If you stand in the center of Avignon and look up, the Palais des Papes feels like it’s going to swallow you whole. It’s huge. It’s imposing. And honestly, it can feel a little cold. But right across the cobblestones, tucked behind a baroque facade that looks like it was plucked from a film set, is Hotel La Mirande Avignon.
Most people walk past it on their way to see the Pope’s old digs. That’s a mistake.
You see, La Mirande isn't just a hotel. It’s a 700-year-old time machine. It started life in 1309 as a "livery" for the Cardinal de Pellegrue. Back then, if you were a high-ranking church official, you didn’t just want a room; you wanted a palace. For centuries, this place hosted banquets that would make a modern wedding look like a backyard BBQ. Today, it’s owned by the Stein family, who spent years—and a small fortune—turning it back into an 18th-century nobleman’s townhouse.
The Design: It's Kinda Like Living in a Painting
When you walk into the lobby, the first thing you notice is the silence. The thick stone walls just eat the noise from the tourists outside.
Every one of the 26 rooms is different. We aren't talking about "boutique hotel" different where they just change the color of the throw pillows. I mean completely unique. They use these historic French cotton prints called Toile de Jouy. Names like La Rivière Enchantée and Le Singe Savant. If you don't speak French, that's "The Enchanted River" and "The Wise Monkey."
Small Details That Matter
- The Mirrors: You’ll look for a TV and won't find one. Then you realize it's actually hidden inside the mirror. It keeps the 1700s vibe alive without making you miss the news.
- The Floors: Original terracotta tiles and 18th-century oak parquet. They creak in that satisfying, expensive way.
- The Walls: They aren't just painted. They’re lined with silk or covered in hand-printed wallpaper from some of the oldest factories in France.
It’s the opposite of a sterile corporate hotel. It’s plush. It’s moody. It’s a bit over-the-top. But in a city like Avignon, over-the-top is exactly what you want.
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Eating at Hotel La Mirande Avignon: Michelin Stars and Old Stoves
Food is basically the religion here. You have two main choices, and they couldn't be more different.
First, there’s the gastronomic restaurant. Chef Florent Pietravalle has been running the show since 2016. He’s got a Michelin star and a Green Star for sustainability. His food is... wild. He uses stuff from the hotel’s own organic garden. You might get a dish with 20 different herbs you’ve never heard of, or something fermented in a way that sounds weird but tastes incredible.
But the real secret? La Table Haute.
Downstairs in the medieval part of the building, there’s an old 19th-century kitchen. It has a massive wood-burning stove that looks like it belongs in a museum. A small group of guests (usually about 12 to 14) sits around a big sycamore table while the chef cooks right in front of you.
It feels like Downton Abbey if the servants let you hang out in the basement. You share wine, you talk to strangers, and you eat food that tastes like the French countryside. It’s arguably the coolest dining experience in Provence.
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What Most People Get Wrong About the Location
You’ll hear people say Avignon is "too touristy."
Sure, the main square can get crowded. But Hotel La Mirande Avignon is tucked into a little corner called Place de l'Amirande. It’s literally at the foot of the Palais des Papes. You can look out your window and see the stone buttresses of the palace glowing orange in the sunset.
Because it’s in the "intra-muros" (inside the walls) part of the city, you have to navigate some seriously narrow streets. If you’re driving a rental car, be warned: those medieval alleys were built for horses, not SUVs. The hotel has valet parking, and you should use it. Don't try to be a hero.
Practical Advice for Your Stay
Honestly, don't just stay here for one night. You need time to let the atmosphere sink in.
- Book the Tea Time: Even if you aren't staying at the hotel, go for tea. They have this "white cheesecake" that people rave about. You sit in the glass-covered patio or the Salon Rouge with its 17th-century painted ceiling. It’s the best way to see the hotel without paying for a suite.
- The Cooking School: It’s called Le Marmiton. It’s been around since 1994. You actually go to the local market with a chef, pick out ingredients, and then head back to that 19th-century kitchen to cook.
- Check the Heat: One weird thing to look out for—some guests in late 2025 noted the heating in the winter can be very intense. If you like your room cool, make sure to ask the staff about the climate control as soon as you check in.
- The View: Ask for a room facing the Palace. Not all of them do, and while the garden views are pretty, nothing beats seeing the papal walls first thing in the morning.
Is It Worth the Price Tag?
It isn't cheap. Rooms can easily run from €500 to well over €1,500 for the top-tier suites.
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But you aren't just paying for a bed. You’re paying for the fact that you’re sleeping in a building that has survived the Black Death, the French Revolution, and two World Wars. You’re paying for Martin Stein’s obsession with finding the exact right shade of 18th-century blue for the curtains.
If you want a modern hotel with a gym and a rooftop pool, go somewhere else. There is no gym here. There is no "vibe" music in the lobby.
It’s about "Art de Vivre"—the art of living. It’s slow. It’s quiet. It’s very, very French.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Check the official website for the "Le Marmiton" cooking school schedule at least three months in advance, as classes fill up quickly.
- If you are visiting during the Avignon Festival in July, book your room at least a year out; the hotel becomes the unofficial hub for the world’s elite theater crowd.
- Make a reservation for La Table Haute specifically for a Tuesday or Wednesday night when the main restaurant is usually closed, as this is when the communal kitchen experience is at its best.