Let’s be real for a second. Most of us spent the early 2000s trying to hide as much of our hips as humanly possible under low-rise board shorts or those skirted bottoms that just ended up feeling heavy in the water. Then, the 80s came back with a vengeance. Suddenly, the high cut one piece swimsuit was everywhere again, from Instagram feeds in Bali to the local community pool. At first, it feels intimidating. You look at that fabric sitting way up above your hip bone and think, "No way." But honestly? There is some serious anatomical magic happening with this specific cut that makes it arguably the most flattering thing you can wear to the beach.
It isn't just about showing skin. It’s about geometry.
When you wear a standard bikini or a traditional scoop-cut one piece, the horizontal line of the leg opening often cuts across the widest part of your thigh. This creates a visual "stop" that can make legs look shorter than they actually are. The high cut—or the "French cut" as it was called when it dominated the 1980s—does the opposite. By shifting that line upward toward the waist, it creates an unbroken vertical line from your toe all the way up to your torso. It’s an optical illusion that works regardless of your actual height.
The Anatomy of a High Leg Opening
Why does it work? Think about the "V" shape.
A high cut one piece swimsuit creates a literal V-shape at the pelvis. According to fashion historians, this trend peaked between 1985 and 1992, popularized by brands like Gottex and iconic imagery from Baywatch. But the modern version is a bit different. While Pamela Anderson’s famous red suit was high-cut, it was also very low-back and thin-strapped. Today’s designs often balance that high leg with more support elsewhere. You’ll find wide straps, ribbed fabrics, and even underwire integrated into these silhouettes.
The physics of it is simple. By exposing the side of the hip, the suit allows the natural curve of the body to dictate the silhouette rather than squeezing it into a restrictive box. If you have a shorter torso, a high-cut leg can sometimes make you look more proportional. If you’re long-legged already, you basically look like a gazelle.
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There's a common misconception that you need a specific "fitness" body to pull this off. That is objectively false. In fact, many people with "pear" or "apple" body shapes find that a higher leg opening prevents the fabric from digging into the thigh, which often causes that uncomfortable pinching sensation we've all felt in cheaper, traditional suits.
Finding the Right Fabric for the High Cut
Not all swimsuits are created equal, and with this much tension on the hip, fabric choice is everything. You've probably noticed that "scrunchy" or ribbed fabric is huge right now. Brands like Hunza G popularized this—using a thick, seamless crinkle-stretch material that expands and contracts. This is perfect for a high cut one piece swimsuit because it stays put.
If you buy a high-cut suit made of thin, cheap polyester, it’s going to migrate. You’ll be pulling it down every five minutes. You want a high elastane content (usually 18% to 22%) or a double-lined Italian Lycra. This ensures that the "high" part of the cut stays on your hip bone and doesn't turn into a high-speed wedgie the moment you jump into a wave.
- Ribbed textures: These provide more "grip" on the skin.
- Matte finishes: Often look more modern and high-end than shiny spandex.
- Compression linings: Look for suits that mention "power mesh" in the front panel if you want a tucked-in feeling.
The Rise of the "Thong" vs. Moderate Coverage
Here is where people get tripped up. Just because a swimsuit is high-cut on the leg doesn't mean it has to be a thong in the back. You can find "cheeky," "moderate," or even "full coverage" versions of a high-cut suit. However, be aware that the higher the leg goes, the more the back naturally tends to narrow. It’s a matter of fabric tension. If you want a high-leg look but hate the idea of a thong, look for "retro-cut" suits. These are designed to mimic the early 90s styles which had a high leg but a very substantial, wide seat.
Celebrity Influence and the "BBL" Aesthetic
We can't talk about the high cut one piece swimsuit without mentioning the Kardashian effect. Over the last decade, the shift in "ideal" body types toward an exaggerated hourglass has made the high-cut suit the gold standard. When you see celebrities like Bella Hadid or Kendall Jenner in these suits, they are often wearing "V-front" styles where the waistband actually dips below the belly button while the sides hiked up.
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This isn't just about being "trendy." It’s a tactical choice. It emphasizes the waist-to-hip ratio. Even if you don't have a massive hip-to-waist clearance, the diagonal lines created by the leg openings trick the eye into seeing more of a curve than might actually be there.
