You're standing at the edge of your property, looking down at that gray, thirsty-looking stretch of asphalt. It’s cracked. It’s faded. Honestly, it looks like a topographical map of the moon. You know it needs help, but you're probably dreading the bill because every website gives you a different number. Some say five hundred bucks, others say five thousand. So, how much to reseal a driveway in the real world?
It depends. I know, you hate that answer. Everyone does. But if you're looking for a quick "ballpark," most homeowners in 2026 are shelling out anywhere from $0.20 to $0.70 per square foot. For a standard two-car driveway that’s maybe 400 to 600 square feet, you’re likely looking at a range of $150 to $500 for a professional job. But that’s just the base layer. If your driveway looks like it survived a meteor shower, those cracks are going to eat your budget alive.
Why the Price Tags Swing So Wildly
Let's talk about the "why." You see, sealing a driveway isn't just about mopping on some black goo and calling it a day. The price is a cocktail of labor, material quality, and how much prep work the crew actually has to do. If you have a brand-new driveway that just needs its first coat, it’s cheap. If you have oil stains from that leaky '98 truck and weeds growing through three-inch fissures, the price jumps.
Materials matter a ton here. You’ve got coal tar sealers, which are the old-school heavy hitters, though they’re getting banned in more places because of environmental concerns. Then there’s asphalt emulsion, which is much friendlier to the planet but sometimes doesn't last quite as long in extreme heat. More recently, we’re seeing acrylic-based sealers that can actually be tinted. They look great, but they’ll make your wallet cry—expect to pay double for those.
The Hidden Cost of Prep Work
Most people forget about the cleaning. You can't just pour sealer over dirt. Professionals usually use high-powered blowers and stiff wire brushes. If they have to use a pressure washer, they have to wait for the asphalt to be bone-dry before sealing. That adds time. And time is money.
Then there are the cracks. Crack filling is usually priced by the linear foot or a flat "add-on" fee. If you skip this, the sealer will just fall into the holes and disappear, leaving the structure of your driveway vulnerable to water. Once water gets under the asphalt and freezes? Game over. You aren't resealing anymore; you're replacing the whole thing for $10,000.
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How Much to Reseal a Driveway: DIY vs. Professional
Is it worth doing yourself? Maybe.
If you go to a big-box store like Home Depot or Lowe’s, a 5-gallon bucket of decent sealer costs about $30 to $60. One bucket covers roughly 300 to 500 square feet. Add in a squeegee, some cleaner, and crack filler, and you might get away with spending $100 to $150 total.
But here’s the catch. DIY sealer is often thinner. It’s "consumer grade." Pros use commercial-grade mixtures, often reinforced with sand for traction and slate for durability. Also, let's be real: it is a filthy, back-breaking job. If you mess up and get sealer on your concrete sidewalk or the brick siding of your house? That stuff doesn't come off. Ever.
Pros bring the big tanks. They spray or squeegee with a level of uniformity that’s hard to hit when you’re sweating in the sun on a Saturday morning. According to data from sites like Angi and HomeAdvisor, the majority of homeowners still opt for pros because the "mess factor" is just too high.
Regional Price Creep
Where you live changes everything. If you're in a high-cost area like New York or San Francisco, don't be surprised if those "national averages" look like a joke. Labor rates in metro areas can easily double the cost. Conversely, in the rural Midwest, you might find a local guy with a truck who will do it for a couple hundred bucks and a handshake. Just make sure they aren't "gypsy sealers"—scammers who travel around with watered-down oil that washes away in the first rain.
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The Logistics of the Job
How often should you be doing this? Most experts, including those from the Asphalt Institute, suggest resealing every three to five years. Doing it every year is actually bad for the driveway. Too much sealer builds up and starts to flake off like old skin. It looks terrible.
Wait for the weather. You need a window where it’s at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit and won't rain for 24 to 48 hours. If the contractor says they can do it while it’s misting out? Fire them.
Identifying the Red Flags
When you’re getting quotes, watch out for the "spray-only" guys. Spraying is fast, sure. But for older driveways, a squeegee application is almost always better. It forces the sealer into the pores of the asphalt. A combination of both—spray for the finish and squeegee for the base—is the gold standard.
Ask about the solids content. A cheap sealer is mostly water. You want something with a high percentage of solids so that once the liquid evaporates, you’re left with a thick, protective shell. If a contractor can't tell you what brand of sealer they use, keep looking.
Concrete is a Different Beast
If you're reading this and thinking, "Wait, my driveway is concrete," the math changes. Concrete isn't "sealed" the same way. It uses clear penetrating sealers to prevent salt damage and staining. This is usually cheaper per square foot—think $0.15 to $0.30—but it doesn't "beautify" the driveway in the same way black asphalt sealer does. It’s purely functional.
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Breaking Down a Typical Invoice
Let's look at a hypothetical (but very realistic) 500-square-foot driveway.
First, the base seal. At $0.40 a foot, that's $200. Then, the contractor spots about 50 feet of significant cracking. They charge $1.50 per linear foot for hot-rubberized crack filling. That’s another $75. Finally, there’s a nasty oil spot from your lawnmower. They need a primer for that so the sealer sticks. Add $25. Your total is $300.
For that $300, you’ve basically bought yourself another five years of life for your pavement. Given that a full tear-out and repave can cost **$15 per square foot**, spending $300 now to avoid a $7,500 bill later is just smart math.
Actionable Steps for Your Driveway
If you're ready to pull the trigger, don't just call the first number on a lawn sign. Start by measuring. Use a rolling tape or just pace it out so you know your square footage. It stops contractors from "eyeballing" a higher price.
- Check the 48-hour forecast. You need dry pavement and no rain for at least a full day after the job is done.
- Clear the edges. Take a weed whacker and trim the grass back from the edges of the driveway. Contractors love this, and it ensures they seal the very edge where crumbling usually starts.
- Ask for "Hot Rubber." If you have cracks, insist on hot-poured rubber filler rather than the cold stuff in a tube. It expands and contracts with the seasons much better.
- Verify insurance. This sounds boring, but if a worker slips or sprays sealer on your neighbor's Tesla, you don't want to be the one holding the bill.
- Get it in writing. Ensure the quote specifies how many coats they are applying. One coat is standard, but two is better for high-traffic areas or driveways that haven't been touched in a decade.
Resealing is one of those rare home maintenance tasks that actually provides an immediate "wow" factor. It’s the curb appeal equivalent of a fresh haircut. It looks sharp, it protects your investment, and as long as you know the real numbers, you won't get taken for a ride.