You’re sitting there, probably staring at a hairline fracture that looks like a lightning bolt or a series of psychedelic pink lines dancing across your Retina display. It’s frustrating. The 2017 MacBook Pro was a polarizing machine from the jump, mostly because of that butterfly keyboard, but the display is usually what holds up—until it doesn't. Now you're stuck wondering if you should drop several hundred dollars on a MacBook Pro 2017 screen replacement or just acknowledge that a nine-year-old laptop might be ready for the recycling bin. Honestly, the answer isn't as straightforward as "go to the Apple Store."
The 2017 model (internally known as A1706 for the Touch Bar version and A1708 for the two-port function key version) is in a weird spot. It’s "vintage" by Apple's standards. This means parts are getting harder to find through official channels, and the cost of the repair often exceeds the actual resale value of the laptop. But if the guts of your machine are still screaming along and you just can't stand the crack, you've got options.
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The Flexgate hangover and why your screen died
Before you buy a part, you need to know why it broke. If you dropped it, okay, that's on you. But if the screen started flickering or the backlight looks like a stage spotlight at the bottom of the display, you’ve likely been hit by "Flexgate."
This was a massive design flaw where the ribbon cables connecting the logic board to the display were just a tiny bit too short. Every time you opened the lid, the cable stretched. Over thousands of cycles, it frayed. Apple launched a repair program for the 2016 models, but curiously left the 2017 out in the cold, even though it uses a very similar design. iFixit famously documented this, noting that the 2018 models finally got a 2mm longer cable to fix the tension issue. If your MacBook Pro 2017 screen replacement is necessary because of stage lighting, you aren't alone; you’re just a victim of tight tolerances.
What will this actually cost you?
Price varies wildly. If you walk into an Apple Authorized Service Provider (AASP), expect to be quoted anywhere from $450 to $700. That is a lot of money. Basically, you're paying for a full top-case assembly. Apple doesn't just "replace the glass" or "swap the LCD." They replace the entire aluminum lid, the webcam, the hinges, and the cables as one fused unit.
If you go the DIY route, you can find the assembly on eBay or specialized parts sites like PowerbookMedic or MobileSentrix. A Grade A used screen usually hovers around $150 to $250. Be careful with "New" listings on third-party sites; often these are refurbished units with the glass glued back onto an old frame, and the quality can be... let's say "hit or miss." Sometimes the color temperature is way off, or the True Tone (though 2017 didn't have it, later screens used for parts might) won't work correctly.
The three ways to fix it
First, there’s the "Official" way. You hand it to a guy in a blue shirt, wait three to five days, and get back a machine that feels brand new. It’s the safest but most expensive.
Second, the independent shop. These guys are the heartbeat of the repair world. A reputable shop using high-quality pull-offs (parts taken from dead MacBooks) will usually charge you about $300 to $400 including labor. It's a fair middle ground.
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Third, the DIY approach. I’ll be real with you: this isn't like changing a tire. You’re dealing with tiny P5 Pentalobe screws and T5 Torx screws. You have to navigate the battery connector first, or you risk shorting the backlight circuit on the logic board. If you do that, you haven't just failed at a MacBook Pro 2017 screen replacement—you've killed your entire computer.
Why a "glass only" repair is a trap
You might see ads for just the glass panel for $40. Do not buy it. Unless you have a vacuum chamber, a clean room, and a specialized LOCA (Liquid Optical Clear Adhesive) curing setup, you cannot replace just the glass on a 2017 MacBook Pro. The LCD and the glass are fused. Attempting to heat them up and pry them apart usually results in a cracked LCD and a sticky, glass-shardy mess on your kitchen table.
I’ve seen dozens of people try this to save $100, only to end up buying the full assembly anyway after they ruined their original display. Save yourself the headache. Buy the full assembly. It’s six screws for the hinges and a few delicate ribbon cables. It’s manageable; the glass-only swap is impossible for humans without specialized industrial machinery.
Technical nuances: A1706 vs. A1708
Check the bottom of your laptop. The text is tiny, so you might need a magnifying glass or a high-res photo from your phone. If you have the A1706 (Touch Bar), the internal layout is slightly more cramped than the A1708 (Non-Touch Bar).
The good news? The display assemblies for the 2016 and 2017 models are largely cross-compatible, but you should always match the year if possible. Using a 2016 screen on a 2017 board can sometimes lead to sleep sensor issues where the laptop doesn't realize the lid is closed. It’s annoying.
Is it even worth it in 2026?
We have to talk about the elephant in the room. The 2017 MacBook Pro uses Intel chips. We are well into the Apple Silicon era. A base model M1 or M2 MacBook Air will absolutely lap the 2017 Pro in terms of speed, battery life, and thermal management.
If you spend $500 on a repair, you are putting money into a machine that might lose macOS support within the next year or two. Open Core Legacy Patcher exists, sure, but that's a hobbyist's game. If this is your daily driver for work, that $500 is probably better spent as a down payment on a newer refurbished M-series Mac.
However, if the laptop is otherwise perfect—maybe you just replaced the battery or you really need that specific Intel architecture for Windows via Bootcamp—then the MacBook Pro 2017 screen replacement makes sense. It’s a beautiful 2560x1600 display. Even by today's standards, the P3 color gamut on these screens looks better than most modern mid-range Windows laptops.
Real-world advice for the repair process
If you decide to do this yourself, get a magnetized project mat. Those screws are different lengths. If you put a long screw into a short hole, you can punch right through the logic board. This is called "long-screwing," and it's a death sentence for the hardware.
Also, be incredibly careful with the Wi-Fi antenna assembly. It sits right over the display hinges. You have to wiggle it out without snapping the tiny gold U.FL connectors. If you're ham-fisted here, you'll have a working screen but no internet. That's a bad trade.
Identifying a quality replacement part
When you're hunting on the secondary market, look for these signs:
- The "MacBook Pro" logo at the bottom of the bezel should be crisp and not look like a sticker.
- The rubber gasket around the edge should be intact. If it's peeling, it's a cheap refurb.
- The FaceTime camera hole should be centered. Off-center lenses are a hallmark of "B-grade" third-party factories.
Actionable Next Steps
Check your serial number on Apple’s "Check Coverage" page first. While the 2017 screen program isn't active, sometimes you'll find a surprise service exception if you have AppleCare+ remnants or a specific regional consumer law claim.
If you're going DIY, go to iFixit and read the guide three times before you buy a single tool. Look at the "difficult" rating. If those photos of tiny cables make your hands shake, take it to a pro.
For those looking for a budget fix, consider an external monitor. If your MacBook stays on a desk 90% of the time, a $100 4K monitor is cheaper and better than a $300 screen replacement. You can even run the Mac in "clamshell mode" with a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse. It turns your broken laptop into a sleek desktop setup.
Lastly, if you do replace the screen, stop carrying your laptop by the corner. The chassis on the 2017 model is thin enough that it can flex, putting pressure on the display glass. Pick it up with two hands. Treat those cables with respect. These machines are old, but with a new panel, they still have a few good years of Netflix and spreadsheets left in them.
Summary of your path forward:
Decide if you value the Intel architecture enough to spend 50% of the laptop's value on a part. If yes, buy a full assembly, avoid "glass only" kits, and keep a steady hand with the Torx drivers. If no, use an external monitor or sell the machine for parts and move into the Apple Silicon world. It’s a huge upgrade.