But it’s not all about the "baddie" aesthetic. High-fashion brands like Matteau and Eres use the high-cut leg to create a minimalist, architectural look. In these cases, it’s less about "sexy" and more about "sleek." It looks like a piece of modern art. It’s sophisticated.
Practical Challenges (The Stuff No One Tells You)
Okay, let's talk about the elephant in the room: grooming.
When you opt for a high cut one piece swimsuit, your "maintenance" routine has to change. There’s no way around it. Since the fabric sits higher on the pelvic bone, the bikini line is much more exposed than it is in a standard bikini. This is why the rise of these suits has directly correlated with a massive spike in laser hair removal and specialized skincare for the "bikini zone."
If you aren't into hair removal, that's totally fine, but you should be aware that the fabric will move. Unlike a pair of shorts, a high-cut suit has a smaller "gusset" (the crotch area). If you are active—playing beach volleyball or chasing a toddler—you might find yourself feeling a bit exposed.
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Then there's the tanning situation. You’re going to get tan lines in places you didn't know could tan. If you switch back to a lower-cut suit the next day, you’ll have these pale triangles on your hips. It’s a commitment.
How to Style It Beyond the Sand
One of the best things about a one-piece is that it doubles as a bodysuit. Because the high-cut leg eliminates the "panty line" problem you get with lower-cut suits, they look incredible under high-waisted denim or linen trousers.
- The "Model Off Duty" look: Pair a black high-cut one piece with oversized vintage Levi's and a button-down shirt left open.
- The "Poolside Glam": Add a sheer sarong tied at the waist. The high-cut leg will peek through the slit of the sarong, elongating your legs even further.
- The "Sporty" vibe: Throw on some nylon track shorts. The high hip of the swimsuit will show slightly above the waistband of the shorts, which is a very specific, cool 90s aesthetic.
Why Quality Matters More Than Ever
Seriously, don't skimp on the budget here. A low-quality high cut one piece swimsuit is a recipe for a wardrobe malfunction. Cheap elastic loses its "memory" when it gets wet. This means the leg opening that started on your hip will slowly slide down or, worse, lose its grip and start gaping.
Look for "zigzag" stitching around the leg openings. This is a sign of a well-made suit because it allows the elastic to stretch with your body without snapping the threads. Brands like Bond-eye, Left On Friday, and even some of the higher-end Aerie collections use these techniques.
Actionable Tips for Your First Purchase
If you're ready to try this trend but feel a little shy, start with a dark, solid color. Black or deep olive green are forgiving and classic. Avoid "high-shine" fabrics for your first go, as they catch the light and highlight every bump—which is fine if you're into that, but matte is usually a safer "entry-level" choice.
Check the "torso length" if you are over 5'7". Many high-cut suits are cut for average heights. If you have a long torso, the suit will pull downward, making the "high cut" look even more extreme and potentially uncomfortable in the crotch. Look for brands that offer "Long" or "Tall" sizes.
- Size up: If you are between sizes, always go up in a high-cut one piece. You want the fabric to sit on your skin, not dig into it.
- The "Sit Test": When you try it on, sit down. If the leg openings gape or the fabric bunches awkwardly in the front, it’s the wrong size or the wrong torso length for you.
- Adjust the straps: Sometimes shortening the shoulder straps can help "lift" the leg line to where it’s supposed to be.
The high cut one piece swimsuit isn't a passing fad; it's a return to a silhouette that understands the human form. It celebrates the hip, lengthens the leg, and offers a level of chic that a string bikini just can't match.
Your Next Steps
- Measure your torso: Use a soft measuring tape to go from your shoulder, through your legs, and back up to the same shoulder. This "loop" measurement is the most important factor for a one-piece fit.
- Identify your "hip height": Decide if you want a "moderate" high cut (sits just at the hip bone) or an "extreme" high cut (sits above the iliac crest).
- Check the lining: Ensure any suit you buy is fully lined to avoid transparency when wet, especially with lighter colors.
- Test the movement: Once you get your suit, do a few squats in front of the mirror. If it stays put, you've found a winner.