You’re standing on your lawn, squinting at that peeling gray paint, and wondering if you can ignore it for another season. You can’t.
Water is already getting into those hairline cracks in the siding.
So, you start Googling how much to paint house exterior and you see these wild, confusing ranges. One site says $2,000. Another says $12,000. Why is the gap so massive? Honestly, it’s because most online "cost estimators" are basically guessing based on averages that don't account for the actual state of your home.
The national average in the United States currently hovers around $3,000 to $4,500 for a standard two-story home, but that number is kind of a trap. If you have lead paint, cedar shingles, or a Victorian with twelve different trim colors, that "average" is gone.
The Real Numbers Behind the Estimates
Let’s get real about the math. Most professional painters don't just look at square footage; they look at "paintable surface area" and the "difficulty tax."
For a small, single-story rancher (maybe 1,000 to 1,500 square feet), you might get away with spending $2,500. It’s a straightforward job. But once you move into the 2,500-square-foot territory with two levels, you’re looking at a jump to $4,000 or $7,000. Why? Ladders. Insurance. Risk.
Time is the biggest expense.
Labor usually accounts for about 70% to 80% of your total bill. Materials—the actual buckets of paint, the tape, the primer—are only about 20%. When you ask how much to paint house exterior, you’re really asking how many hours a crew of three people will spend scraping, sanding, and spraying your walls.
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Material Costs and the "Cheap Paint" Myth
You might be tempted to save $200 by buying the mid-grade paint at a big-box store. Don't.
Premium paints like Sherwin-Williams Emerald or Benjamin Moore Aura cost more upfront (sometimes $80-$100 per gallon), but they have higher solids content. This means they cover better and last years longer. If you use cheap paint, you’ll be asking the same cost questions again in four years instead of ten.
You’ll typically need 15 to 20 gallons for an average home. Do the math: $1,500 just for high-quality liquids isn't unheard of.
Why Your Siding Type Changes Everything
Stucco is a sponge.
If you have a stucco exterior, you aren't just "painting" it; you're often applying an elastomeric coating that fills those tiny pores. It’s thicker. It’s more expensive. And it takes forever to roll out. Expect to pay a premium of 20% over standard wood siding.
Wood siding requires the most prep. You have to look for rot. If a painter finds soft wood under your eaves, the "painting" job suddenly becomes a "carpentry and painting" job.
- Vinyl Siding: Usually the cheapest to refresh because it’s smooth and takes paint well.
- Brick: Requires masonry sealer and specific alkaline-resistant primers.
- Metal/Aluminum: Needs specialized DTM (Direct To Metal) coatings so the paint doesn't peel off in sheets when the sun hits it.
Then there's the trim. Most people forget that windows, doors, soffits, and fascia are usually painted in a different color and a different sheen. This requires "cutting in" by hand with a brush. It’s slow. It’s tedious. It's expensive.
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The Preparation "Black Hole"
This is where your budget goes to die.
If your house was built before 1978, there’s a high probability of lead-based paint. Professionals have to follow RRP (Renovation, Repair, and Painting) Rule protocols from the EPA. This involves plastic sheeting, HEPA vacuums, and specific disposal methods. It can easily add $2,000 to $5,000 to a quote just for safety compliance.
Even without lead, the prep work is what makes a paint job look good.
Power washing is the bare minimum. You need a day for the house to dry. Then comes the scraping. Then the sanding. Then the caulking of every single gap where water could sneak in. If a contractor says they can "start and finish in two days," they are skipping the prep. Run away.
Regional Pricing and the "Busy Season"
Where you live matters almost as much as what you live in.
In high-cost-of-living areas like San Francisco or New York, labor rates can be double what you’d find in the rural Midwest. Painters in the Northeast have a very narrow "weather window"—basically May through October. Because demand is so high during those months, prices spike.
If you want a deal, try booking your estimate in January for a late April start. Contractors like having their calendar filled early, and you might snag a "pre-season" discount.
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What Most People Get Wrong About Quotes
Don't just look at the bottom number.
A $3,000 quote might only cover one coat of paint with no primer. A $6,000 quote might include a full power wash, two coats of premium paint, a 5-year warranty, and the replacement of minor rotted trim boards.
The $6,000 quote is actually the better value.
Ask these specific questions to keep the price honest:
- How many coats are included? (Always get two).
- Is the cost of the paint included in the labor?
- What specific brand and line of paint will be used?
- How do you handle rotted wood discovered mid-project?
- Are you insured for workers' comp? (If a painter falls off a ladder on your property and isn't insured, you are the one paying the medical bills).
The DIY Reality Check
Thinking of doing it yourself to save money? It’s a noble goal.
But consider the equipment. To do a professional-grade job, you need a high-end airless sprayer ($500+ to rent or buy), 28-foot extension ladders ($400), scaffolding, drops cloths, and about 60 to 80 hours of your life. For most people, a "free" DIY paint job ends up costing three weeks of weekends and a lot of Ibuprofen.
Moving Forward with Your Project
Determining how much to paint house exterior requires a hard look at your home's unique problems rather than just its size. You aren't just paying for color; you're paying for a weather-proof seal that protects your biggest investment.
To get the most accurate price, get three quotes. Not one, not two. Three.
Make sure all three contractors are bidding on the exact same scope of work. Tell them: "I want two coats of [Brand X] paint, all trim included, and all gaps caulked." This prevents "scope creep" and ensures you are comparing apples to apples.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Walk your perimeter: Take a screwdriver and poke your siding near the ground. If it's soft, you need to budget for wood replacement before the painters arrive.
- Check the weather: Look for a 4-day window where the temperature stays above 50°F and below 90°F with low humidity.
- Secure the "Why": If you are painting to sell, go with neutral, "safe" colors like Accessible Beige or Swiss Coffee. If you are painting for yourself, spend the extra $500 on the highest-grade satin finish you can find. It’ll be easier to clean later.
- Verify the License: Check your state's contractor board website to ensure your chosen pro is actually licensed and has no active complaints. A cheap painter who disappears halfway through the job is the most expensive painter of all.