Madrid is a city of vertical ambitions. You see it in the architecture of the Gran Vía, where the Metropolis Building’s winged victory looks down on a sea of taxis and tourists. But if you look up toward the end of the street, you’ll see the Edificio España. It’s huge. It's iconic. And inside, it's the Hotel Riu Plaza España. Honestly, if you’ve spent any time on Instagram lately, you’ve seen the glass walkway. You know the one. People standing 27 stories above the pavement, looking like they’re walking on air, while their friends frantically try to get the lighting right.
But here’s the thing. Staying at the Hotel Riu Plaza España is a weirdly polarizing experience for seasoned travelers. Some people swear it's the only place to stay in Madrid because of the 360-degree views, while others find the sheer volume of non-guests clogging up the elevators a bit much. It’s a massive operation. We’re talking over 550 rooms. It’s not a boutique experience, and it doesn't try to be. It’s a spectacle.
The Reality of Staying in the Edificio España
The building itself has a wild history. It was finished in 1953, a symbol of Franco-era prestige, and for a long time, it sat basically empty, rotting away in the center of one of Europe’s busiest cities. When Riu took it over and reopened it in 2019, it was a massive deal for Madrid’s skyline. They kept the Neo-Baroque facade, which is gorgeous, but the inside is pure modern luxury—or at least, the Riu version of it.
The lobby is gold. Like, really gold. It’s designed to impress you the second you walk in from the Plaza de España. If you’re checking in, you’ll notice the energy is high. It’s loud. It’s busy. You’ve got people coming in for conventions, families on vacation, and influencers headed straight for the roof.
The rooms are surprisingly quiet, though. You’d think being on the corner of Gran Vía and Princesa would be a nightmare for noise, but the soundproofing is top-tier. The design is clean—lots of whites, greys, and those signature Riu violet accents. Is it the most soulful room in Spain? Probably not. But it’s functional, the beds are massive, and if you book a "Deluxe" or higher, the windows are the star of the show. Looking out over the Royal Palace at 7:00 AM before the city wakes up is a vibe you can't really replicate elsewhere.
Why Everyone Is Obsessed With the 27th Floor
Let’s talk about the De Madrid al Cielo rooftop bar. This is the Hotel Riu Plaza España’s main selling point. It is, hands down, the most famous rooftop in the city right now.
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Most people don’t realize that you don't actually have to stay at the hotel to go up there. Non-guests pay a cover charge—usually around 10 or 20 Euros depending on the time and day—just to ride the elevator. This creates a bit of a logistical jam. If you’re a guest, you have a separate line, which is a lifesaver, because the public line can wrap around the building on a Saturday night.
The glass walkway is the main event. It’s a 4.5-meter long corridor of reinforced glass. Walking across it for the first time is genuinely terrifying if you have even a slight fear of heights. You’re looking straight down at the renovated Plaza de España below.
- The 360-degree view: You can see the Casa de Campo (Madrid’s massive park), the Royal Palace, the Almudena Cathedral, and the mountains of the Sierra de Guadarrama in the distance.
- The drinks: They’re expensive. You’re paying for the view, not a world-class mixology experience. A gin and tonic will run you significantly more than at a neighborhood bar in Malasaña.
- The crowd: It’s a mix. You’ve got locals showing off the city to visiting friends, tourists in fast-fashion outfits, and the occasional business traveler looking overwhelmed.
The Location Factor: Convenience vs. Chaos
Plaza de España has changed a lot in the last few years. The city poured millions into pedestrianizing the area, linking the square to the Sabatini Gardens and the Temple of Debod. Staying at the Riu means you are at the literal nexus of the city.
You can walk to the Royal Palace in five minutes. You can be in the middle of the Gran Vía shopping district in two. The Plaza de España metro station is right outside the door, giving you access to the 3 and 10 lines.
But there’s a trade-off. It’s crowded. Constantly. If you’re the kind of traveler who likes to find a quiet "local" cafe for breakfast where no one speaks English, this isn't your neighborhood. You are in the heart of the machine. The upside is that you’re never more than ten minutes away from anything. The downside is that you never quite feel like you’ve escaped the tourist bubble until you walk several blocks into the backstreets of Conde Duque or Argüelles.
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What Most People Get Wrong About the Amenities
People assume that because it’s a Riu, it’s like an all-inclusive resort in Cancun. It’s not. This is a "Plaza" hotel, which is their urban line.
