You ever walk into a place and feel like the air itself is heavier? Not in a bad way, but like the walls are actually saturated with 140-something years of butter and sugar. That’s the vibe at Holtermann’s Bakery Staten Island NY. It’s not one of those "reclaimed wood and Edison bulb" spots trying to look old. It’s just old. Since 1878, to be exact.
Honestly, in a city like New York where businesses vanish faster than a subway seat on a Friday night, Holtermann’s is a bit of a statistical miracle. It’s the oldest family-owned bakery in the borough. It’s survived world wars, the Great Depression, and more recently, a weirdly intense media cycle involving a certain celebrity and some cupcakes. But if you ask the people standing in line on Arthur Kill Road, they aren’t there for the drama. They’re there because the crumb cake is basically a religious experience.
The Secret History of the Great Kills Icon
Claus Holtermann, a German immigrant, started this whole thing by literally walking around Staten Island with a basket of bread. This was back when the island was mostly farms and dirt roads. Eventually, the basket turned into a horse-drawn wagon, then a fleet of trucks, and finally the brick-and-mortar headquarters we see today.
Albert Holtermann, Claus’s son, actually built the current storefront by hand in the 1930s. Think about that for a second. While most of the country was reeling from the market crash, this guy was laying bricks so his neighbors could still get a fresh roll for dinner. Today, Jill Holtermann Bowers and Billy Holtermann keep the gears turning. They’re the fourth and fifth generations. That kind of continuity is rare. It’s almost unheard of.
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What to Actually Order (and What to Skip)
Look, I’ll be real with you. Not everything in a 145-year-old bakery is going to be your "vibe" if you’re used to high-end French patisseries. But that’s the point. This is German-American baking in its purest, most nostalgic form.
The Famous Charlotte Russe
If you’ve never had a Charlotte Russe, Holtermann’s is one of the last places on the planet—literally—where you can get the real deal. It’s a weird, beautiful little thing. Basically a disc of sponge cake at the bottom of a cardboard push-up tube, topped with a dollop of jam and a mountain of whipped cream with a cherry on top. You eat it by pushing the bottom up with your thumb. It’s a "Charley Roosh," as the old-timers say. It’s light, it’s retro, and it feels like 1952 in a cup.
The Crumb Cake and Meltaways
You haven't lived until you've tried their crumb cake. The ratio of "crumb" to "cake" is aggressive. Like, the crumbs are the size of golf balls.
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- The Apple Meltaway: This is the heavy hitter. It’s dense, sweet, and perfect for a family gathering where you want people to stop talking and just chew happily.
- Pecan Rings: These are buttery, nutty, and sort of dangerous because you’ll tell yourself you’re only having a sliver and then suddenly half the ring is gone.
The Donuts
Some people swear the donuts are the best in the city. Are they fancy? No. Are they "artisanal"? God, no. They are just solid, fluffy, old-school donuts. The custard-filled ones are usually the first to sell out, so if you’re getting there at noon, you’re probably out of luck.
The Whoopi Goldberg Incident: What Really Happened?
In late 2024, the bakery got thrust into a national spotlight for reasons that had nothing to do with flour. Whoopi Goldberg claimed on The View that the bakery had potentially refused her order due to her politics.
The reality? It was way more boring (and relatable). The bakery had a boiler that was nearly 70 years old. It broke. When you’re a high-volume bakery and your equipment fails, you can’t commit to big orders. Jill Holtermann stood her ground, explaining it was a mechanical failure, not a political statement. The local community responded by lining up around the block for weeks just to show support. It turns out, when you’ve been feeding a neighborhood for a century and a half, people tend to have your back.
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Is it Worth the Trip?
If you live in Manhattan or Brooklyn, getting to Great Kills is... a journey. You’re looking at a ferry ride and a long bus trip or a hefty Uber bill.
But here’s the thing: Holtermann’s isn't just a bakery. It's a time capsule. When you see the blue-and-white striped boxes stacked to the ceiling, you’re seeing a piece of New York City history that is rapidly disappearing.
Pro-tip for your visit:
- Go early. Like, 8:00 AM early. The best stuff (donuts and specific Danishes) goes fast.
- Bring cash. They take cards now, but the vibe is very much "cash is king."
- Check the hours. They usually close around 6:00 PM on weekdays and earlier on Sundays.
- Order the Lard Bread. It’s savory, heavy, and packed with bits of prosciutto. It’s not health food. Don't pretend it is.
Actionable Steps for Your First Visit
Don't just wander in aimlessly. If you want the full experience, do this:
- The "Starter Pack": Buy one Charlotte Russe, a small box of butter cookies (the ones with the jelly centers), and a loaf of fresh rye bread.
- The "Crowd Pleaser": If you’re visiting friends, grab an Apple Meltaway. It’s about $17.50 and feeds a small army.
- Parking: There is a small lot next to the building, but it’s tight. If you have a big SUV, just look for street parking on Arthur Kill Road or the side streets.
The world is changing, and honestly, most things are getting more expensive and lower quality. Holtermann’s keeps things pretty simple. They use the same recipes they used when horses were still the primary mode of transport on Amboy Road. That’s not just business; that’s a legacy.