You've seen them on Basquiat. You've seen them on Jay-Z during his more recent "no-hairs-cut" eras. There is something undeniably raw about high top freeform dreads. It’s that specific look where the sides and back are kept tight—usually with a high skin fade or a drop fade—while the crown is left to its own devices to knot, tangle, and grow into whatever shape it feels like.
It's not just a haircut. Honestly, it’s more like a long-term relationship with your own biology.
People think "freeform" means you just stop washing your hair. That is a massive mistake. If you do that, you don’t get locs; you get a scalp condition and a smell that won't leave your pillowcase. The truth is that the "high top" version of this journey is actually more maintenance than a full head of freeforms because you have to keep those sides crisp. If the fade grows out, the silhouette disappears, and you just look like you forgot where the barbershop was.
The Reality of Starting High Top Freeform Dreads
Let's get one thing straight: your hair is going to look weird for a while. There’s no way around it. When you decide to go the high top freeform route, you’re essentially committing to the "ugly stage" for anywhere from six months to a year.
Most people start with a sponge. You’ve seen those foam brushes with the holes in them? You rub it in circles, and it encourages the hair to clump together. But here’s the kicker—if you sponge too hard or too often, you’re going to snap your hair at the root. You want to guide the hair, not bully it.
What Actually Happens to the Follicle
When you leave your hair to freeform, you're relying on the natural curl pattern to "interlock." For those with Type 4C hair, this happens relatively quickly because the coils are so tight. But if you have 4A or 3C hair, the process is slower. The "high top" aspect adds a layer of complexity because you have a clear boundary line.
If your barber isn't careful when they're refreshing your fade, they’ll accidentally clip the base of your developing locs. I've seen guys lose months of progress because a clipper blade went a quarter-inch too high. You need a barber who understands the "perimeter."
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Why Your Scalp Health Will Make or Break the Look
The biggest myth in the loc community—especially among those doing high top freeform dreads—is that you shouldn't wash your hair.
Stop.
Clean hair actually locks faster than oily, dirty hair. Oil acts as a lubricant. If your hair fibers are lubricated, they slide past each other instead of knotting up. You need friction.
- Use a residue-free shampoo. Anything with heavy conditioners or "smoothing" agents is your enemy right now.
- Focus on the scalp. Don't scrub the locs themselves too aggressively in the first three months, or they’ll just unravel.
- Cold water rinses are your friend. It closes the cuticle and keeps the frizz somewhat manageable.
If you develop dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis because you stopped washing, those flakes will get trapped inside the loc. Once they’re in there, they are stuck forever. It looks like lint, and it’s a nightmare to get out.
The Cultural Weight of the High Top Silhouette
This isn't just a modern trend. We can look back at the 1980s and the rise of the "Basquiat" look. Jean-Michel Basquiat’s hair wasn't just "messy." It was a deliberate rejection of the hyper-groomed aesthetic of the time. By keeping the sides shorter and letting the top go wild, he created a verticality that demanded attention.
In modern street culture, the high top freeform look is often associated with a certain "IDGAF" attitude, but it’s deeply rooted in African hair traditions where hair isn't forced into European standards of neatness. It’s a middle ground between the structured "Hi-Top Fade" of the Fresh Prince era and the traditional "Congos" or thick freeforms found in various Caribbean cultures.
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Maintenance Without Manipulation
"Semi-freeform" is a term you'll hear a lot. It basically means you started them naturally but you occasionally "pop" them.
Popping is when two locs start to fuse at the base, and you gently pull them apart so they stay as individual units. If you don't do this, your high top freeform dreads will eventually turn into one or two massive "flats" or "wick" style locs. Some people want that. If you don't, you have to stay on top of the separation.
- Dryness is the enemy: Use rosewater. It’s light, it smells good, and it hydrates without leaving a film.
- The Pillow Problem: If you aren't sleeping with a silk or satin durag or bonnet, you're just inviting lint from your cotton sheets to live in your hair. Lint is the silent killer of locs.
- The Fade: Get your taper or fade every 2-3 weeks. The contrast is what makes the style work. Without the sharp lines on the side, the "freeform" part just looks accidental.
Common Mistakes You’re Probably Making
Thinking you need wax. You don't. Ever. Beeswax is a trap. It smells great for a week, and then it becomes a sticky magnet for every bit of dust and lint in a five-mile radius. It’s also nearly impossible to wash out without using water so hot it damages your hair.
Another one? Comparing your journey to someone on YouTube. Hair density, curl diameter, and even the hardness of the water in your shower change how locs form. Some people's hair "buds" (the stage where the loc gets a hard knot inside) in two months. For others, it takes eight.
Patience is a literal requirement. You cannot rush a knot.
Real Examples of the Evolution
Look at someone like Jay-Z. Over the last few years, his hair has transitioned through several stages of the freeform process. He kept the "high top" structure for a long time before letting the back grow out more. Notice how his locs aren't uniform. Some are thicker, some are thinner. That is the soul of the style.
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Then you have athletes who rock the look because it’s functional. It stays out of the eyes but allows for maximum breathability compared to heavy, traditional locs.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Journey
If you’re serious about starting high top freeform dreads, stop overthinking it and start the right way.
First, get a professional "tapered" haircut. Tell your barber you are growing freeforms on top so they know not to touch the length. Buy a microfiber towel—toss your terry cloth towels, as they leave too much lint.
Ditch the heavy creams and gels immediately. Get a simple spray bottle and fill it with distilled water and a few drops of essential oil (peppermint or tea tree are great for the scalp). Spray your hair every morning to give it a little elasticity, then just leave it alone. The best thing you can do for freeforms is to stop touching them. Your hands have oils and dirt that disrupt the locking process.
Finally, document it. Take a photo once a month. You won't notice the changes day-to-day, but in six months, you'll look back at the "fuzzy mess" and realize it was actually the foundation of something legendary. Keep the sides sharp, keep the top clean, and let time do the heavy lifting.