You're standing in the middle of a home improvement aisle, staring at a slab of primed composite. It’s marked at $75. You think, "Perfect, I’ll grab two and be out of here for under two hundred bucks."
Wrong.
The sticker price is a liar. By the time that door actually swings shut to give you some privacy, you've likely spent triple that amount. I’ve seen homeowners get blindsided by the "hidden" math of interior renovations more times than I can count. Honestly, asking how much is a bedroom door is a bit like asking how much a bag of groceries costs—it depends entirely on whether you’re buying generic cereal or prime rib.
Standard hollow-core doors are the "cereal" of the housing world. They are lightweight, mostly air and cardboard honeycomb inside, and they’re incredibly cheap. But if you want a door that actually blocks the sound of your teenager's gaming headset or the hum of the vacuum, you're looking at solid-core or even solid wood. That's where the price ladder starts to get steep.
The Raw Costs: Breaking Down the Materials
Let's get real about the numbers. If you are just buying the physical door—the "slab"—your wallet is going to feel a very specific range of pain.
A basic hollow-core slab usually runs between $50 and $150. These are the industry standard for new builds because they’re easy to hang and cheap to ship. But here is the catch: they feel like paper. If you’ve ever accidentally punched a hole in a door or felt one rattle when the HVAC kicks on, it was a hollow core.
Then you have solid-core doors. These are the sweet spot. They aren't solid mahogany, but they are filled with a dense wood fiber blend that makes them feel heavy and expensive. Expect to pay $150 to $400 for these. They are significantly better at sound dampening. If you work from home, this isn't an upgrade; it’s a necessity.
Solid wood is the high-end outlier. We’re talking pine, oak, knotty alder, or walnut. You aren't getting out of the store for less than $300, and for premium hardwoods like walnut, you might see prices hit $1,000 per slab.
Don't Forget the Frame
Wait. Is your existing frame in good shape? If not, you aren't buying a slab; you're buying a pre-hung door.
A pre-hung door comes already attached to the hinges and the wooden frame (the jamb). It’s basically a "door in a box." It’s much easier to install because the hinges are already mortised out. However, this adds $100 to $200 to the base price of the door. If you’re doing a full remodel and the old frames are hacked up or rotting, pre-hung is the only way to go. Otherwise, you’ll spend six hours trying to shave down a slab to fit a crooked 1970s frame. It’s a nightmare.
Labor Is Where the Budget Dies
Unless you’re handy with a planer and a chisel, you’re hiring someone. Labor costs for installing a bedroom door are wildly volatile depending on where you live.
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In a mid-sized city, a handyman might charge you $150 to $300 to hang a single door. If you’re in New York or San Francisco? Double it.
I talked to a contractor recently who mentioned that "simple" door swaps are his least favorite jobs. Why? Because houses settle. Frames aren't square. If he spends three hours trying to get a $90 door to latch properly, he has to charge you for that time.
- Basic Slab Install: $100–$250 (assuming the frame is perfect).
- Pre-hung Install: $200–$500 (includes more demolition and trim work).
- The "Oops" Factor: Another $50–$100 for paint, shims, and nails.
Hardware: The Jewelry of the Room
You can’t open a door without a handle. It sounds obvious, but people forget this cost daily.
A basic, contractor-grade locking knob from a big-box store like Home Depot or Lowe’s is about $20. It’s fine. It works. It’s also boring.
If you want a modern matte black lever or a vintage-style glass knob, you’re looking at $50 to $120 per door. If you have five bedrooms and a couple of closets, suddenly you've spent $500 just on the "jewelry."
Then there are hinges. If you buy a slab, you need hinges. Most people want them to match the handle. That’s another $15 to $30 per door for a set of three decent-quality hinges.
Why Design Style Changes Everything
The "look" of the door dictates the price more than you'd think.
The 6-panel textured door is the most common and usually the cheapest because they are mass-produced by the millions. However, the current trend is the Shaker-style 1-panel or 3-panel door. Because these have sharp, clean lines and often require better construction to prevent the panels from shrinking or cracking, they usually carry a 20% to 30% premium over the old-school 6-panel designs.
