You’ve seen it everywhere. From the local basketball courts to the front rows of Paris Fashion Week, the high top dreads haircut has basically become the unofficial uniform for guys who want the weight of locs without the hassle of a full head of hair. It’s a specific vibe. It’s that sharp, surgical precision of a skin fade meeting the organic, sometimes chaotic texture of dreadlocks on top. Honestly, it’s the contrast that sells it.
The style isn't exactly new. If you look back at the late 80s and early 90s, the "Hi-Top Fade" was the king of the mountain, popularized by icons like Doug E. Fresh and Will Smith. But as the 2010s rolled around, people started growing out the top of those fades into locs. That’s when things got interesting. Rappers like Juice WRLD and J. Cole—early in his career—pushed this aesthetic into the mainstream, proving that you could have a "clean" look that still honored traditional Black hair textures.
The Anatomy of a High Top Dreads Haircut
What are we actually looking at here? It’s pretty simple on paper. You’ve got the locs concentrated on the crown of the head, while the sides and back are shaved down. But "shaved down" is doing a lot of heavy lifting there. You can go with a high bald fade, a drop fade, or even a temple fade if you’re feeling a bit more conservative.
The length of the locs matters more than people think. Short, "starter" locs give off a youthful, high-energy energy. They stand up straight. They look intentional. Then you have the longer, hanging locs that drape over the fade. That’s the "mop top" look that became a staple in the Florida rap scene. It’s grittier. It feels a bit more lived-in.
Why the Fade Matters More Than the Locs
If your fade is trash, the whole look is trash. That's just the reality. The high top dreads haircut relies entirely on the crispness of the hairline and the gradient of the fade to look professional. Without that sharp edge, you just look like you forgot to finish your hair appointment. Most guys hit the barber every two weeks just to keep the sides tight, even if they only get their locs retwisted once every two months.
Maintenance Is Kinda a Paradox
Here is the thing about this style: it’s both easier and harder than full locs. It’s easier because you have 50% less hair to wash, dry, and twist. If you’ve ever tried to dry a full head of waist-length locs, you know it’s a weekend-long project. With a high top, you’re in and out of the shower in twenty minutes.
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But the fade? The fade is a jealous mistress. You can't slack.
- Retwisting the Top: You usually need a palm roll or interlocking session every 4 to 8 weeks. Don't overdo it. Over-twisting causes thinning at the root, and since all your hair is concentrated in one spot, thinning is way more noticeable.
- The Side Hustle: You’re going to spend more money at the barbershop than at the loctician. Keep the nape of your neck clean. A fuzzy neck ruins the silhouette.
- Moisture Balance: Use a light rosewater spray. Avoid heavy waxes. Since the sides are exposed, any buildup or flakes on the top will literally fall down onto your fade like snow. It's not a good look.
Common Misconceptions About the High Top Dreads Haircut
A lot of people think you can just stop cutting the top of your hair and "boom," you have this style. Not really. You need a solid foundation. If your "square" on top isn't sectioned correctly by a professional, the locs will hang weirdly, or you’ll have awkward gaps where the fade meets the hair.
Also, people think this is a "lazy" way to do locs. It’s not. It’s a stylistic choice. Some guys choose this because they have high-density hair that gets too heavy or hot when grown out fully. Others do it to frame their face better. If you have a rounder face, the verticality of the high top actually helps elongate your features. It’s basically hair-contouring.
The "New Growth" Struggle
There is an awkward phase. You knew there would be. When the fade grows out to a certain length—usually around the three-week mark—it starts to blend into the locs in a way that looks messy. This is where most people quit and shave the whole thing off. Don't be that guy. Use a durag or a "loc soc" at night to keep the top laid down and use a brush on the sides to keep the grain of the fade neat.
Famous Variations You Should Know
We can't talk about this without mentioning Odell Beckham Jr. His blonde-tipped high top locs basically reset the trend for athletes everywhere. It showed that you could play with color without it looking overwhelming. Then you have the "freeform" version. Jay-Z’s recent years have shown a move toward more natural, less manicured high tops. It’s less about the "barber shop" look and more about the "soul" look.
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Then there’s the "Dreadlock Mohawk" or the "Fro-Hawk" transition. This is where the fade doesn't go all the way around but stays on the sides, leaving a strip of locs running down to the nape. It’s aggressive. It’s punk rock. It’s not for everyone, but if you can pull it off, you’ll be the loudest person in the room without saying a word.
Choosing Your Loctician vs. Your Barber
This is the most important piece of advice you’ll get: your barber is probably not your loctician. Rarely do you find someone who is a master of both. You need a barber who understands where the "shelf" of the haircut should sit. If they cut too high into your locs, they’ll accidentally snip a loc at the root. It happens more than you’d think.
I’ve seen guys lose an entire year of growth because a barber got too aggressive with the clippers near the temple. Find a barber who is comfortable working around locs. Better yet, find a barber who has locs. They’ll respect the boundary line.
What to Do Before Your First Appointment
If you’re starting from scratch, grow your hair out to at least 3 or 4 inches on top. Don’t go to the shop with a buzz cut expecting a miracle. You need "meat" to work with.
- Check your scalp health: If you have dermatitis or heavy dandruff, get that under control before you start locking. Locs trap everything.
- Pick your sectioning style: Do you want square parts? Diamond? C-shape? Once they’re locked, changing the parts is a nightmare.
- Decide on the fade height: High fades are bold. Mid fades are classic. Low fades are subtle. Look at your head shape in the mirror. If you have a flat back of the head, a drop fade can help create a better profile.
The Reality of Longevity
How long does a high top dreads haircut last? As long as you want it to. But eventually, many guys find they either want to grow the sides out to transition into full locs, or they get tired of the maintenance and go back to a short fade. Transitioning to full locs is a pain because the sides will always be "behind" the top in length. You’ll have to deal with an asymmetrical look for about a year.
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Most people just stick with the high top. It’s a lifestyle choice. It’s the perfect middle ground between the corporate world (where fades are generally accepted) and personal expression.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Move
If you’re ready to pull the trigger on this, don't just walk into a random shop. Start by saving at least five photos of the specific "top" you want and three photos of the "fade" you want. Most people make the mistake of showing a photo of a celebrity whose hair texture is nothing like theirs. If you have 4C hair, don't show your barber a photo of a guy with 3A curls.
Next, buy a satin pillowcase. Seriously. If you’re sleeping on cotton, it’s sucking the moisture out of your locs and leaving lint in them that you’ll never get out. Finally, find a light oil—think jojoba or almond—to keep your scalp happy. A high top exposes a lot of skin, and a dry, flaky scalp is much more visible when there’s a fade involved.
Get your sections done by a pro, keep your barber on speed dial for those bi-weekly touch-ups, and stop touching your hair. The more you mess with it, the more frizz you create. Let it do its thing.