You’re standing in the driveway, staring at a massive pile of oak. It looks like a lot. Is it a cord? Half a cord? Honestly, if you aren't measuring it with a literal tape measure, you’re basically guessing, and in the world of home heating, guessing is expensive. The cost of cord firewood isn't just a single number you find on a Craigslist ad. It’s a moving target influenced by fuel prices, local labor, and—surprisingly—how much rain fell three months ago.
Wood is heavy.
A full cord of green red oak can weigh over 5,000 pounds. Moving that much weight requires a truck, a trailer, and a lot of ibuprofen. That’s why the price fluctuates so wildly between the guy with a rusted Ford F-150 and the professional outfit with a hydraulic processor and a kiln.
Defining the Cord Before You Overpay
Let's get the math out of the way. A standard cord is 128 cubic feet. Usually, that’s a stack 4 feet high, 4 feet deep, and 8 feet long. If someone tries to sell you a "face cord," "rick," or "truckload," you’re entering the Wild West. A face cord is generally only one-third of a full cord because it’s only 16 inches deep.
People get ripped off here constantly.
They see a low price, think they’re getting a deal, and realize later they paid full-cord prices for a fraction of the heat. It’s frustrating. When you ask about the cost of cord firewood, always clarify: "Are we talking 128 cubic feet of stacked wood?" If they hesitate, hang up. You want an honest seller who understands that volume is a legal measurement, not a suggestion.
Why the Price Tags Look So Different
Why does one guy charge $250 while the company down the road wants $500?
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Kiln-drying is the big one.
Most wood you buy is "seasoned," which basically means it sat outside under a tarp (hopefully) for six months. Kiln-dried wood goes into a massive oven. This drops the moisture content to under 20% in days. It lights instantly. It doesn't hiss. It doesn't grow mold in your garage. But you pay for that electricity and infrastructure. In the Northeast or the Pacific Northwest, where it’s damp, kiln-dried wood can easily fetch $600 a cord.
Then there's the species.
Softwoods like pine or fir are cheap. They grow fast. They burn fast. They’re fine for a campfire, but if you’re heating a home in a Montana winter, they're useless. You want hardwoods—Oak, Hickory, Maple, Ash. These are denser. They have more BTUs (British Thermal Units). According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, wood heating costs are relatively stable compared to heating oil, but the "quality" of those BTUs depends entirely on the wood density.
The Hidden Logistics of the Cost of Cord Firewood
Distance is a silent killer of deals.
Firewood is bulky. If the wood lot is 40 miles away, that driver is spending two hours in traffic and $40 in diesel just to get to your curb. Most sellers include a 10 or 15-mile delivery radius in their base price. Beyond that? Expect a delivery fee that might make your eyes water.
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Stacking is another "extra" that people forget. Most deliveries are "dump and run." The truck tilts, the wood hits your gravel, and the driver leaves. If you want those logs neatly stacked in your shed, expect to pay an additional $50 to $100 per cord. It’s back-breaking work. Honestly, if you have a teenager at home, make them do it. It builds character, or at least that's what we tell ourselves.
Regional Price Variations in 2026
- New England: You're looking at $350-$500 for seasoned hardwood. If it's "certified" invasive-species free, it costs more.
- The South: Oak and Hickory are king here. Prices are often lower, maybe $250-$350, because the "heating season" is shorter and labor is sometimes cheaper.
- The West: In places like Colorado or Oregon, you see more Douglas Fir or Larch. It's cheaper ($200-$300), but you'll burn through it twice as fast as White Oak.
- Urban Areas: If you live in a suburb of Chicago or NYC, prices skyrocket. You aren't just paying for wood; you're paying for the land the wood sat on while it dried.
When to Buy to Save Money
Buy in the spring.
Everyone forgets about firewood when the sun is out and the birds are chirping. In April and May, wood processors are sitting on inventory they want to move to make room for fresh logs. This is when the cost of cord firewood hits its floor. If you buy green wood in May, you have six months of summer heat to season it yourself for free.
Buying in October is a tactical error.
By the first frost, demand triples. Sellers know you’re desperate. The "seasoned" wood they sell you in November might have only been split in August, meaning it’s still "green" and won't burn worth a damn. It’ll smoke up your glass doors and creosote your chimney, which is a massive fire hazard.
Dealing with Scams and "The Short Cord"
Social media marketplaces are full of scammers. They’ll show a picture of a giant pile, but when it arrives, it barely fills half your bin.
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Always ask for a receipt.
In many states, like Maine or New Hampshire, firewood measurement is regulated by Weights and Measures departments. If a seller refuses to give you a slip that states the volume in cords, they’re probably shorting you. It’s also worth checking if the wood is "loose thrown" or "stacked." A loose-thrown cord usually needs to be about 180 cubic feet to equal 128 cubic feet when stacked tightly. If they dump a pile that looks small, it probably is.
The Reality of Self-Processing
Is it cheaper to do it yourself?
Technically, yes. You can get a permit from the National Forest Service for maybe $20 and cut your own. But you need a chainsaw ($500), a truck ($40,000), a log splitter ($1,200), and a lot of free time. If you enjoy the gym, think of it as a workout you get paid for in heat. If you value your weekends, paying the cost of cord firewood to a pro is the best money you’ll ever spend.
Actionable Steps for This Season
- Measure your space first. Know exactly how many cubic feet your storage area holds so you can verify the delivery immediately.
- Buy a moisture meter. You can get one for $20 online. If the wood shows over 20% moisture, it isn't seasoned. Use this as leverage to negotiate the price down or send the load back.
- Ask about species mix. Don't just accept "hardwood." Ask for the specific percentage of Oak or Maple. Avoid "Poplar" or "Willow" if you're paying top dollar—they're technically hardwoods but burn like paper.
- Inquire about "End of Season" discounts. If you're buying in February, ask if they have "scraps" or "shorts" (pieces under 12 inches). These often sell for half price and are great for small wood stoves.
- Check for pests. Look for boreholes or sawdust (frass) in the load. You don't want to pay to bring termites or emerald ash borers into your woodshed.
The market for firewood is hyper-local and somewhat chaotic. By understanding the volume, the moisture content, and the timing of the market, you can keep your heating costs predictable and your chimney clean.