You’ve probably driven past Holy Hill a dozen times, staring at those neo-Romanesque spires reaching out of the Kettle Moraine forest. It’s iconic. But honestly, most people make a huge mistake by stopping there and heading home. Just a few minutes down the road sits Glacier Hills County Park, and if you’re actually looking for the "nature" part of Washington County, this is where it’s hiding. It isn't just a patch of grass with some swings. It is 163 acres of some of the most aggressive glacial topography in the Midwest.
You feel it in your calves.
The terrain here wasn't designed by a landscape architect; it was carved by a massive sheet of ice roughly 10,000 years ago. When the glacier stalled and melted, it dropped piles of debris called kames and left behind deep depressions known as kettles. This isn't flat Wisconsin farmland. It’s a jagged, rolling, and occasionally punishing landscape that makes you realize just how much power that ice held.
The Friess Lake Connection
Most locals know the park because of the water. Friess Lake sits right there, offering about 1,200 feet of shoreline within the park boundaries. But here is the thing: it’s not a swimming beach. If you show up in trunks expecting a sandy shore, you’ll be disappointed. It’s marshy. It’s raw. It’s perfect for a kayak or a rowboat, though.
If you get out on the water early, specifically near the northern reeds, the silence is heavy. You’ll see Great Blue Herons standing like statues. They don’t care about you. They’re focused on the fish. The park provides a boat launch, but it's really catered toward the quiet crowd—people who want to see the reflection of the hardwoods on a glassy surface rather than jet ski wakes.
The Architecture You Didn't Expect
Usually, county parks have those generic, pressure-treated wood shelters. Glacier Hills County Park is different. It has soul. Back in the late 1920s and early 30s, this area was a private estate owned by the reach. You can still see that DNA in the stone architecture.
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The Hall is the centerpiece.
Built with fieldstone gathered right from the surrounding hills, it looks like something out of a European village. It has these massive timber beams and a fireplace that could probably fit a small car. It’s a popular spot for weddings, and for good reason. It feels permanent. It feels like it belongs to the land. Nearby, the old caretaker’s residence and the formal gardens (or what’s left of their spirit) give the place a "Great Gatsby in the Woods" vibe that you just don't get at a standard state park.
Those Famous "Steep" Trails
Let's talk about the hiking. If you’re used to paved paths, stay in the picnic area. The trails here are rugged. The Ice Age National Scenic Trail actually cuts through a portion of the park, which tells you everything you need to know about the quality of the hiking.
- The Red Trail is the one everyone talks about. It loops through the heaviest forest cover.
- You’ll hit elevation changes that feel out of place for southern Wisconsin.
- There are "vistas" that, while obscured by leaves in the summer, open up in the fall to show the rolling horizon of the Kettle Moraine.
The footing can be tricky. Roots are everywhere. After a heavy rain, the kettles—those deep bowls in the earth—collect moisture and the air gets thick and earthy. It smells like moss and old wood. It’s fantastic.
Winter is Secretly the Best Season
Most people pack it up when the snow hits. That is a mistake. Glacier Hills County Park transforms into a legitimate winter playground, but without the crowds of a ski resort. The hills that make hiking difficult in July make sledding legendary in January.
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There is a dedicated lighted sledding hill. It’s fast. Maybe a little too fast if the snow is packed into ice, but that’s half the fun. They also have a heated stone warming house. There is something fundamentally "Wisconsin" about shivering at the top of a hill, screaming your way down on a plastic disc, and then thawing out your toes by a wood-burning stove.
Cross-country skiing here isn't for the faint of heart either. Because of those glacial kames, the loops are technical. You need to know how to snowplow on the descents, or you’re going to end up in a thicket of buckthorn.
The Cabin Life
Did you know you can stay overnight? Washington County has done something really cool here by offering "Glacier Hills Cabins." These aren't roughing-it-under-a-tarp situations. They are cozy, one-room or two-room wooden structures tucked into the ridgelines.
- They have heat.
- They have electricity.
- They do NOT have plumbing (you use the nearby bathhouse).
It’s the perfect middle ground for people who hate sleeping on the ground but want to wake up to the sound of owls. Sitting on the porch of Cabin 4 at 6:00 AM with a thermos of coffee is probably the closest you’ll get to total peace within an hour of Milwaukee. You’re high up on the ridge, looking down into the fog-filled kettles. It’s eerie and beautiful.
What People Get Wrong About the "Hills"
There’s a misconception that these hills are just random bumps. They aren't. They are part of the Interlobate Moraine—the spot where two massive fingers of the last glacier pushed against each other. This created a "crush zone" of debris. When you stand on the highest point in the park, you’re standing on the remains of a geological collision.
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Geologists from all over the state come here to study the soil composition. It’s a mix of gravel, sand, and clay that shouldn't logically be piled that high, yet there it is, held together by the root systems of ancient oaks and hickories.
Practical Realities of Visiting
Don't just show up and expect everything to be open. Washington County charges a daily entrance fee or requires an annual sticker. It’s a few bucks. Honestly, it’s a bargain considering how well-maintained the vault toilets and picnic areas are.
If you're bringing a dog, keep it on a leash. The rangers are pretty strict about it, mostly because the wildlife is active. There are turkeys everywhere. Huge, dumb, beautiful turkeys that will jump out of the brush and scare the life out of you if you aren't paying attention.
Parking can get tight on October weekends because of the "Leaf Peepers" heading to Holy Hill. If you want the park to yourself, go on a Tuesday morning. The light filters through the canopy in a way that makes the whole forest look like it's glowing green.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
- Check the map first: The trail system is a bit of a spiderweb. Grab a physical map at the kiosk near the entrance because cell service can be spotty in the deep kettles.
- Pack the right shoes: Leave the flip-flops in the car. You want grip. The climbs are short but steep, and the descent to the lake can be slick.
- Bring a camera for the Hall: If you’re into photography, the stonework on the public buildings is world-class. The textures are incredible.
- Book cabins early: If you want a weekend in the fall, you need to be on the reservation website months in advance. They fill up the moment the window opens.
- Visit the "hidden" chapel: Just outside the park boundary is the tiny St. Mary of the Hill parish. It adds to the historic, quiet atmosphere of the whole Hubertus area.
Glacier Hills County Park isn't a place you visit once and "finish." It changes too much with the seasons. The forest you see in the spring, carpeted with trillium and leeks, looks nothing like the stark, skeletal landscape of December. It’s a place that demands you come back, even if it’s just to see if you can make it up that one Red Trail incline without stopping to catch your breath.