Honestly, Giverny is one of those places that looks too good to be real. You’ve seen the paintings. You know the water lilies. But when you’re standing in the middle of a crowded Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris trying to figure out which yellow machine spits out the right ticket, the romance of Impressionism fades pretty fast. How to go to Giverny from Paris is actually straightforward, but there are a few quirks with the French rail system and local shuttle timing that can genuinely ruin your morning if you aren't careful.
Most people think Giverny has its own train station. It doesn't.
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If you show up at a kiosk and type "Giverny," you'll get nothing but a blank screen and a rising sense of panic. You are actually looking for Vernon-Giverny, a small, charming station located in the town of Vernon, about 45 miles northwest of the capital. From there, you still have a bit of a trek to get to Monet’s front door.
The Train from Gare Saint-Lazare: Your Best Bet
Forget driving. Seriously. Unless you’re planning a larger road trip through Normandy, navigating Parisian traffic just to get to the A13 highway is a nightmare you don't need.
The train is the way to go. You’ll head to Gare Saint-Lazare, which is easily accessible via Metro lines 3, 12, 13, and 14. Once you’re there, look for the "Grandes Lignes" departure boards. You aren't looking for a RER commuter train here; you want the regional TER (Transport Express Régional) trains heading toward Rouen or Le Havre.
Tickets usually cost between 10€ and 16€ each way. You can buy them on the SNCF Connect app, which I highly recommend because the paper ticket machines at Saint-Lazare often have lines longer than the bakery at lunchtime. Plus, if you have a digital ticket, you don't have to worry about the "compostage"—that weird little yellow machine where you have to punch physical tickets before boarding. If you forget to punch a physical ticket, the conductor might give you a stern look or a fine. Neither is fun.
The ride is quick. About 45 to 50 minutes. You’ll watch the urban graffiti of the Paris suburbs melt into the lush, rolling greenery of the Seine Valley. It’s a vibe.
Choosing the Right Train Time
Don't just hop on any train. You want the direct ones. Some regional trains stop at every tiny village along the way, turning a 45-minute jaunt into a 90-minute crawl. Check the schedule for "Direct" or "1 stop" options. Usually, there’s a train roughly every hour, but in the peak spring and summer months, they can get packed.
If you’re a morning person, take the 8:11 AM or the 9:11 AM. Arriving early is the only way to beat the tour buses that descend on the gardens like a swarm of very polite locusts around 10:30 AM.
Getting from Vernon Station to the Gardens
So, you’ve stepped off the train in Vernon. Now what? You have three main choices, and your decision depends entirely on how much you like exercise and how much you hate waiting in line.
The Navette (Shuttle Bus)
Right outside the station, you’ll see big, colorful buses. These are specifically timed to meet the trains arriving from Paris. It costs about 10€ for a round trip. You can pay by credit card or cash right on the bus. It’s the easiest method, but it’s also what everyone else on your train is going to do. Expect a bit of a crowd.
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The Petit Train
This is a touristy, tractor-pulled "train" on wheels. It’s a bit kitschy, but kids love it, and it takes a slightly more scenic route through Vernon before heading to Giverny. It’s roughly the same price as the bus.
Walking or Biking (The Pro Move)
If the weather is nice, walk. It’s about a 3-mile (5km) walk along a paved path that used to be an old railway line. It takes about an hour. If that sounds too long, there are bike rental shops right across from the station. L'Arrivée de Giverny is a popular spot. Renting a bike for the day is roughly 15€ to 20€, and it gives you the freedom to explore the town of Vernon itself, which most people completely ignore. Vernon has a stunning old mill (Le Vieux Moulin) suspended over the river that is worth a photo op.
Managing the Claude Monet Foundation Entry
Here is a mistake people make constantly: they figure out how to go to Giverny from Paris but forget to book the actual destination.
You cannot just "wing it" with tickets for Monet’s house and gardens during the high season. The Foundation Claude Monet uses timed entry slots. If you show up at the gate without a pre-booked ticket, you might be told to come back in three hours, or worse, that the day is sold out.
Book on the official website weeks in advance.
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Once you’re inside, the flow is generally directed. You’ll see the Clos Normand (the flower garden) first, and then you’ll take the underground tunnel to the Water Garden. Yes, a tunnel. Monet actually had to fight the local council to build that tunnel and divert a branch of the river Epte to create his pond. He was a bit of a rebel in the gardening world.
The Secret to the Water Lily Pond
The Japanese Bridge is the "money shot." It’s where everyone stops to take a selfie. If you want a moment of peace, head to the far corners of the pond. Most people cluster around the bridge, but the weeping willows and the bamboo groves at the back are just as stunning and significantly quieter.
Food and Practicalities in the Village
Giverny is a tiny village. Basically one main street, the Rue Claude Monet.
Eating here can be expensive and mediocre if you aren't careful. Les Nymphéas is right across from the house and is decent for a sit-down meal, but it gets slammed. For something a bit more casual, there are small crêperies scattered around.
Actually, if you’re trying to save money, buy a baguette and some cheese in Paris or at the bakery near the Vernon station. There are lovely spots along the Seine in Vernon to have a picnic before or after your Giverny visit.
- Toilets: There are restrooms inside the Monet Foundation, but the lines are long. Use the ones at the train station or the public ones near the Giverny bus parking lot before you head into the gardens.
- The Museum of Impressionism: Don't overlook this. It's just down the street from Monet's house. It often has incredible temporary exhibitions that are far less crowded than the main house.
- Monet's Grave: He’s buried in the local churchyard at the end of the village. It’s a simple, flower-covered grave. It's a somber, beautiful contrast to the explosion of color in his gardens.
Dealing with the Crowds
Let’s be real. Giverny is popular. On a Saturday in July, it can feel more like a theme park than an artist's retreat.
If you want the best experience, go on a Tuesday or Wednesday. Avoid French holiday weekends at all costs. The gardens are open from late March through early November. Many people swear by late May for the tulips and early peonies, but late August and September bring the towering dahlias and the nasturtiums that "crawl" across the central alleyway.
The light in the afternoon, around 4:00 PM, is spectacular. Most of the tour groups start heading back to their buses by then, leaving the gardens much emptier. Just make sure you know when the last shuttle bus departs for the Vernon station so you don't miss your train back to Paris.
Navigating the Return Trip
The trains back to Paris Saint-Lazare run fairly frequently in the late afternoon. You don't necessarily need to book a specific return time if you have a flexible TER ticket, which is a huge relief if you decide you want to stay for one more glass of cider in the village.
Check the "SNCF Connect" app for live updates. Sometimes there are strikes or track work, especially on weekends. A quick glance at the app before you leave the garden can save you two hours of sitting on a station bench.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
To make this seamless, follow this specific order of operations:
- Check the weather: Giverny is 90% outdoors. If it's pouring rain, the lily pond looks more like a muddy puddle.
- Buy your Monet Foundation tickets online: Do this at least 2-3 weeks out for summer dates.
- Download the SNCF Connect app: Buy your Paris-to-Vernon train tickets the night before to avoid station kiosks.
- Target the 8:11 AM train: This gets you to Vernon by 9:00 AM, allowing you to be in the first wave of visitors when the gates open at 9:30 AM.
- Pack light: There is no luggage storage at the Monet Foundation. If you have bags, you'll have to use a locker service back in Paris.
- Walk the village: After the gardens, walk past the church to the graveyard and back. It’s the only way to feel the actual "village" atmosphere away from the gift shop crowds.
Giverny is one of the few places that actually lives up to the hype, provided you don't spend the whole day fighting the logistics. Get the train right, get your tickets early, and the rest is just flowers and light.