You’ve seen it on TikTok. You’ve probably seen it at Sephora, standing there in those sleek, gold-clicky pens that look more like high-end stationery than a lip product. The Phantom Volumizing Glossy Balm by Hourglass is one of those rare beauty items that actually managed to break the internet without relying on a weird gimmick. Honestly, it’s just a really good, really expensive hybrid. But before you drop 36 dollars on a tube that you can't even retract, let's talk about what's actually happening inside that formula.
It's a weird category.
Is it a balm? Is it a gloss? Is it a lipstick? It's basically all three mashed into one "solid oil" format. When you press it onto your lips, the heat from your skin melts the wax-heavy structure into a high-shine liquid. It’s satisfying. It feels rich. But there are some quirks about this specific product that most influencers gloss over—pun intended—because they’re too busy showing off the shine in ring light.
The Chemistry of the "3-in-1" Claim
The magic here isn't magic; it's a specific blend of Menthyl Lactate and a proprietary vegan complex. Unlike traditional lip plumpers that use capsicum (chili pepper) or bee venom to irritate the lips into swelling, the Phantom Volumizing Glossy Balm uses Menthyl Lactate for a cooling, refreshing sensation. It’s a milder approach. You get a slight tingle, but you won't feel like you've rubbed a habanero on your mouth.
The "volumizing" part of the name is actually a bit of a clever marketing play. While it does have those cooling agents, the majority of the "volume" comes from the refractive index of the gloss. Because the formula is so thick and reflective, it fills in fine lines—what makeup artists call "lip wrinkles"—and bounces light back in a way that makes the lips appear physically larger. It’s an optical illusion bolstered by a very slight physiological tingle.
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Why the "No-Retract" Design Matters
If you buy this, don’t click it up too far. Seriously. One of the biggest complaints on Reddit and Sephora reviews is people ruining their new balm by clicking it ten times to see the product. It doesn't go back down. This isn't Hourglass being mean; it's a structural necessity. Because the formula is designed to melt at body temperature, it’s incredibly soft. If the mechanism allowed it to move up and down, the structural integrity of the "bullet" would collapse and turn into a mushy mess inside the tube.
Just one or two clicks. That's all you need.
Comparing the Shades: From Trace to Reveal
Not all shades are created equal. If you’re looking for high pigment, you’ll gravitate toward Lucid (a bright orange-coral) or Thrilling (a deep berry). However, the "cult favorites" are almost always the neutrals. Slip is that perfect light mauve that everyone seems to want, while Trace offers a beige-brown that looks incredibly sophisticated on medium skin tones.
What’s interesting is how the opacity shifts. The lighter shades like Mist (a pale pink) can sometimes settle into lip lines if your lips are particularly dry. On the flip side, the darker shades act more like a sheer stain with a massive amount of shine on top.
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- Slip: The universal mauve.
- Haze: A deeper rose that looks great on everyone.
- Lure: A deep berry for when you want to feel a bit more "done."
- Entice: A bright, poppy pink.
The Competition: Is Hourglass Still the King?
Lately, we’ve seen a massive influx of "glossy balm" hybrids. The Tarte Maracuja Juicy Lip is the most obvious comparison. Tarte is cheaper. It’s fruitier. But the Hourglass Phantom Volumizing Glossy Balm feels... different. It’s heavier. There’s a weight to the Hourglass formula that feels more like a treatment and less like a sticky gloss.
Then you have the high-end competitors like the YSL Candy Glaze. YSL has more fragrance and a slightly more "slick" feel, whereas Hourglass feels more "cushiony." If you hate the feeling of your hair getting stuck in your lip gloss, Hourglass actually performs surprisingly well. It has a grip to it. It’s not "sticky" in the 2004-era sense, but it’s definitely "tacky" enough to stay on your lips for more than twenty minutes.
Common Misconceptions About the Formula
One thing people get wrong is thinking this is a long-wear product. It’s not. It’s a balm. You will have to reapply after coffee. You will definitely have to reapply after a sandwich. But because it’s a balm, it leaves your lips feeling better after it wears off, which is where the "treatment" aspect comes in. It contains emollients and oils that actually hydrate, rather than just sitting on top of the skin.
Also, some users expect a stinging sensation like the Too Faced Lip Injection. If you want that "stung by a bee" look, this isn't the product for you. The Phantom Volumizing Glossy Balm is about comfort and elegance. It’s for the person who wants to look polished in a Zoom meeting without looking like they tried too hard.
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Real Talk: The Price Tag
Let’s be real—$36 is a lot for a lip balm. You’re paying for the brand name, the heavy gold packaging, and the specific "melt" technology. Is there a drugstore dupe? Some people point to the NYX Fat Oil Slick Clicks. They’re great! They really are. But they don't have that specific cooling sensation or the same level of high-gloss "glass" finish that Hourglass achieved.
How to Get the Best Results
If you want the product to actually stay put, don't apply it over a thick layer of existing lip balm. It’ll just slide right off. Use it on clean, dry lips. If you want a more defined look, line your lips first with a neutral liner—something like Charlotte Tilbury’s Pillow Talk or the Hourglass Shape & Sculpt liner—and then fill in the center with the Glossy Balm. This prevents the edges from "bleeding" into the fine lines around the mouth, which can happen with high-shine formulas.
Important Storage Tip
Keep this out of your hot car. Seriously. Because the melting point is so low, a summer day in a glove box will turn your $36 investment into an expensive puddle of oil. Keep it in your purse or at your desk.
The Final Verdict on Phantom Volumizing Glossy Balm
This product is for the person who loves luxury and wants a one-and-done lip product. It’s for someone who values the "experience" of application—the click, the cooling, the weight of the metal. If you’re on a budget, there are plenty of other options that provide shine, but few that provide this specific "glass-like" finish combined with a cooling treatment.
It’s a luxury. It’s a splurge. But for many, the way it makes their lips look in photos and in person is worth the price of entry.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Best Lip Look
- Exfoliate first: High-shine balms highlight flakes. Use a damp washcloth or a sugar scrub before applying to ensure a smooth surface.
- Start with one click: You can always add more, but you can't put the product back in the tube once it's out.
- Store it vertically: To keep the formula settled and prevent any leaking during temperature shifts, keep it upright in your bag or vanity.
- Layer for intensity: One swipe gives a sheer wash of color; three swipes give you a high-impact, lipstick-like finish.
- Check the expiration: Like most products with high oil content and no heavy preservatives, these can go off after 12-18 months. If the smell changes, it's time to toss it.