Honestly, if you've ever flown into Crete during the height of summer, you know the vibe. You step off the plane at Heraklion International Airport Nikos Kazantzakis (HER), and the heat hits you like a physical wall. Then, you see the crowds. It's a lot. People call it "Heathrow with sunbeds" for a reason.
This place is a paradox. It’s the second busiest airport in Greece, named after the guy who wrote Zorba the Greek, yet it often feels like it's held together by duct tape and Cretan stubbornness. But here's the thing: despite the long lines at passport control and the slightly chaotic baggage claim, this airport is the lifeblood of the island. It’s currently handling over 10 million passengers a year, which is frankly insane for a facility built on infrastructure that dates back to the late 1930s.
The Reality of Flying into HER Right Now
If you're planning a trip in 2026, you need to know about the "annual ritual." Every January, the main runway (09-27) usually shuts down for maintenance. In fact, from January 19 to January 26, 2026, the airport is operating on a modified schedule.
Basically, they’re limited to smaller planes—turboprops like the ATRs used by Sky Express or Olympic—and only during daylight hours. Why? Because the pavement literally screams "enough" after a summer of 400 flights a day. If you’re booked on a big international jet during this window, you’re likely being diverted to Chania (CHQ) or having your flight rescheduled. It's a mess, but it’s a necessary mess to keep the place safe until the new airport at Kastelli finally opens.
Why It’s Named After Nikos Kazantzakis
Most travelers just see the name on their boarding pass and move on. But Nikos Kazantzakis is a big deal. He’s arguably Greece’s most famous modern writer. His tomb is actually in Heraklion, on the Martinengo Bastion, and his epitaph is legendary: "I hope for nothing. I fear nothing. I am free." It’s a bit ironic to think about being "free" while you’re stuck in a 40-minute security line, but hey, that’s travel. The airport was named in his honor back in the day to celebrate Cretan intellectual heritage, moving away from its original military roots.
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Survival Tips: Terminal Navigation and Amenities
The terminal is... cozy. That’s the polite way to say it’s crowded.
You’ve got a few lounges if you want to escape the madness. The Filoxenia Lounge and the Goldair Handling Lounge are your best bets. If you have Priority Pass, use it. Honestly, it's the only way to find a comfortable chair and a decent cup of coffee during the July rush.
- Fast Lane is worth it: If you're flying Sky Express or just want to pay the ~€12-€16 fee, the Fast Lane at security saves lives. Or at least saves your sanity.
- Food Options: Don't expect a Michelin-star meal. It’s mostly overpriced sandwiches and spanakopita. If you have time, eat in Nea Alikarnassos (the town right outside) before you check in.
- WiFi: It exists. It’s free. It’s sometimes fast enough to post a reel, sometimes not. Don't rely on it for a Zoom call.
Transportation: Don't Get Scammed
Getting to the city center is actually pretty easy because the airport is only about 5km away. You have three real choices:
- The Blue Bus (KTEL): This is the budget king. It costs about €2.00 to €3.00 and drops you right in the heart of Heraklion. The stop is just outside the arrivals hall. Look for the red signs.
- Taxis: There’s a queue right outside. A ride to the center should cost you roughly €20 to €25. If they try to charge you €50, they're taking you for a ride in more ways than one. Always check if the meter is on or agree on the price first.
- Car Rentals: Most major desks (Hertz, Avis, Sixt) are in the arrivals area, but the actual cars are often parked a short walk or shuttle ride away. Pro tip: Book way in advance for 2026. Crete is seeing record tourism, and cars sell out.
The Big Elephant in the Room: Kastelli Airport
Everyone is asking: "When is Heraklion Airport closing?" The short answer? Not yet.
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The new Heraklion International Airport at Kastelli is currently under construction about 35km southeast of the city. As of early 2026, construction is roughly 65-70% complete. They’ve finished the main structure of the 7-level terminal and the massive 3,200-meter runway.
However, they hit some delays because of a major archaeological discovery in 2024—a massive circular Minoan structure on the hill where the radar was supposed to go. Typical Crete, right? You try to build a runway and find a 4,000-year-old palace.
Current estimates suggest first test flights in 2027, with full commercial operations starting in late 2027 or early 2028. Until then, Nikos Kazantzakis is the only game in town. When the switch happens, the old airport land will be turned into a massive urban park and regeneration project. It’ll be the end of an era.
Is it Really That Bad?
People love to complain about HER. They talk about the "chaos" and the "outdated" bathrooms. And yeah, it’s not Changi or Doha. But there’s something kind of charming about it. It’s a small-scale airport doing large-scale work.
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The staff are surprisingly efficient given the volume they handle. On a peak day, they manage a takeoff or landing every two minutes. That takes serious skill. Plus, the view on approach—flying over the turquoise waters of the Aegean and seeing the Venetian walls of Heraklion—is one of the best in Europe.
Actionable Advice for Your 2026 Trip
If you want to navigate Heraklion International Airport Nikos Kazantzakis like a local, do these three things:
- Check the Runway Status: If you are traveling in January or February, verify your flight isn't diverted. The second runway can only handle smaller planes, so big carriers like EasyJet or Lufthansa might change their schedules.
- Download the KTEL App: If you’re taking the bus, the "CreteBus" or local KTEL apps give you real-time updates so you aren't standing in the sun for 30 minutes.
- Arrive 3 Hours Early: Seriously. In the summer, the check-in lines for charter flights can wrap around the building. Don't risk it.
The airport is a bottleneck, but it’s the gateway to the Minoan ruins of Knossos, the beaches of Matala, and the mountains of Psiloritis. Just take a deep breath, buy a cold Mythos at the gate, and remember that you're in Crete. The chaos is part of the experience.
Ensure you have your transfer pre-booked if you are staying in Hersonissos or Malia, as the taxi lines during the 2026 peak season are expected to exceed 45-minute wait times during midday arrivals. Check the official Greek Civil Aviation Authority NOTAMs for any late-breaking updates on runway availability before you head to the airport.