So you’re looking at your iPad and realizing it basically looks like every other thin glass rectangle Apple has made in the last decade. It’s a common problem. Maybe you’re trying to sell it on a marketplace and don't want to get scammed, or you're finally buying that specific paper-feel screen protector and realize there are approximately fifty different sizes. Honestly, Apple doesn't make it easy by calling everything "iPad Air" or "iPad Pro" for years on end without putting a big "6" or "7" on the back.
If you're asking how do i find what version ipad i have, you’ve probably already noticed that the "About" section in your settings can be a little cryptic.
Don't worry. I've spent way too much time troubleshooting these devices, and there are actually three very specific ways to figure this out in under sixty seconds. We're going to skip the fluff and get into the actual steps that work even if your screen is cracked or the battery is dead.
The Settings Method: The Quickest Way (If It Turns On)
If your iPad is alive and kicking, this is the gold standard. Apple actually started including the "friendly" name of the device in recent years, so you don't have to be a detective.
- Open the Settings app. (The gray gear icon.)
- Tap on General.
- Tap on About.
Look for the row labeled Model Name. It should say something like "iPad Air (5th generation)" or "iPad Pro 11-inch (M4)." If you see that, you're done. You found it.
But here is where people get tripped up. Sometimes, especially on older versions of iPadOS, it only shows a Model Number that looks like a SKU (e.g., MUUK2LL/A). That’s a part number, not the actual version.
Pro tip: Tap that part number once. It will magically transform into a shorter code starting with the letter A, followed by four digits (like A2152). That "A" number is the DNA of your iPad. It tells you exactly which generation, year, and connectivity (Wi-Fi vs. Cellular) you have.
The Back Cover Trick: When the Screen is Dead
What if the iPad won't turn on? Or maybe it’s locked and you forgot the passcode?
Flip it over.
On almost every iPad made before 2024, there is tiny, almost microscopic text at the bottom of the aluminum back. You might need a magnifying glass or a high-res photo from your phone to read it. You are looking for the word "Model" followed by that same "A" code we talked about earlier.
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Note: Some of the newest 2025 and 2026 models, like the M5 iPad Pro, have moved this information. If you don't see it on the back, check the very bottom edge near the charging port or inside the SIM tray slot if it's a cellular model.
Decoding the "A" Number (2026 Update)
Once you have that "A" code, you need to know what it actually translates to. Apple releases so many versions that it’s easy to get confused between an iPad Air and a standard iPad.
Here is a quick rundown of the most common ones you'll see in the wild right now:
- A2696, A2757: That’s the iPad (10th Generation). The one with the colors.
- A2588, A2589: iPad Air (5th Generation) with the M1 chip.
- A2902, A2903: This is the newer iPad Air 11-inch (M2) from 2024.
- A2836, A2837: The ultra-thin iPad Pro 11-inch (M4).
- A3006, A3007: The iPad Pro 13-inch (M5) released recently in 2025/2026.
If your code isn't here, just type "Apple iPad Model [Your A-Number]" into a search engine. The official Apple Support site has a massive database that lists every single one dating back to the original "thick" iPad from 2010.
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Why Does the Version Even Matter?
It’s not just about bragging rights. Knowing your version is critical for Apple Intelligence compatibility. If you’re trying to use the new AI writing tools or the advanced Siri features in iPadOS 19 or 20, you generally need a device with an M-series chip (M1, M2, M3, M4, or the new M5) or at least an A17 Pro.
If you find out you have an iPad (9th gen) or an older iPad mini, you’re basically locked out of the newest software tricks.
Also, accessories are a nightmare. The Apple Pencil Pro only works with the newest Air and Pro models. If you buy a Pencil Pro for an older iPad Air 4, it literally won't even pair. It’ll just sit there like a very expensive stick.
Actionable Next Steps
Now that you know exactly what you’re holding, here is what you should do:
- Check your Trade-in Value: Go to the Apple Trade-In page and plug in your model. You might be surprised what a "vintage" iPad Pro is worth toward a new M5 model.
- Verify Case Compatibility: If you're buying a case, search specifically for your generation (e.g., "iPad Air 6th Gen Case") rather than just "iPad Air case."
- Update your Software: Go to Settings > General > Software Update. Now that you know your version, you can see if you're eligible for the latest iPadOS features or if you're at the "end of the line" for updates.