Honestly, most people fail at pin curls before they even start because they’re using the wrong hardware. You see it on TikTok all the time—someone tries to recreate a 1940s vintage wave using those massive, plastic butterfly clips or, even worse, flimsy bobby pins that leave a giant, ugly dent right in the middle of the curl. It’s frustrating. You spend forty minutes sectioning your hair, sleep in discomfort, and wake up looking like you had a literal accident with a crimping iron.
The truth is that hair clips for pin curls are not a "one size fits all" situation. If you use a clip with a high tension spring on a damp set, you’re going to get a mechanical mark that no amount of brushing will fix. Professionals like Chris Appleton or vintage specialists like Cherry Dollface don’t just grab whatever is in the drawer; they choose the clip based on the weight of the hair and the desired "swing" of the curl.
The Aluminum vs. Steel Debate
Most of the silver clips you see at Sally Beauty or on Amazon look identical. They aren't.
Double-prong clips are the industry standard for a reason. They have two flat "teeth" that slide over the rolled curl, distributing pressure across a wider surface area. This is huge. If you use a single-prong clip, the pressure is concentrated on one tiny point, which almost guarantees a crease. Aluminum clips are lightweight. That's their superpower. If you’re doing a full head of thirty or forty curls, using heavy steel clips will literally weigh your hair down, pulling the root flat and ruining the volume before the hair even dries.
However, steel clips have better "grip." If you have incredibly thick, coarse hair that tends to spring out of its roll, aluminum might be too weak. You’ll find yourself constantly re-clipping.
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Why Your Pin Curls Keep Sagging
It’s usually the placement. Or the dampness. Usually both.
If you clip the curl at the bottom, gravity wins. Every single time. You have to anchor the hair clips for pin curls at the "12 o’clock" position or diagonally through the center, catching the hair that is closest to the scalp. This creates a foundation. Think of it like a kickstand on a bike. If the kickstand is too far back, the bike falls.
Also, let's talk about the "crunch" factor. People love to soak their hair in setting lotion—something like Lottabody is a classic—but if you clip soaking wet hair, the metal can actually oxidize or cause the hair to dry unevenly around the metal. You want "bottled damp," not "shower wet."
The Duckbill Myth
I see people using long duckbill clips for pin curls and it drives me crazy. Duckbill clips are for sectioning. They are for holding hair out of the way while you work. They are far too long for a standard pin curl. When you use a three-inch duckbill on a one-inch curl, the tail of the clip pokes out, gets caught in your pillow, or knocks the neighboring curls loose. Stick to the short, 1.75-inch double-prong clips. They are low profile. They stay out of the way.
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Real-World Troubleshooting: The Dent Problem
If you’re still getting dents despite using double-prong clips, here’s a pro trick: tissue paper.
It sounds tedious. It kind of is. But if you fold a small square of end paper (the kind used for perms) over the hair before you slide the clip on, you create a buffer. This is how stylists on high-budget period dramas like The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel ensure the actors' hair looks flawless under 4K cameras.
- Roll the curl.
- Place a small strip of paper over the top.
- Slide the clip over the paper.
The paper absorbs the direct pressure of the metal. It also helps absorb any excess moisture, which speeds up drying time.
Choosing Your Metal
- Anodized Aluminum: Best for fine hair. Won't rust if you use water-based setting sprays.
- Nickel-Plated Steel: Best for thick or long hair. Be careful, as these can rust over time if you leave them in a damp bathroom.
- Plastic "Crocodile" Clips: Just don't. They are too bulky for sleeping and the "teeth" will shred your curl pattern when you try to slide them out.
The Directional Science Most People Ignore
Which way are you rolling? It matters more than the clip itself.
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Clockwise rolls create a different "flick" than counter-clockwise rolls. If you want the hair to move toward your face, you roll downward and toward the nose. If you want that classic "Farrah" volume that kicks back, you roll away. The hair clips for pin curls should always be inserted in the direction of the roll. If you roll clockwise and shove the clip in from the left, you’re fighting the tension of the hair. You’re basically inviting the curl to frizz.
Maintenance and Longevity
Don't just throw your clips in a drawer where they can get bent. A bent clip is a useless clip. If the two prongs don't meet perfectly at the tip, they will snag the hair cuticle when you pull them out. You'll hear that "rrrrip" sound. That’s the sound of split ends being created in real-time.
Check your clips every few months. If they’re losing their spring or the coating is chipping off, toss them. They’re cheap enough that it isn't worth the hair damage.
Actionable Next Steps for a Perfect Set
To get the best results, start by prepping your hair with a light setting lotion—not a modern hairspray, which is too "gluey" for a wet set. Section your hair into even squares; if your sections are messy, your curls will be messy. Roll the hair smoothly from the ends to the scalp, ensuring the ends are tucked inside so they don't become "fishhooks."
Secure the curl using a double-prong aluminum clip, inserting it horizontally or at a slight downward angle for maximum security. If you’re sleeping on the set, wrap your head in a silk scarf or a "gnome" net. This prevents the clips from shifting against your pillow. In the morning, ensure the hair is 100% dry—cool to the touch, not cold (cold often means it's still slightly damp)—before removing the clips. Remove them gently, one by one, and let the curls hang for five minutes to "settle" before you even think about touching them with a brush.
When you finally do brush out, use a boar bristle brush to help the individual curls "clump" together into those iconic, uniform waves.