Chickens are sitting ducks. Honestly, if you’ve spent any time watching a Red-tailed Hawk circle your backyard, you know that pit-in-your-stomach feeling. It isn't just a nuisance; it's a constant threat that can wipe out a beloved flock in a matter of seconds. Most people head to the local big-box hardware store, grab a roll of flimsy plastic bird mesh, and think they’ve solved the problem. They haven't. That thin green stuff is basically a spiderweb to a raptor. Real hawk netting for chicken run protection requires an understanding of tension, mesh size, and the sheer brutality of a hungry predator.
The Cooper’s Hawk is a specialist. It doesn't just dive; it maneuvers through branches and tight spaces with terrifying agility. If your netting has a gap the size of a fist, a Cooper’s Hawk will find it. I’ve seen it happen. People assume hawks only strike from a high-altitude dive, but many species prefer a low-level ambush. They’ll perch on a fence post, wait for you to go inside for a cup of coffee, and then drop like a stone.
The Deadly Mistake of "Fruit Tree" Netting
Stop using that lightweight polypropylene mesh designed for keeping robins off your blueberries. It's garbage. In the world of poultry DIY, this is the most common point of failure. Why? Because it lacks "break strength."
A mature female Red-tailed Hawk can weigh over three pounds and hit a target at high speeds. When that bird hits a flimsy net, the net snaps, or worse, the bird gets tangled and dies a slow, agonizing death—which, besides being cruel, is a federal crime under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918. You don’t want a dead hawk hanging from your run any more than you want a dead chicken.
You need heavy-duty knotted polyethylene. Specifically, look for something with a "break strength" of at least 45 to 60 pounds. Professional-grade hawk netting for chicken run setups usually utilizes 1-inch to 2-inch mesh. If the holes are 4 inches or larger, small hawks and owls can actually fold their wings and tuck right through the gaps. It sounds impossible until you see it.
Material Science: HDPE vs. Nylon
Don't buy nylon. Just don't.
Nylon absorbs water. When it gets wet, it sags. When it sags, it loses its structural integrity. Then comes the winter. If you live somewhere with snow, a wet nylon net will collect ice, get heavy, and collapse your entire run frame. It’s a mess.
High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) is the gold standard. It’s UV-stabilized, meaning the sun won’t turn it brittle and crumbly after one summer in the backyard. Most commercial poultry farms and zoos use knotted HDPE because it doesn't stretch and it handles the elements like a champ.
Installation Secrets the Pros Use
If your net is floppy, it’s useless. A sagging net allows predators to push the mesh down until they can reach the birds underneath. You want that net drum-tight.
Start with a perimeter cable. Instead of stapling the netting directly to your wooden posts, run a galvanized steel aircraft cable around the top edge of your run. Use turnbuckles to get that cable as tight as a guitar string. Once your "skeleton" is in place, you can lace the hawk netting for chicken run protection to the cable using zip ties or, better yet, hog rings.
- Pro Tip: Use black zip ties. The "natural" or white ones aren't UV-rated and will snap in three months.
- Support Poles: If your run is wider than 10 feet, you’ll need a center pole. Put a tennis ball or a dedicated "mushroom cap" on top of the pole so it doesn't poke a hole through the mesh.
- Overlap: If you have to seam two pieces of netting together, overlap them by at least six inches and "sew" them with twine. Gaps are invitations.
Understanding the "Goshawk Factor"
The Northern Goshawk is a different beast entirely. While rare in suburban settings, they are becoming more common as habitats shift. These birds are persistent. Unlike a hawk that might give up after one failed pass, a Goshawk will literally land on the ground and try to walk into your run.
This is why your netting needs to be secured all the way to the ground or the top of your hardware cloth. If there is a "soft spot" where the roof netting meets the side wire, a predator will find it. I’ve heard stories of hawks literally "zipping" themselves through loose seams. It's not just about the top-down view; it's about sealing the envelope.
Why 2-Inch Mesh is the "Sweet Spot"
You might be tempted to go with 1/2-inch mesh to keep out every single wild bird. Resist that urge if you live in a snowy climate. Small mesh catches snow. A 2-inch mesh allows most snowflakes to pass through, preventing the dreaded "ice roof" that can snap 4x4 pressure-treated posts like toothpicks.
However, if you have a massive problem with sparrows stealing feed and spreading mites, you might have to risk the smaller mesh and just be diligent about knocking snow off with a broom. It’s a trade-off. Most experts agree that for pure hawk netting for chicken run security, the 2-inch knotted variety provides the best balance of visibility, weight, and protection.
The visibility factor is actually a benefit. You want the hawk to see the net. The goal is deterrence, not capture. When a raptor sees that black grid from 100 feet up, it usually won't even attempt the dive. It looks for an easier target—like the neighbor's "free-range" flock.
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Maintenance: The "Once a Month" Rule
Netting isn't a "set it and forget it" solution. Trees grow. Branches fall. Squirrels chew.
Every month, walk the perimeter. Look for "chatter"—places where the net is rubbing against a sharp wooden edge. Over time, friction will win. If you see a fray, patch it immediately with a bit of leftover netting or heavy-duty twine. Honestly, a simple carabiner can be a great temporary patch for a small tear until you can get out there with the proper tools.
Also, check your tension. Turnbuckles loosen over time. If the net is starting to look like a hammock, give those turnbuckles a few twists. A tight net is a safe net.
Real-World Cost Analysis
Let's talk money. You can buy 500 square feet of "bird mesh" for $25. It will last one season. You'll lose three hens at $30 each (plus the cost of raising them). Total loss: $115.
Or, you can buy 500 square feet of heavy-duty knotted HDPE hawk netting for chicken run use for about $80 to $120. It will last 10 years.
The math isn't hard. The initial investment in high-quality materials saves you a fortune in "replacement" chickens and heartache. Plus, you don't have to spend your Saturday morning chasing a hawk out of your coop with a broom.
Actionable Next Steps for a Predator-Proof Run
- Measure twice, buy once. Calculate the total square footage of your run and add 10% for "take-up" and overlapping. It's better to have too much than to be six inches short.
- Order Knotted HDPE. Search for "low-profile poultry netting" or "heavy-duty aviary netting." Avoid anything labeled "extruded" or "plastic mesh."
- Install a Support System. Don't just drape it. Use 12.5 gauge galvanized wire or aircraft cable to create a grid that supports the weight of the net.
- Secure the Edges. Use carabiners or hog rings every 6 to 8 inches along the perimeter.
- Add a Visual Warning. If you're using very fine netting that is hard to see, tie small strips of surveyor's tape (bright orange or pink) to the mesh so the hawks—and you—don't accidentally fly or walk into it.
- Clear the Canopy. Trim any overhanging branches that could fall and tear your new investment.
Protection is about layers. Netting handles the aerial threats, hardware cloth handles the ground threats, and a solid coop handles the night threats. Get the netting right, and you'll finally be able to leave the house without worrying if your girls will still be there when you get back.