Walk into the Green Mill Cocktail Lounge at Lawrence and Broadway in Uptown Chicago, and you’ll feel it. That thick, heavy air. It’s not just the smell of gin and old wood; it’s the weight of a century of history. If you're looking for an Al Capone bar in Chicago, this is the holy grail. Honestly, most "mob themed" spots in the city are just tourist traps with plastic tommy guns on the walls, but the Mill is different. It's real.
Al Capone didn't just drink here. He owned a piece of it.
Back in the 1920s, this wasn't just a place to grab a cocktail. It was a headquarters. The Green Mill was strategically located far enough away from the prying eyes of downtown's Loop, but close enough to the Lake Shore Drive getaway routes. It’s legendary. It’s gritty. And if those walls could talk, they’d probably tell you to shut up and mind your own business.
The Booth Where Big Al Sat
If you want the true Al Capone experience, you have to look for the booth. It’s tucked away behind the end of the bar, positioned specifically so Capone could see both the front and back entrances at the same time. He was paranoid. Rightfully so. Sitting there today feels kinda eerie. You can imagine him sipping a Templeton Rye—his preferred whiskey—while his henchmen, usually led by "Machine Gun" Jack McGurn, stood watch.
McGurn actually owned a 25% stake in the place. He wasn't just a regular; he was the muscle that kept the booze flowing when the rest of the country was dry.
There's a trap door behind the bar. It’s not a myth. That door leads to a complex network of tunnels that originally connected to the neighboring buildings and the street. When the feds decided to pull a surprise raid, Capone and his associates would literally vanish into the floorboards. Most people think these tunnels are just folklore, but they’ve been documented by historians and urban explorers for decades. They are the physical remnants of a city that was built on "black market" logistics.
Not Just a Mob Hangout: The Jazz Legacy
While the Al Capone connection is the big draw, the Green Mill wasn't just a clubhouse for the Outfit. It was, and still is, one of the most important jazz hubs in the world. Originally called "Pop Morse’s Roadhouse," it became the Green Mill Gardens in 1910, named after the Moulin Rouge (Green Windmill) in Paris.
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It was fancy.
Think formal wear, massive dance floors, and outdoor gardens. But when Prohibition hit in 1920, the vibe shifted. The jazz got hotter, the patrons got more dangerous, and the booze became the primary revenue stream. This is where the "Chicago Sound" really began to simmer. You had musicians who were literally playing for their lives, or at least for the amusement of the most dangerous men in America.
The decor hasn't changed much since those days. The ornate woodwork, the dim lighting, and the "Diana of the Dunes" statue behind the bar are all original. It’s one of the few places in Chicago where you don't have to use your imagination to see the 1930s; you're literally standing in them.
The Brutal Reality of the Uptown Mob Scene
We tend to romanticize the era. We see the fedoras and the sleek cars and think it was all very glamorous. It wasn't. The Green Mill was the site of some pretty dark history.
Take the case of Joe E. Lewis.
He was a popular singer and comedian at the Mill in the late 20s. When his contract was up, he decided to take a better-paying gig at the Rendezvous Cafe. Jack McGurn told him not to leave. Lewis left anyway. A few mornings later, three of McGurn’s men broke into Lewis’s hotel room at the Commonwealth Hotel. They beat him, cut his throat, and sliced off a portion of his tongue.
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He survived, miraculously. He even learned to speak and perform again, but he was never the same. That was the reality of the Al Capone bar scene. It was a world where "business disputes" were settled with straight razors. When you're sitting in that booth, it’s worth remembering that the history here is written in blood as much as it is in jazz notes.
Why the Green Mill Survived When Others Vanished
Chicago used to be full of places like this. The Lexington Hotel, the Colosimo’s Cafe, the Hawthorn Inn—most of them are parking lots or Starbucks now. So why did the Green Mill survive?
- Location: Uptown stayed a vibrant entertainment district for a long time, even as other neighborhoods fluctuated.
