Walk into any professional beauty supply shop and the wall of developer looks like a chemistry lab. It’s intimidating. You’re just standing there, staring at rows of white bottles, wondering if you’re about to melt your hair off or if that "10" is basically just expensive water. Honestly, most people just grab whatever is on the shelf and hope for the best. That is a massive mistake. If you’ve ever wondered how many volumes of bleach are there, the answer isn't just a single number, but a range of strengths that determine whether you end up with a creamy platinum or a handful of "chemical spaghetti."
The hair world revolves around oxygen. That’s what "volume" really means. It’s the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the bottle. If you pick the wrong one, you’re either wasting three hours for no result or literally blistering your scalp. It’s not just 10, 20, or 30. There are nuances here that pros like Guy Tang or Brad Mondo talk about constantly because the physics of hair lightening is actually pretty brutal.
The Standard Four: Understanding the Common Strengths
Basically, you’re looking at four main players in the developer game. These are the ones you’ll find at Sally Beauty or your local salon.
10 Volume (3% Peroxide)
This is the gentle giant. It’s mostly used for "deposit only" work. Think about it as the developer that opens the hair cuticle just a tiny crack—just enough to let some color molecules slide in, but not enough to really blast away your natural pigment. If you're toning your hair after a heavy bleach session, this is your best friend. It doesn't lift much. Maybe a half-level if you're lucky.
20 Volume (6% Peroxide)
This is the industry workhorse. If you’re covering gray hair, you use 20. If you’re doing a standard lift of one to two levels, you use 20. It’s the sweet spot for most DIY projects because it's strong enough to see a change but stable enough that it won't instantly destroy your hair's integrity. Most boxed dyes you buy at the grocery store have 20 volume tucked inside that little plastic bottle.
30 Volume (9% Peroxide)
Now we’re getting into the spicy territory. 30 volume is for when you need a significant jump—maybe three levels of lift. It’s aggressive. It works fast. Because it works fast, it’s also much easier to mess up. If you have dark brown hair and you want to be blonde by lunchtime, this is usually the go-to, but you have to move quickly.
40 Volume (12% Peroxide)
Just... be careful. Seriously. 40 volume is the strongest standard developer available to the public. It provides maximum lift, but it’s incredibly harsh on the hair and the skin. Most professionals advise against using this on the scalp because it can cause genuine chemical burns. It’s mostly reserved for high-lift blondes or thick, "virgin" hair that resists everything else.
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The Secret "In-Between" Volumes You Didn't Know Existed
While the big four dominate the market, the actual answer to how many volumes of bleach are there includes some niche options.
Have you ever heard of 5 volume? It exists. It’s essentially for glazed finishes where you want zero lift—literally zero. It’s for when you love your color but just want it to shine like a diamond. Then there’s 15 volume. Some brands like Redken or Matrix have started offering these "half-steps." Why? Because sometimes 10 isn't enough to get the color to stick, but 20 is too much and might shift your natural base color.
There is even 50 volume, though finding it is like finding a forbidden spellbook. It is terrifyingly strong. Most modern hair stylists have moved away from it entirely because the "slow and low" approach—using a lower volume for a longer time—actually results in a cleaner, healthier blonde. High volumes like 50 tend to "blow out" the cuticle, leaving the hair feeling like straw.
Why the Math Matters: Peroxide Percentages
It’s helpful to look at the math, even if you hated high school chemistry. The volume refers to how much oxygen gas is released from the liquid.
- 10 Vol = 3%
- 20 Vol = 6%
- 30 Vol = 9%
- 40 Vol = 12%
Notice a pattern? Every jump of 10 volumes adds exactly 3% hydrogen peroxide. This is why you can actually mix developers if you're in a pinch. If you have a bottle of 10 and a bottle of 30, and you mix them in equal parts, you’ve just created 20 volume. It’s basic arithmetic, but it saves you a trip to the store when you’re halfway through a bleach touch-up and realize you’re out of the medium stuff.
How to Choose Based on Your Hair Type
Don't just pick based on how blonde you want to be. Pick based on what your hair can actually handle.
