods. Use something high-value. I’m talking fresh cilantro, a tiny slice of banana (the "bunny crack"), or a pellet.
- The Bridge. Say the bunny's name or your chosen command right as they take the treat. Not before. Not after.
- The Distance. Once they associate the word with the flavor, back up six inches. Call them.
- The Payoff. When they take those tiny hops toward you, give them the treat immediately.
If they don't move? Don't move toward them. That ruins the game. Just wait. Or better yet, crinkle a bag. Most rabbits are conditioned to the sound of a kale bag from birth. Use that to your advantage. Crinkle, call the name, give the treat. Eventually, you can phase out the crinkle and just use the name.
Be careful with the "Pick Up"
Here is where most owners fail. They call the bunny over, the bunny comes, and then the owner picks them up. To a rabbit, being lifted off the ground feels like being snatched by an owl. If every time they "come" they get "snatched," they will stop coming. Simple math. Only pick them up when absolutely necessary. Usually, when they come to you, just offer a head scratch (forehead and ears only, please) and a snack.
Handling the "Selective Hearing" phase
Rabbits are famously stubborn. Dr. Anne McBride, a researcher in animal behavior, notes that rabbits are highly motivated by social interaction, but only on their terms. If your rabbit is busy grooming their paws or "redecorating" a cardboard box, they aren't going to come. They're busy.
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You’ll know they heard you because their ears will swivel like radar dishes. One ear might point back toward you while their head stays fixed on the task at hand. That’s them acknowledging the ping but hitting "ignore."
Don't take it personally.
When this happens, you have to increase the value of the bribe. If cilantro isn't working, it’s time for the heavy hitters: dried apple rings or a single pea flake. Pea flakes are the ultimate currency in the rabbit world. They’re crunchy, easy to store, and rabbits lose their minds for them.
Advanced techniques: Clicker training and hand signals
If your rabbit is deaf or just particularly "voice-blind," hand signals are a godsend. Rabbits see movement extremely well. A simple flick of the fingers or a tapping motion on the floor provides a visual cue that cuts through the noise.
I’ve seen great success combining a clicker—the same ones used for dogs—with the calling process. The "click" is a distinct, non-human sound that always means a treat is coming.
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- Click + Name + Treat.
- Repeat 50 times over a week.
- Suddenly, your rabbit is a heat-seeking missile for that clicker.
The Nose-Targeting Trick
Try teaching them to touch their nose to your finger. It's a precursor to calling them. Hold your finger out. When they sniff it, say "Yes!" and treat. Once they do this reliably, move your finger further away. Now, calling them becomes a game of "touch the target." It gives them a job to do. Rabbits love jobs. It makes them feel secure.
What to do when they just won't budge
Sometimes, a rabbit just isn't in the mood. If they’ve just finished a big meal of hay, they're probably heading for a "loaf" or a "flop." When a rabbit flops onto their side, they are off duty. Calling them during a flop is rude in bunny language.
Check the environment too. Is the floor slippery? Many rabbits hate hardwood or tile because they can’t get any traction. If they feel like they’re going to slide, they won't run to you. Put down some area rugs or yoga mats. A "bunny highway" of non-slip surfaces will drastically increase the chances of them coming when called.
Also, look at your body language. Are your shoulders tense? Are you staring them down? Direct eye contact is a threat in the wild. Try looking slightly to the side. Use a "soft" gaze. It signals that you aren't hunting them.
Practical next steps for bunny owners
Training isn't a one-time event; it's a lifestyle change. If you want a rabbit that listens, you have to be the most interesting thing in the room.
- Audit your treats: Stop giving them "treat sticks" from the pet store that are full of honey and seeds. Those are junk. Stick to small bits of fresh herbs like dill, mint, or basil.
- Floor time is mandatory: Spend at least 30 minutes a day just lying on the floor. Don't try to pet them. Just exist. Let them hop over you. This builds the "baseline of safety" required for training.
- The "Three-Second Rule": When you call them and they come, give the reward within three seconds. Any longer and they’ve already forgotten why they walked over.
- Keep sessions short: Two to five minutes. That’s it. Rabbits have the attention span of a goldfish on espresso. If you push it too long, they get bored and hop away to go chin a chair leg.
Consistency is the only way forward. If you call them every morning before breakfast, they’ll learn the routine within two weeks. They’ll start anticipating the call, sometimes even waiting by your feet before you open your mouth. That's the goal. You aren't just calling a pet; you're building a language between two species that see the world in totally opposite ways.