Barn doors are another story entirely. Everyone loves the aesthetic, but how much is a bedroom door when it’s sliding on a rail? A lot more. The hardware kit alone for a sliding barn door is often $150 to $300, and the doors themselves need to be wider than the opening to provide privacy. You can easily spend $600 to $1,200 on a single barn door setup.
The Soundproofing Secret
If you’re asking about price because you’re tired of hearing your roommate’s TV, you need to look at STC ratings.
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STC stands for Sound Transmission Class. A standard hollow-core door has an STC of about 20. You can hear a whisper through it. A solid-core door gets you closer to 30 or 35.
If you want "studio quiet," you need an acoustic grade door. These are specialty items. They have internal dampening layers and automatic bottom seals that drop down when the door closes. Price? $1,500 and up.
For most of us, a $250 solid-core door with some $10 weatherstripping around the frame is the best ROI you'll ever find. It’s the difference between a house that feels like a collection of rooms and a house that feels like a sanctuary.
Surprising Costs People Ignore
I once saw a homeowner buy ten beautiful, unfinished oak doors. They were a steal at $200 each.
Then they realized they had to finish them.
If you buy unfinished wood, you have to sand, prime, and paint (or stain) both sides and all four edges. If you hire a pro to do this, it usually costs $100 to $150 per door in labor and materials.
Even if you do it yourself, you’re buying high-quality trim paint (which is now $70 a gallon for the good stuff) and brushes. It takes time. A lot of it.
Also, disposal. Your garbage collector might not take five old wooden doors sitting on the curb. You might have to pay a junk removal service $100 to haul the old ones away.
Direct Answer: The Total Tally
So, how much is a bedroom door in the real world?
If you are doing it the absolute cheapest way possible—buying a hollow-core slab, reusing your old hardware, and installing it yourself—you can get away with $80 to $120.
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If you are doing a standard, high-quality upgrade—solid-core pre-hung door, new mid-range lever handle, and paying a handyman—expect to pay $450 to $700 per door.
If you go full luxury—solid walnut, designer hardware, and professional finishing—you are easily clearing $1,500 per opening.
Navigating the Purchase: Actionable Steps
Stop looking at the price tags and start looking at the "spec sheet."
Check the thickness. A standard interior door is 1 and 3/8 inches thick. If you find a door that's cheaper than usual, check that measurement. Sometimes "budget" doors are thinner, which means they’ll warp within a year.
Before you buy, measure your door opening in three places: top, middle, and bottom. Houses aren't square. If your bottom measurement is 30 inches but the top is 29 and 3/4, a standard 30-inch slab won't fit without significant trimming.
Buy in Bulk if Possible
If you’re replacing one door, you’re paying retail. If you’re doing the whole house, go to a local lumberyard or a dedicated door and window distributor—not just the big-box home center. They often offer "house packages" where the per-unit price drops significantly once you buy five or more doors.
Check the "Bore"
Make sure the door is "pre-bored." This means the large hole for the handle and the smaller hole for the latch are already cut. If they aren't, you’ll need a jig and a hole saw to do it yourself. It’s messy, and if you mess up by even a quarter-inch, the door won't latch. Most big-box stores sell pre-bored slabs, but custom architectural doors often come "blank."
Inspect for Warping Immediately
The moment that door is delivered, lay it flat or lean it nearly vertical. If you store a door leaning at a sharp angle against a wall for a week, it will bow. A bowed door is a ruined door. Also, check the edges for "tear-out" or cracks in the veneer. It’s much easier to exchange a damaged door before you’ve spent two hours painting it.
To get the most for your money, prioritize the rooms that matter. Put a high-quality solid-core door on the master bedroom and the home office for privacy and sound control. For a guest closet or a laundry room that’s rarely used, a cheaper hollow-core door is a perfectly fine place to save a few hundred dollars. Balancing the budget this way lets you get the "feel" of a luxury home without the luxury price tag on every single hinge.