You’re standing in your driveway. It’s pouring. And instead of water flowing neatly through those metal channels on your roof, it’s cascading over the side like a cheap backyard waterfall.
Your foundation is taking a beating. Your flowerbeds are getting nuked. You know it’s time. But then you start wondering about the bill.
How much should gutters cost without you getting absolutely hosed?
Honestly, the range is huge. You could spend $1,200 or you could spend $12,000. It's kinda wild. Most homeowners in 2026 are landing somewhere between **$1,600 and $5,200** for a full professional install on a standard-sized home. But "standard" is a loaded word.
The Per-Foot Reality
Everything in the gutter world is measured by the linear foot. If you have a 2,000-square-foot house, you probably need about 200 linear feet of gutters.
Basically, you’re looking at $6 to $60 per linear foot including labor. I know, that’s a gap you could drive a truck through. The reason is simple: material.
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Aluminum is the king for a reason. It’s rust-resistant and doesn’t break the bank. You’ll likely pay $10 to $20 per foot for installed aluminum.
Vinyl? It’s the budget play. Usually $8 to $12 per foot. It’s cheap, sure, but it gets brittle. If you live somewhere where the temperature swings 50 degrees in a day, vinyl might crack on you in a few seasons.
Then there’s copper. If you want your house to look like a historic estate and you have the cash, copper is gorgeous. But it’ll cost you. Expect $25 to $75 per foot. It’s basically jewelry for your roof.
Sectional vs. Seamless: Why It Matters
You've probably heard the term "seamless" tossed around.
Sectional gutters are what you buy at a big-box store. You snap them together. They’re great for DIYers who want to save a buck, but every one of those seams is a potential leak waiting to happen.
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Seamless gutters are a different beast. A pro brings a machine to your house and "extrudes" the gutter right there on the sidewalk. One continuous piece of metal from corner to corner.
It costs more upfront—usually $800 to $1,500 more than a basic sectional job—but it’s almost always worth it. Fewer leaks mean less wood rot on your fascia boards.
The Stuff Nobody Tells You About
The gutter itself is just part of the story. There are the "hidden" bits that pop up on the invoice and make you double-take.
Downspouts and Extensions
Water has to go somewhere. Standard downspouts cost about $6 to $12 per foot for vinyl or aluminum. If you need them to go underground to move water away from the foundation, add another $3 to $8 per foot for the digging and piping.
Fascia Repair
If your old gutters have been failing for years, the wood behind them—the fascia—might be rotten. You can’t hang new gutters on rotten wood. Expect to pay $6 to $20 per linear foot to replace those boards.
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The "Tall House" Tax
Contractors hate ladders. Or rather, they charge for the risk. If you have a three-story home, expect your labor costs to jump by 30% to 50%. It takes longer, requires more safety gear, and frankly, it’s just more dangerous work.
What About Gutter Guards?
This is where the sales pitch usually gets intense. Gutter guards can be a lifesaver if you have huge oak trees hanging over your roof.
Screen or mesh guards are the standard. They run about $8 to $15 per foot installed.
Micro-mesh is the high-end version. It keeps out even the tiny pine needles. These can push your project price up by $2,000 to $5,000 total. Is it worth it? If you’re currently paying $200 twice a year for cleaning, the math usually works out after about five to seven years.
Labor Rates by Region
Your zip code determines a lot. In a high-cost urban area like Seattle or New York, labor might be $10 to $12 per foot. In a rural part of the Midwest, you might find a guy who’ll do it for $4 or $5.
Peak season also matters. If you try to book an install in October when everyone realizes their gutters are clogged with leaves, you're going to pay a premium. Try booking in the "off-season" like late winter or mid-summer for better leverage on pricing.
Actionable Steps for Your Project
- Measure Your Roofline: Don't guess. Get a tape measure or use a satellite mapping tool to find your actual linear footage.
- Check Your Fascia: Grab a screwdriver and poke the wood behind your current gutters. If it's soft, budget for repairs.
- Get Three Quotes: Never take the first one. Make sure at least one is for seamless aluminum—it's the industry benchmark for value.
- Ask About Disposal: Ensure the "removal and disposal" of your old rusty gutters is included in the price. It usually costs $100 to $200 as a standalone fee.
- Verify Insurance: Gutter work involves heights. If a worker falls and the company doesn't have workers' comp, that's a nightmare you don't want.