- Ownership: Dave Jemilo bought the place in 1986 and made a conscious effort to restore its 1930s glory rather than "modernizing" it. He saved the soul of the bar.
- The Music: By staying a world-class jazz venue, it attracted people who cared about the culture, not just the Al Capone kitsch.
The bar actually fell on hard times in the 70s. It became a bit of a dive, a place for "serious drinkers" who didn't care about the history. But the bones were still there. The Art Deco touches, the curved bar, the atmosphere that you just can't manufacture in a modern build-out.
Spotting Other Capone Hangouts in the City
While the Green Mill is the most intact, it isn't the only ghost of the Outfit left in Chicago. If you're doing a DIY Al Capone tour, you've gotta hit these spots to get the full picture:
- The Biograph Theater: Just down the street in Lincoln Park. This is where John Dillinger (who occasionally crossed paths with the Chicago Outfit) was gunned down.
- The Site of the St. Valentine’s Day Massacre: It’s just a fenced-off grassy lot now on North Clark Street, but the energy is heavy. Capone’s men dressed as cops and wiped out the Bugs Moran gang here.
- Exchequer Restaurant & Pub: Formerly known as the "226 Club," this was another Capone haunt. Legend says he used the upstairs as a brothel and the basement for booze storage.
- Victory Gardens Biograph Theater: You can still see the alleyway where the "Lady in Red" betrayed Dillinger.
Most of these places have little plaques or "tourist info," but they lack the lived-in grit of the Green Mill. At the Mill, you’re not looking at a museum exhibit. You’re using the same bathroom Al used. You’re leaning on the same mahogany.
What Most People Get Wrong About Al Capone's Chicago
Social media and movies make it look like Capone was everywhere, all the time. Honestly, he was a businessman who spent a lot of time in Florida or in jail. But the influence of his organization was everywhere. The "Al Capone bar" wasn't just a place where he sat; it was a node in a massive distribution network.
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The Green Mill was a "protected" house. That meant the local police were paid off, the booze was supplied by the Outfit, and the entertainment was vetted. If you were a bartender there in 1928, you weren't just pouring drinks; you were a cog in a multi-million dollar illegal empire.
Another misconception: the "Secret Tunnels."
People think they were miles long. They weren't. They were usually just short passages to the basement of the building next door or to a hidden coal chute. They were for quick escapes, not cross-city travel. But that doesn't make them any less cool.
How to Visit the Green Mill Today
If you’re going, don't be a "tourist." Don't walk in and immediately ask where Capone sat. Get a drink first. Listen to the music. The Green Mill is a serious jazz club. They have a strict "no talking during the set" policy for many performances. It's respectful. It’s the way it should be.
The bar is cash only. This feels right. It's a throwback to a time before digital footprints. There’s an ATM in the back, but come prepared.
If you want the best seat in the house—the Capone booth—you need to get there early. It’s popular. But even if you’re standing at the bar, you’re in the thick of it. The sound quality in the room is incredible, thanks to the original plasterwork and the way the room is shaped.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit:
- Timing: Go on a Sunday night for the Uptown Poetry Slam. It’s been running since the 80s and is the longest-running poetry slam in the country. It’s loud, it’s raw, and it captures the Chicago spirit perfectly.
- The Drink: Order a classic. A Manhattan or an Old Fashioned. This isn't the place for a "frozen margarita."
- Transportation: Don't try to park in Uptown. It’s a nightmare. Take the "L" (the Red Line) to the Lawrence stop. The bar is literally right there.
- Safety: Uptown is a diverse, bustling neighborhood, but like any city area, stay aware of your surroundings, especially late at night.
The Green Mill isn't a theme park. It’s a survivor. In a city that loves to tear down its history and build glass condos, the fact that this bar still exists—with the same booth, the same trap door, and the same soul—is a miracle. It’s the closest you can get to 1927 without a time machine. Just remember: if you sit in Al's booth, keep your eyes on the door. You never know who might walk in.