You’ve probably heard the name Holtermann’s Bakery. Maybe you saw the recent headlines about Whoopi Goldberg and a certain cupcake order that went sideways. Or maybe you're just a local who knows that if you aren't at the counter by 8:00 AM on a Sunday, you’re basically fighting for scraps.
But honestly? Most people outside of Great Kills don't really get why this place matters. They think it's just another old-school shop. It isn't.
Holtermann's is a time capsule. It’s been sitting on Arthur Kill Road since the 1930s, though the business itself started way back in 1878. That makes it the oldest family-owned bakery in the borough. Think about that. When Claus Holtermann started selling bread from a basket door-to-door, the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge didn't even exist as a blueprint.
The Charlotte Russe Mystery
If you walk into Holtermann's Bakery in Staten Island and don't look for the Charlotte Russe, you’re doing it wrong. Sorta.
Most people have no idea what a Charlotte Russe even is. It sounds like something you’d find at a fancy Parisian tea room, but in New York, it was the ultimate street food. It’s basically a push-pop made of cake. You’ve got a little cardboard sleeve with a movable bottom, a disc of sponge cake, a dollop of jam, and a mountain of whipped cream topped with a maraschino cherry.
You eat it by pushing your thumb up through the bottom. It’s messy. It’s archaic. And Holtermann’s is one of the last places on the entire planet that still makes them.
Why? Because they’re a pain to make. They don't fit into modern, high-speed production lines. They require a specific kind of cardboard shell that almost nobody manufactures anymore. At Holtermann’s, they aren’t treated like some rare museum artifact. They just sit there in the case next to the black-and-white cookies, waiting for someone who remembers the "Brooklyn Ambrosia" to come and claim one.
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The 60-Year-Old Boiler Incident
We have to talk about the cupcakes.
In late 2024, the bakery got caught in a media firestorm. Whoopi Goldberg claimed on The View that she was denied a large order of "Charlotte Russe" cupcakes because of her political stance. The internet, predictably, went into a total meltdown.
The reality? It was way less dramatic and way more "small business" than people wanted to believe.
Jill Holtermann, the fifth-generation owner, had to stand in front of a pack of cameras to explain that her boiler had died. The thing was nearly 70 years old. When you’re running a bakery that’s been in the family for 145 years, you aren't dealing with state-of-the-art industrial infrastructure. You’re dealing with equipment that has its own personality. They couldn't guarantee the order because they literally couldn't heat the building or the ovens reliably that week.
People love a good conspiracy. But sometimes, a bakery is just a bakery trying to fix a pipe.
What to Actually Buy (Besides the Hype)
If you’re making the trek—and it is a trek if you’re coming from any other borough—you need a game plan.
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The Sunday donuts are the stuff of legend. Specifically, the glazed cake donuts. They only make them on Sundays. They use a custom-built Pitco fry-later that replaced a model from 1956. Each donut looks slightly different because they’re hand-cut. They are heavy, they are sweet, and they will ruin Dunkin' for you forever.
Then there’s the Crumb Cake.
Most NYC crumb cakes are like 20% cake and 80% dry sand. Holtermann’s gets the ratio right. The crumbs are large, buttery, and slightly soft. They stack the white-and-blue boxes high in the back, and by noon, that stack is usually gone.
Other essentials to grab:
- The Lemon Flip: A hand-held pie that isn't cloyingly sweet.
- Pecan Rings: Very buttery, very sticky, and perfect with a cheap cup of black coffee.
- Pullman Bread: It’s shaped like a perfect rectangle, designed originally to be stacked on Pullman train cars. It makes the best French toast you’ve ever had.
The "Last Generation" Anxiety
There is a bit of a bittersweet vibe if you talk to the staff long enough. Jill and her brother Billy are the current stewards, but the future is always a question mark in these old family legacies. Running a 145-year-old business in 2026 isn't exactly a walk in the park.
The margins on a jelly donut haven't kept pace with the cost of living in New York. Yet, they refuse to change the recipes. They still use the German-style methods passed down from Claus and Albert. They still know their customers by name.
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It’s a "family-oriented" spot in a world that’s increasingly corporate. You’ll see kids who are the fourth generation of customers coming in for their birthday cakes. That kind of loyalty is the only reason Holtermann’s survived the era of low-carb diets and the rise of artisanal $8 cupcakes.
Getting There Without Losing Your Mind
If you don't live on Staten Island, getting to 405 Arthur Kill Road is a commitment.
From Manhattan, you’re looking at the ferry and then a bus ride that feels like it’s taking you to another state. If you have a car, there’s a massive parking lot—which is a rarity in NYC—but the traffic on Arthur Kill Road can be brutal.
Pro tips for your visit:
- Bring Cash (Mostly): They do take cards now, but the locals still tend to peel off singles. It just moves faster.
- The Sunday Rule: If you want the donuts, get there when they open at 7:00 AM. If you show up at 11:00 AM, you’re getting a bagel.
- No Restrooms: It’s an old-school storefront. Don't expect a cafe experience where you can sit and work on your laptop for three hours. You buy your bag of treats, you leave, and you eat them in your car or at the nearby park.
Why It Matters
In a city that's constantly tearing itself down to build glass towers, Holtermann’s is a reminder of what New York used to be. It’s not "artisanal" or "curated." It’s just a bakery. It smells like yeast and sugar. The floor probably needs a buffing. The girls behind the counter are going to call you "hon" or "sweetheart" and tell you to have a nice day.
It’s a piece of living history that happens to sell really good crumb cake.
Next Steps for Your Visit:
Check the bakery’s Facebook or Instagram before you go—especially if you're traveling from afar—to ensure they haven't sold out of the Sunday specials or had another "boiler incident." If you’re planning a large order (like those famous Charlotte Russes), call at least 48 hours in advance at (718) 984-7095. Most importantly, grab a box of the rainbow cookies for the ride home; they’re denser and more almond-forward than the ones you'll find at the supermarket.