The breakfast buffet is legendary for its size, but it can feel a bit like a cafeteria during peak hours. If you go at 9:30 AM, be prepared for a wait and a lot of noise. They have everything, though—Spanish tortilla, churros, fresh fruit, custom omelets, and even cava if you’re feeling like a boozy breakfast.
There is an outdoor pool on the 21st floor. It’s beautiful, but it’s small. And it’s only open during the summer months. Don't show up in November expecting to do laps. Also, because of the building's shape, the pool area gets shaded at certain times of the day, so time your sunbathing carefully.
The gym is decent. It’s not a full-scale fitness club, but it has enough Technogym equipment to keep you from feeling too guilty about all the tapas you’re eating. It’s located on a lower floor, so don't expect the panoramic views while you're on the treadmill.
Is It Worth the Price Tag?
The Hotel Riu Plaza España is rarely "cheap." You’re paying for the brand, the renovation, and that specific location. Rates fluctuate wildly. During a random Tuesday in February, you might snag a room for 180 Euros. On a holiday weekend in May? You could be looking at 400 Euros or more.
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If you are a first-time visitor to Madrid and you want that "wow" factor, it’s worth it. There is something undeniably cool about having the tallest building in the immediate vicinity as your home base. If you’ve been to Madrid five times and prefer the charm of the Literary Quarter (Barrio de las Letras), you’ll probably find the Riu a bit sterile and corporate.
Real Talk: The Elevator Situation
I have to mention the elevators. It’s the one thing people complain about most in reviews. Because the rooftop bar is so popular, the elevator system is under constant strain. They have a smart-system where you pick your floor on a touch screen outside the lift, but even then, you might find yourself waiting five minutes just to get down to the lobby. If you’re in a rush for a tour or a dinner reservation, give yourself an extra ten-minute buffer.
Hidden Gems Nearby
Since you're staying at the Riu, don't just eat at the hotel.
- Temple of Debod: Walk five minutes west at sunset. It’s an authentic Egyptian temple gifted to Spain. The reflection in the water with the Riu in the background is the "reverse" of the view you get from the hotel roof.
- Conde Duque: Walk north for ten minutes. This neighborhood is full of craft beer bars and small boutiques. It feels much more "real" than the Gran Vía.
- Casa de Campo: Take the cable car (Teleférico) nearby for a different view of the city and some actual green space.
A Note on Sustainability and Design
The renovation of the Edificio España was a massive undertaking for the city's heritage. For years, there was a huge legal battle about whether the facade could be torn down. Riu eventually agreed to keep the historic shell while gutting the interior. From a sustainability standpoint, the hotel uses LED lighting throughout and has implemented water-saving systems, though a massive 500-room skyscraper will always have a significant footprint.
The interior design by Rivero & Asociados tries to bridge the gap between the 1950s heritage and 21st-century luxury. You’ll see a lot of marble, brass, and velvet. It’s "Madrid Modern." It feels expensive, but it also feels like it was designed to be photographed.
Actionable Tips for Your Stay
- Book the "Side Sea View" equivalent: In Madrid, that means a room facing the Royal Palace. Specify that you want a high floor facing South/West. If you face North, you’re looking at less impressive residential blocks.
- Skip the public rooftop line: As a guest, you have a dedicated entrance for the 360° Rooftop Bar. Use it. Even if you aren't buying a drink, you can usually go up and take a quick photo for free as a resident.
- Time your breakfast: Go before 8:00 AM or after 10:15 AM to avoid the "cruise ship" feel of the buffet crowd.
- Use the back exit: The main entrance onto Plaza de España is always chaotic. Sometimes it’s faster to exit through the side if you’re heading toward the Malasaña district.
- Check the wind: The rooftop can get incredibly windy. Even if it's a warm day on the ground, bring a light jacket if you plan on spending an hour at the bar. The "wind tunnel" effect at that height is no joke.
- Download the Riu App: You can handle most requests, like extra towels or late check-out inquiries, through the app without having to wait in line at the front desk.
- Validate your "Sky" expectations: The glass floor is cool, but if it’s raining, they often close the outdoor terrace sections for safety. Check the forecast before you get your heart set on that specific photo.
Staying at the Hotel Riu Plaza España is about being in the middle of the noise and the beauty of Madrid. It's a high-energy, high-altitude experience that serves as a perfect jumping-off point for exploring the capital, provided you don't mind sharing the view with a few hundred of your newest friends.