You're staring at a screen right now. Odds are, it’s either a smartphone or a laptop display, but if you’re looking to upgrade your desk setup, the price tag for a standalone display is all over the place. I’ve seen decent screens at thrift stores for twenty bucks and professional reference monitors that cost as much as a used Honda Civic. So, how much is a monitor really going to set you back? Honestly, the answer depends entirely on whether you’re just trying to read emails or if you’re trying to win a localized esports tournament from your bedroom.
Prices have shifted. A few years ago, 4K was a luxury. Now? It’s basically the baseline for anyone doing more than basic data entry. If you walk into a Best Buy or browse Newegg today, you’ll find that the "sweet spot" has migrated. We aren't just paying for pixels anymore; we’re paying for hertz, nits, and color accuracy.
The Cheap Seats: Under $150
If you just need to see your spreadsheets, you don't need to drop a fortune. This is the budget tier. You can find 24-inch 1080p monitors from brands like Acer, ASUS, or Sceptre for somewhere between $80 and $130. They’re fine. They work.
But there is a catch.
At this price point, you’re usually getting a VA or TN panel. TN panels have terrible viewing angles—lean an inch to the left and the colors shift like a psychedelic trip. You’re also stuck with a 60Hz or maybe 75Hz refresh rate. It feels "laggy" if you’re used to a modern smartphone screen. Most people buying in this range are students or businesses outfitting an entire call center. It’s functional, but it’s not pretty. Don't expect HDR that actually does anything, and definitely don't expect a stand that does anything other than tilt slightly.
The Productivity Sweet Spot: $200 to $450
This is where most people should live. In this bracket, the question of how much is a monitor gets answered with "enough to get an IPS panel." IPS (In-Plane Switching) is the gold standard for office work and general use because the colors stay consistent no matter how you sit.
For about $300, you can snag a 27-inch 1440p (QHD) monitor. Brands like Dell (the UltraSharp line is legendary here) or LG dominate this space. 1440p is arguably better than 4K for a 27-inch screen because you don't have to deal with weird Windows scaling issues. Everything is just crisp.
You’re also starting to see USB-C connectivity here. This is a game-changer. One cable. That’s it. It charges your laptop and sends the video signal to the screen simultaneously. If you value a clean desk, paying the extra $50 for a monitor with "Power Delivery" (usually 65W or 90W) is the smartest money you’ll ever spend.
What about Ultrawides?
People love them. I get it. Replacing two small monitors with one giant 34-inch curved screen feels like living in the future. A decent productivity ultrawide starts around $400. If you go cheaper, you lose the resolution, and a 34-inch screen at 1080p looks like a screen door. It’s blurry. You’ll hate it. Stick to 3440 x 1440 resolution if you're going wide.
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The High-Refresh Gaming Tax
Gaming changes the math. Gamers don't care about "accurate" colors as much as they care about speed. When looking at how much is a monitor for a PS5 or a high-end PC, you have to look at the Hertz (Hz).
- 144Hz to 165Hz: This is the entry-level for gaming. Expect to pay $200-$350.
- 240Hz and up: Now you’re entering the competitive realm. Prices jump to $500+.
- 4K 144Hz: This used to be $1,000. Now, thanks to panels from companies like Gigabyte and Samsung, you can find them for $500 to $700.
The real cost in gaming isn't just the monitor; it's the GPU required to run it. Buying a 4K 144Hz monitor is pointless if you're running an old graphics card that can only push 30 frames per second. It’s like putting Ferrari tires on a lawnmower.
The OLED Revolution and the $800+ Barrier
We have to talk about OLED. If you’ve looked at an iPhone or a high-end Samsung Galaxy, you know what OLED looks like. The blacks are actually black, not dark gray. For the longest time, OLED monitors didn't exist because of "burn-in" concerns—basically, your Windows taskbar getting permanently ghosted onto the screen.
In 2026, those fears have mostly been mitigated by software tricks, but you pay for the privilege. An OLED gaming monitor (like the Alienware AW3423DWF or the LG UltraGear series) will cost you anywhere from $800 to $1,300.
Is it worth it? Yes. Every single time.
The response times are near-instant. There’s no "ghosting" behind moving objects. It’s the single biggest visual upgrade you can make to a computer. If you have the budget, this is where the "enthusiast" tier starts.
