Most people driving through the rolling fields of North Essex see the signs for Great Dunmow and think one of two things: it’s either the place near Stansted Airport or that town with the weird bacon competition.
They aren't wrong. But they're definitely missing the point.
Honestly, Great Dunmow is one of those rare spots in the United Kingdom that has managed to dodge the "cloned high street" syndrome that killed the soul of so many other English market towns. It sits on a Roman road, the Stane Street, and you can still feel that ancient layout when you're trying to find a parking spot near the Doctor’s Pond. It’s a mix of timber-framed Tudor houses that look like they’re leaning on each other for support and the kind of modern grit you expect from a town that’s seen everything from the Black Death to the expansion of a global aviation hub just down the road.
The Flitch Trials: Not Just a Local Legend
If you want to understand Great Dunmow, you have to talk about the Flitch. It’s basically the weirdest marital test in the world. Dating back to at least 1104—and famously mentioned in Chaucer’s The Canterbury Tales—the trials involve couples trying to prove to a jury of six bachelors and six maidens that they haven't regretted their marriage for a year and a day.
If they win? They get a flitch of bacon.
A "flitch" is just a side of bacon, by the way. It sounds silly, but people take it incredibly seriously. The trials only happen every leap year, so the town turns into a bit of a circus. The winners are carried through the streets in a special wooden chair that you can actually go see in the local church, St Mary’s. It’s a massive, heavy piece of furniture that dates back to the 15th century. Imagine being hoisted up in that after a heavy lunch.
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Living the North Essex Life
Walking down the High Street, you notice the lack of massive chain stores. It’s a breath of fresh air. You’ve got local butchers, independent boutiques, and more pubs than you’d expect for a population of roughly 10,000 people.
The Saracen’s Head is the big one. It’s a classic coaching inn. Back in the day, this was a vital stop for people traveling between London and East Anglia. Even today, it feels like the town’s living room. You’ll see farmers in muddy boots sitting a few tables away from pilots in crisp uniforms who just landed at Stansted. That’s the Great Dunmow vibe. It’s a collision of rural tradition and international transit.
The geography is a bit of a double-edged sword. You're right on the A120. That means you can be at the airport in ten minutes or in London in an hour. But it also means the town is under constant pressure to grow. New housing estates are creeping out into the sugar beet fields, and locals are understandably protective of the "Ancient Flitch Town" identity.
Hidden Gems and the Doctor’s Pond
The Doctor’s Pond is arguably the most scenic part of the town center. It’s named after Dr. Thomas Fuller, who lived nearby in the 18th century. It’s a great spot to just sit and watch the ducks, but it also has a strange claim to fame. This pond was used by lifeboat inventor Lionel Lukin to test his "unsubmersible" boat designs in the 1780s.
Think about that.
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One of the most important maritime safety inventions in history started its life in a small pond in the middle of a landlocked Essex town. It’s those kinds of layers that make the place interesting. You aren't just looking at a pretty view; you're looking at a piece of industrial history.
The Parish Church of St Mary the Virgin
You have to walk a little way out of the main center to get to the church. It’s worth the legwork. It’s a massive, Grade I listed building that looks far too big for a town of this size. That’s "wool money" for you. During the medieval period, the cloth trade made this part of Essex incredibly wealthy.
The architecture is mostly Perpendicular Gothic. If you head inside, look for the "Dunmow Chair" I mentioned earlier. Even if you aren't religious, the craftsmanship in the roof timbers is staggering. It’s a quiet, cold, beautiful space that makes you realize how long people have been thriving in this specific patch of dirt.
Why the Commuter Label is a Trap
People call Great Dunmow a "commuter town" like it’s a bad thing. Sure, a lot of people sleep here and work elsewhere. But the community spirit is surprisingly thick. There’s a carnival every September that pulls in thousands of people. There's a real sense of "us" versus "them" when it comes to preserving the local green belt.
Is it perfect? No.
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The traffic on the High Street can be a nightmare during school runs. The lack of a direct train station (you have to go to Bishop's Stortford or Braintree) is a genuine pain for some. But those barriers are exactly what have kept the town from turning into a generic suburb. It still feels like a distinct place with its own rules and its own history.
Practical Advice for Your Visit
If you’re planning a trip to Great Dunmow, don't just use it as a base for the airport. Give it a full day.
- Parking: Avoid the High Street if you can. Use the Chequers Lane car park or the one by the White Street. It’s cheaper and saves you the stress of parallel parking while a bus breathes down your neck.
- Eating: For a proper Sunday roast, head to The Angel and Harp. If you want something quicker, the local bakeries are top-tier.
- Walking: Take the Flitch Way. It’s a decommissioned railway line that’s been turned into a 15-mile path for walkers and cyclists. It runs right past the town and offers some of the best views of the Chelmer Valley.
- Timing: If it’s a leap year, check the dates for the Flitch Trials months in advance. Tickets sell out because the "courtroom" is usually a giant marquee and capacity is limited.
The Reality of Local Business
Business in the town is shifting. You see fewer traditional "hardware" stores and more lifestyle cafes. That’s just the reality of 2026. However, the Great Dunmow Town Council and the local Chamber of Trade are pretty aggressive about supporting independent shops. It’s why you can still find a shop that specializes in nothing but yarn or a traditional clock repairer.
The Maltings is another spot to check out. It’s a museum now, but it used to be central to the town's brewing and malting industry. It gives you a perspective on how the town functioned before everyone started flying planes or working in London. It was a town built on grain and grit.
Final Actionable Insights for the Traveler or Resident
If you’re moving to the area or just visiting, here’s how to actually experience the town properly:
- Walk the Flitch Way towards Rayne. It’s the best way to see the transition from the town’s edge into the deep Essex countryside. The old station at Rayne has a great cafe for a midpoint break.
- Visit the Great Dunmow Museum. It’s small, run by volunteers, and houses the actual history that Wikipedia misses. They have artifacts from the Roman occupation that were dug up right in the town center.
- Check the local market. It’s usually on a Tuesday. It isn't the sprawling chaos of a London market, but it’s where you get the best local produce and a real sense of the local dialect.
- Explore the "Old North": Walk up towards North Street and West Street to see the oldest houses. Some of these date back to the 14th century and have the classic Essex pink lime wash.
Great Dunmow isn't a museum piece. It’s a working, breathing town that just happens to have a lot of history sticking out of the ground. Whether you’re here for the bacon trials or just a quiet pint by the pond, respect the pace of the place. It’s been here since the Romans, and it isn't in a rush to change for anyone.