When Guy Tang first dropped his #Mydentity line, it wasn't just another hair dye release. It felt like a shift. He was the first real "celebrity colorist" to bridge the gap between those insane, filtered Instagram transformations and the actual chemistry happening at the salon chair. But here is the thing: if you have ever cracked open a book of Guy Tang color swatches, you know they don't look like your standard Matrix or Redken charts.
They are moody. They are metallic. Honestly, they can be a bit intimidating if you are used to traditional "Natural Gold" or "Ash" categories.
The swatches aren't just pretty tufts of synthetic hair to show off a Rose Gold or a Silver Smoke. They are a roadmap. But if you don't know how to read the map, you’re going to end up with a muddy mess instead of that holographic glow. Understanding the #Mydentity level system is the difference between a happy "Hairbestie" and a corrective color nightmare that takes six hours to fix.
The Secret to Reading Guy Tang Color Swatches Correctly
Most people look at a swatch and think, "I want my hair to look exactly like that."
It doesn't work that way.
Guy Tang designed these swatches to be viewed against specific underlying pigments. If you're looking at the Silver Pearl or Dusty Lavender swatches, you have to realize those are shown on a "Level 10" canvas. That is basically the color of the inside of a banana peel. If you apply that shade to hair that still has orange or yellow-orange tones (Level 7 or 8), that swatch in your hand becomes a lie. It won't look like the swatch; it'll look like nothing, or worse, a weird murky beige.
The swatch book actually starts with "Natural Ice" (NI) swatches. These are your anchors. Guy often tells stylists to use these first to determine the client’s actual starting point. You hold the NI swatch against the regrowth. You aren't looking for the "vibe" or the warmth; you're looking for the depth.
Why the Pre-Blended Tones Matter
One thing that makes these swatches unique is that Guy pre-blends the "background" color. In many traditional lines, you have to mix your own "N" (Natural) series into your fashion shades to get coverage. Guy basically said, "I’ll do it for you."
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- Shadow Ash: These swatches have a smoky, charcoal base.
- Naked Glow: This series is a beige-on-beige dream that mimics natural sun-kissed hair.
- Wicked Shadow: This is where things get dark and mysterious with deep, cool tones.
Because these are pre-blended, the swatch is a more accurate representation of the final result than a pure pigment swatch from a different brand would be. You aren't just seeing the "reflection"; you're seeing the "base" too.
Permanent vs. Demi-Permanent: The Swatch Trap
You might see two swatches that look nearly identical in the book—let's say Rose Gold 10RG. One is Permanent, and one is Demi-Permanent.
Don't be fooled.
The Permanent Color Crème swatches represent a formula that uses VibraRiche™ technology. This is designed to give twice the shine, sure, but more importantly, the Permanent line can lift natural hair. The Demi-Permanent swatches, on the other hand, represent a "deposit-only" result.
If you’re working on a client with a lot of gray, you’re looking at the Permanent swatches. They are formulated to cover those stubborn white hairs. But if you’re just toning a blonde, you should be looking at the Demi or the X-PRESS Toner swatches. The X-PRESS Toners are a whole different beast—they process in five minutes. If you leave them on for ten, they’ll go darker than the swatch. Time is literally a variable in how the color matches the book.
The New Reflect Liquid Demi Series
Recently, the line expanded into the Reflect Liquid Demi-Permanent range. These 15 shades, like the 7NG (Neutral Gold) or 7V (Violet), process in about 15 minutes. The swatches for these are incredibly iridescent. When you see a "7V" swatch, it’s not meant to make the hair look purple. It's meant to neutralize the gold in brown hair to create a perfect, shimmering iridescent brown.
How to Do a Proper Consultation Using the Swatch Book
Stop letting the client hold the book.
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Seriously.
When a client holds the #Mydentity swatch book, they gravitate toward the "Super Power" direct dyes or the "Silver Smoke." They see the bright, vibrant tuft of hair and assume it's a one-step process.
Instead, use the Natural Underlying Pigment (NUP) Chart that is usually included in the Guy Tang education manuals. Show the client the "raw" color their hair will be after bleaching (the scary oranges and yellows) and then place the desired swatch next to it.
- Identify the Canvas: Use the Natural Ice swatches to find the starting level.
- Pick the Goal: Find the fashion swatch the client likes.
- Explain the Gap: If they want Silver Pearl (Level 10) but they are a Natural Level 4, explain that they have to pass through six levels of underlying pigment first.
The swatch book is a tool for education, not a menu at a restaurant.
Heat Protection and Chemistry Behind the Swatches
It is worth noting that what you see in the swatch is protected by some pretty heavy-duty science. Guy Tang included Miru-Style X-HP™ in the formulas. This provides heat protection up to 450°F.
Why does this matter for the color result?
Heat is the #1 enemy of cool-toned hair color. If you spend three hours achieving that perfect "Titanium" or "Lavender" shade you saw in the swatches, and then the client goes home and cranks their flat iron to the max, that color is going to oxidize and turn yellow in a week. The technology in the tube helps the hair hold onto that "swatch-perfect" tone for longer, but it's not magic.
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The Super Power Direct Dyes are even more intense. They are formulated to last up to 30 shampoos. When you look at the swatch for Blue Mystique or Magenta Magic, you are seeing a pigment density that is way higher than "drugstore" semi-permanents. These don't require a developer, so the swatch is basically a "what you see is what you get" situation—provided the hair is pre-lightened to the correct level.
Actionable Steps for Stylists and Enthusiasts
If you are trying to master the Guy Tang universe, don't just buy one tube and hope for the best.
Start by investing in the actual physical swatch book rather than relying on digital PDF charts. Phone screens and laptop monitors have different calibrations; a "Rose Gold" on an iPhone 15 looks very different than it does on a MacBook or a printed piece of paper. The physical synthetic hair in the book is the only way to see how the light actually hits the "Metallic" series.
Secondly, practice "swatching" on real hair extensions or "mannequin" hair before hitting a client’s head. Take a Level 8 blonde extension and apply a Level 10 swatch formula. See how it shifts. This "hands-on" swatching will teach you more about the #Mydentity line than any YouTube video ever could.
Lastly, always remember the 1:1 mixing ratio for the Permanent and Reflect lines, but keep an eye on the 1:2 ratio for some Demi-Permanent applications where you want more translucency. The way you mix your developer can actually change how closely your result matches the swatch you chose.
The Guy Tang system is built for "Hairbesties" who want to push boundaries. It’s for the people who aren't afraid of a little "Dark Shadows" at the root or a "Pink Sky Dream" on the ends. Respect the level system, understand your canvas, and those swatches will finally start behaving the way you want them to.