New Orleans has a weird way of making you feel like you've stepped through a tear in the fabric of time. One minute you're dodging a streetcar on St. Charles, and the next, you're standing in the quiet, sun-dappled courtyard of a 19th-century schoolhouse. If you've spent any time looking for a place to stay that isn't a beige box near Canal Street, you've probably seen photos of Hotel Peter and Paul. It’s everywhere on Instagram. But social media fame usually hides the grit, and honestly, the grit is the best part of this place.
Located in the Faubourg Marigny, this isn't just a hotel; it’s a four-building secular sanctuary. It’s the result of a massive, four-year restoration of the former St. Peter and Paul Catholic church, schoolhouse, rectory, and convent. It’s a lot. Nathalie Jordi, a local resident, teamed up with the design firm ASH NYC to pull this off, and they didn’t just "renovate" it. They basically obsessed over every floorboard and paint chip until the soul of the building felt intact.
What it’s actually like inside Hotel Peter and Paul
Walking into the schoolhouse—which serves as the main hub—is sort of disorienting in the best way. It smells like old wood and expensive candles. You won’t find a traditional lobby with a massive marble desk and a guy in a stiff suit. Instead, there’s a small check-in area and then the Elysian Bar, which is pretty much the heartbeat of the property.
The rooms are scattered across the four buildings. This is important: every single room is different. If you stay in the Schoolhouse, you might get a room with a chalkboard or a vintage desk that feels like you’re about to take a 1920s geography exam. The Rectory feels more formal, almost hushed. The Convent is cozy. Then there’s the Church itself, which is now an events space where they hold everything from yoga to weddings. It’s deconsecrated, so you don't have to worry about lightning striking if you have a cocktail in there, but the stained glass still does that thing where it throws technicolor light across the floor at 4:00 PM. It's beautiful. Truly.
The design palette is strictly tied to the original religious colors of the 14th through 18th centuries. Think deep ochre, cypress green, and a specific shade of "Virgin Mary blue." There’s no IKEA here. It’s all custom-made rugs from India and antique furniture sourced from auctions across Europe and the South.
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The Marigny vs. The French Quarter
Most people think they want to stay in the French Quarter. They’re usually wrong. The Quarter is great for a walk, but sleeping there is like trying to nap inside a trombone. The Marigny is where you actually want to be. Hotel Peter and Paul sits right in the middle of this neighborhood, which is full of Creole cottages, hidden jazz clubs on Frenchmen Street, and actual locals who will talk your ear off if you let them.
You’re close enough to the action to walk to Snug Harbor for a set, but far enough away that you can actually hear the birds in the morning. Honestly, the walk from the hotel to the river is one of the best strolls in the city. You pass by Washington Square Park and houses painted colors that shouldn't work together but somehow do.
The Elysian Bar: Not your average hotel restaurant
Let’s talk about the food. You can’t mention Hotel Peter and Paul without talking about The Elysian Bar. It’s run by the folks from Bacchanal (the legendary wine shop in the Bywater), so the pedigree is solid. It’s not a stuffy dining room. It’s a series of interconnected spaces: a sunroom, a courtyard, and a bar that looks like it was plucked out of a Wes Anderson movie set in 19th-century Italy.
The menu is seasonal. They do a shrimp cocktail that actually tastes like the Gulf, and the small plates are meant for lingering. It’s the kind of place where you sit down for one drink and suddenly realize three hours have passed and you’ve made friends with the person at the next table. That’s the New Orleans magic. It happens here a lot.
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The rooms: A breakdown of where to sleep
Picking a room here is a bit of a gamble because they vary so much in size and vibe.
- The Schoolhouse: Best for people who like light. Large windows, high ceilings.
- The Rectory: Best for a romantic weekend. It feels more intimate, a bit more "grand house."
- The Convent: A bit more modest, but in a charming, "I'm writing a novel" kind of way.
- The Artist Lofts: These are the big ones. If you have the budget, go for these.
One thing to note—and this is a "real talk" moment—the building is old. That means the walls aren't soundproofed like a modern Marriott. You might hear a floorboard creak or a door shut down the hall. For most, that’s part of the charm. If you need total sensory deprivation to sleep, maybe bring some earplugs.
Why this project matters for New Orleans architecture
The restoration of Hotel Peter and Paul wasn't just about making a cool hotel. It saved a massive piece of neighborhood history that was literally crumbling. When the Archdiocese of New Orleans closed the parish in 2001, these buildings sat empty for years. In a city where historic buildings are often lost to neglect or "modernized" into oblivion, what happened here is a bit of a miracle.
They kept the original cypress wood. They kept the transoms. They even kept the old school bells. It’s a masterclass in "adaptive reuse," a fancy term for not tearing down old stuff just because it’s hard to fix. The complexity of the project is visible in the details—like how they had to retrofit modern plumbing and HVAC into 150-year-old brick walls without making it look like a construction site.
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Things people get wrong about staying here
People often assume it's going to be "creepy" because it's an old church and convent. It’s not. It doesn’t have that heavy, gothic horror vibe. It feels bright and communal. Another misconception is that it’s too far from the "real" New Orleans. The irony is that this is the real New Orleans. The French Quarter is a beautiful museum, but the Marigny is a living, breathing neighborhood.
Real world tips for your stay
If you're going to book a stay, here are some things you actually need to know.
- Skip the car. Parking in the Marigny is a nightmare. The streets are narrow, and the hotel doesn't have a massive parking garage. Use ride-shares or just walk. The city is flat and very walkable.
- Check the events calendar. The Church space hosts some incredible local programming. I’ve seen everything from classical concerts to local markets. It’s worth checking what’s happening during your stay.
- The Coffee Bar. There’s a little coffee window in the morning. Get the pastry. Don't ask questions, just do it.
- Explore the Bywater. While you're staying at Hotel Peter and Paul, you're right on the edge of the Bywater neighborhood. Walk down Royal Street towards Elizabeth’s for breakfast or The Joint for BBQ.
The Verdict
Is Hotel Peter and Paul for everyone? Probably not. If you want a gym with 50 treadmills, a 24-hour business center, and a room that looks like every other room you've ever stayed in, you’ll be disappointed. But if you want to feel like you’ve actually lived in New Orleans for a few days, there isn't a better spot.
It’s a place that respects the past without being a museum. It’s comfortable but not corporate. It’s basically the hotel equivalent of a perfectly mixed Sazerac: a little bit bitter, a little bit sweet, and definitely has a kick.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check Availability Early: Because each room is unique, the "best" ones (like the lofts or the sun-drenched schoolhouse corners) book up months in advance, especially during Jazz Fest or Mardi Gras.
- Book The Elysian Bar Ahead: Even if you aren't staying at the hotel, the bar is a destination for locals. If you want a table for dinner on a Friday night, don't just show up; make a reservation through their website.
- Pack for Walking: The Marigny and Bywater are best explored on foot. Bring shoes that can handle uneven 19th-century sidewalks.
- Visit the Sundries Shop: The hotel has a curated shop with local goods. It’s actually good stuff—not your typical "I Heart NOLA" keychains. It’s a great place to find a gift that doesn't feel like a tourist trap.