Professional Color Grading: The "Real" Expensive Stuff
Then there’s the stuff most people never see. If you’re a colorist for Netflix or a high-end commercial photographer, a $500 Dell won't cut it. You need 100% Adobe RGB coverage and hardware calibration.
How much is a monitor for a pro?
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Eizo and BenQ (their PhotoVue line) are the big names here. You’re looking at $1,500 to $3,000. And if you go into true reference monitors—the kind used on Hollywood sets like the Sony BVM series—you are looking at $30,000. Yes, thirty thousand dollars for a 31-inch screen. At that level, you aren't paying for "features"; you’re paying for the guarantee that the red you see is the exact mathematical red that will show up on every movie screen in the world.
Hidden Costs: It’s Not Just the Screen
When budgeting, people always forget the extras.
- Mounting: Most cheap monitors have terrible stands. A decent gas-spring monitor arm will cost you $50 to $100. It clears up your desk space and saves your neck from strain.
- Cables: Did the monitor come with a DisplayPort cable or just a cheap HDMI? If you want high refresh rates, you often need a specific version of the cable (HDMI 2.1 or DP 1.4). That’s another $20.
- Calibration Tools: If you’re a creator, you might need a Spyder or Colormunki to make sure the colors are right. That’s another $150.
Breaking Down the Numbers: A Quick Reality Check
Instead of a table, let's just look at the tiers of what you're likely to spend.
If you are a casual home user, $150 to $200 gets you a very solid 27-inch 1080p or a basic 1440p screen. It’ll last five years and you won’t complain.
For the "Work From Home" crowd, $350 is the sweet spot. This gets you that 1440p resolution and a USB-C hub that acts as a docking station. It makes life so much easier.
Gamers should expect to spend $400 to $600 for something that actually takes advantage of their hardware. If you go cheaper, you'll see "smearing" in fast-moving scenes, which is incredibly distracting.
The "I want the best" crowd needs to set aside $900 to $1,200 for an OLED. There’s no middle ground there. You’re either in or you’re out.
Why the Price Fluctuates So Much
You’ll notice that a monitor might be $400 today and $280 next week. Panel manufacturers like LG Display, Samsung Display, and BOE produce these things in massive cycles. When there's an oversupply, prices crater.
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Also, brand matters. You’re often paying a "tax" for Dell's warranty or Apple's design. Speaking of Apple, the Studio Display is $1,590. Is the panel better than a $700 LG? Slightly. Is the build quality better? Infinitely. You're paying for the aluminum housing, the speakers, and the 5K resolution that specifically matches macOS scaling. It's a niche product for a specific person.
The "Used" Market Gamble
Can you get a monitor for $50? Sure. Facebook Marketplace is full of them. But monitors are like lightbulbs; they have a lifespan. The backlights dim over time. Older CCFL-backlit monitors (the thick ones) get yellow and hot.
If you buy used, look for LED-backlit models from the last three years. Check for "dead pixels"—tiny black or bright green dots that never change. If a monitor has more than two or three, walk away. They are annoying and usually indicate a failing panel.
Making the Final Call
Don't overbuy. If you only browse the web and watch the occasional YouTube video, a $900 OLED is a waste of money. The static images of web browsing can actually contribute to burn-in faster.
Conversely, don't underbuy. If you spend eight hours a day looking at text, a blurry $100 monitor will give you headaches. Your eyes are worth the extra $150 for a flicker-free, high-resolution panel.
Next Steps for Your Purchase:
- Check your desk depth: If your desk is shallow (less than 24 inches), don't buy a 32-inch monitor. It will be overwhelming. Stick to 24 or 27 inches.
- Verify your ports: Look at your laptop or PC. If you only have HDMI, don't buy a monitor that requires DisplayPort to hit its max refresh rate.
- Prioritize Resolution over Size: A 27-inch 1440p monitor always looks better than a 32-inch 1080p monitor. Pixel density is the key to sharpness.
- Read the "Grey-to-Grey" (GtG) specs: If you're gaming, ignore the "1ms" marketing unless it specifies GtG. Many budget brands use "MPRT" which is a different, less useful measurement.
Ultimately, your monitor is the part of the computer you actually interact with. You can have a $4,000 PC, but if you’re viewing it through a $90 window, you’re missing the point. Spend the money where it counts—right in front of your face.