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If your hair is fine, thin, or already colored, stick to 10 or 20. Fine hair has a thinner cortex. The bleach travels through it like a race car. If you put 30 volume on fine hair, it might lift to white in ten minutes and then start disintegrating.
Thick, coarse, or "stubborn" hair? That’s where you might need the 30. Coarse hair has a very tight, overlapping cuticle layer that acts like armor. You need that extra "oomph" to break through the gate. But even then, don’t assume you need the strongest stuff. Sometimes a 20 volume left on for 45 minutes is more effective than a 40 volume left on for 20 minutes.
The "Lift" Misconception
A common myth is that higher volume means "better" blonde. That's wrong. Higher volume just means faster lift. When you lift hair too fast, you often skip the "yellow" stage and go straight to "fried." When you use a lower volume, the bleach has time to eat through the red and orange pigments more evenly. This is how you avoid that dreaded brassy, pumpkin-orange look that screams "I did this in my bathroom at 2 AM."
Safety and Scalp Health: The 20 Volume Rule
Here is a pro tip that will save your skin: Never put anything higher than 20 volume directly on your scalp.
Your scalp produces heat. That heat acts as an accelerator for the bleach. 20 volume on your head often acts like 30 volume would on the ends of your hair. If you put 30 or 40 volume on your scalp, you’re asking for a "bleach burn." It feels like your head is on fire, and you’ll end up with scabs. It’s not worth it. If you need a lot of lift at the roots, just be patient. Use 20 and let the heat from your head do the heavy lifting.
Real-World Examples of Bleach Fails
I once saw a friend try to go from jet black (dyed) to platinum in one sitting using 40 volume. She thought the "stronger" the better. Within fifteen minutes, her hair was smoking. Literally. The chemical reaction between the high-volume peroxide and the metallic salts in her old black dye created an exothermic reaction. Her hair didn't just break; it melted into a gummy, elastic mess.
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If she had used 10 or 20 volume over several weeks, the hair might have survived. This is why knowing how many volumes of bleach are there isn't just trivia—it's damage control.
Mixing and Consistency: The Hidden Variable
The developer isn't just about strength; it's about the "slip." When you mix your bleach powder with the developer, you’re aiming for a Greek yogurt consistency.
- Too runny: It will bleed onto hair you didn't mean to bleach.
- Too thick: It won't saturate the strands, and you'll end up with "cheetah spots."
Most brands suggest a 1:2 ratio (one part powder to two parts developer). Always use a plastic bowl and whisk. Never, ever use metal. Metal causes a chemical reaction with the peroxide that can turn your hair green or, again, cause it to melt.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Hair Goal
If you are planning to bleach your hair at home, follow this logic to ensure you don't regret it the moment you look in the mirror.
- Check your starting point. If your hair is currently dyed dark, you are not lifting pigment; you are removing artificial dye. This is harder. Use a lower volume (20) and expect to do it twice.
- Do a strand test. Take a tiny snip of hair from the back of your head (the nape) or just a small hidden section. Apply your chosen volume and wait 30 minutes. If the hair snaps when you pull it, your volume is too high.
- Buy more than you think. You never want to run out of developer halfway through your head. A standard 16oz bottle is usually enough for two applications on medium-length hair.
- Invest in a scale. Don't eyeball the measurements. A cheap kitchen scale ensures your 20 volume stays 20 volume. If you add too much powder, you're essentially upping the strength and the grit.
- Monitor the clock, not the TV. Check your hair every 10 minutes. Bleach stops being effective after about 50-60 minutes, but the damage continues. Once it stops lifting, wash it out.
The reality of hair chemistry is that time is usually a better tool than strength. Professional colorists almost always prefer to use 10 or 20 volume over a longer period because it preserves the "disulfide bonds" in your hair. These bonds are what keep your hair from looking like a frizzy mess. Once they're gone, they're gone—no amount of expensive conditioner can truly "fix" a broken bond, though some treatments like Olaplex or K18 can help patch the holes. Choose the lowest volume that will get the job done, even if it takes a little longer. Your hair will thank you by actually staying on your head.