You’re standing on a platform at Gare Saint-Lazare, clutching a paper ticket or staring at your phone, wondering if you’re actually on the right train. It's a rite of passage. Most people think getting to Giverny France from Paris is as simple as clicking a button, but there's a specific rhythm to it that can make or break your day. Giverny isn't just a village; it’s Claude Monet’s fever dream preserved in soil and water. If you mess up the logistics, you’re stuck in a crowded shuttle or walking along a dusty road instead of staring at water lilies.
Honestly, the journey is half the fun if you do it right. You're heading northwest into Normandy. The city architecture fades into limestone cliffs and apple orchards. It’s beautiful. But let's be real: the SNCF (French National Railway) website can be a nightmare to navigate sometimes, and the "shuttle" in Vernon isn't always where you think it is.
The Train Method: The "Classic" for a Reason
Most travelers take the train. It’s fast. It’s cheap. You head to Gare Saint-Lazare. Do not go to Gare du Nord or Gare de l'Est; you'll just end up in the wrong part of the country. You are looking for the "Grandes Lignes" departures. Look for trains heading toward Rouen or Le Havre. Your stop is Vernon-Giverny.
The ride takes about 45 to 50 minutes. If you catch the express, it’s a breeze. If you catch the regional TER that stops at every single village, it’s a bit longer, but you get to see some lovely local stations. Tickets usually cost between 10 and 16 Euros depending on how far in advance you book. Pro tip: use the SNCF Connect app. It’s much better than it used to be, though it still has its quirks.
When you get to Vernon, don't panic. The station is small. Follow the painted footprints on the ground. They are literally green and white. They lead you to the shuttle bus, often called the "Navette Giverny." It costs about 10 Euros for a round trip. The bus timing is synced with the trains coming from Paris, so you usually have about 10-15 minutes to hop on. If you miss it, you're waiting or walking.
Walking or Biking from Vernon
You've got options once you hit Vernon. Some people love the walk. It's about 5 kilometers (roughly 3 miles). It’s flat. It follows the Seine. If the weather is nice, it’s arguably better than the bus. You see the "Old Mill" (Le Vieux Moulin) hanging off the bridge in Vernon, which is a local icon.
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Or, rent a bike. Directly across from the station, there’s a cafe/shop called "L'Arrivée de Giverny" that rents cruisers. It’s a 15-minute ride. You’ll feel like a local, wind in your hair, pedaling past the fields. Just watch out for the tour buses—they don't always give you much room on the narrower stretches.
Driving to Giverny: Freedom vs. Stress
Driving isn't for everyone. Paris traffic is a special kind of chaos. But if you have a rental car because you’re heading deeper into Normandy afterward—maybe to see the D-Day beaches or Mont Saint-Michel—it makes sense.
The route is basically the A13 highway. You take it toward Rouen/Caen. Exit at number 14 (Bonnières) or number 16 (Vernon). It takes about an hour and fifteen minutes, but that depends entirely on the "Périphérique" (the Paris ring road). If there’s an accident there, add 45 minutes to your life.
Parking in Giverny is actually surprisingly okay. There’s a massive dirt lot right at the entrance of the village. It’s free. From there, it’s a five-minute walk to Monet’s house. Just don't leave valuables in the car. It’s a safe area, but tourists are targets everywhere.
The Secret "Navette" Boat
Did you know you can take a boat? It’s not a direct ferry from central Paris, but several river cruise companies offer day trips that stop near Vernon. This is the luxury route. You sit on a deck, sip wine, and watch the Seine meander. Most people doing this are on a week-long cruise to Honfleur, but there are specific day-trips if you look for "Croisière Paris-Giverny." It’s expensive. It’s slow. It’s incredibly relaxing.
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Avoid the Mid-Day Rush
Here is what most people get wrong about getting to Giverny France from Paris: they arrive at 11:00 AM.
That is the absolute worst time. Every tour bus from the city arrives then. The Japanese Bridge becomes a mosh pit. You can’t see the lilies for the selfie sticks.
If you want the "Monet experience," you need to be on the 8:00 AM or 8:30 AM train from Saint-Lazare. This gets you to the gates right when they open at 9:30 AM. You’ll have about 45 minutes of relative peace before the crowds explode. Alternatively, go late. The last entry is usually around 5:30 PM, and the light in the garden during "golden hour" is exactly what Monet was trying to paint. The tour groups usually clear out by 4:00 PM to get back to Paris for dinner.
What about guided tours?
You'll see a million ads for "Skip the Line" tours. Honestly? You don't need them if you’re comfortable taking a train. Most of these tours just put you on a bus at the Palais des Congrès in Paris and drive you there. You pay a massive premium for the "comfort" of not reading a train schedule. If you hate logistics, go for it. If you want to save 80 Euros, do it yourself.
Essential Logistics for Your Visit
You need to book your house tickets online. This is not a suggestion. It is mandatory during the peak season (April to October). If you show up at the gate without a QR code, you might be standing in a line for two hours, or worse, told they’re sold out.
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The house is tiny. The hallways are narrow. It’s a nineteenth-century farmhouse, not a palace. Wear comfortable shoes. The garden paths are gravel and dirt. If it rained the night before, there will be mud. Don't be the person wearing white silk sneakers.
Dining in the Village
Once you’re there, you’ll be hungry. "Les Nymphéas" is the restaurant right across from the house. It’s fine. It’s a bit touristy, but the terrace is nice. If you want something a bit more "real," walk further into the village to "Ancien Hôtel Baudy." It’s where the American Impressionists (like Sargent and Metcalf) used to hang out. They have a rose garden in the back that is honestly just as pretty as Monet’s, and it’s usually way quieter.
Beyond the Water Lilies
Don't just see the garden and leave. The Musée des Impressionnismes Giverny is just down the street. It’s a modern building, partially underground, with incredible rotating exhibits. They focus on the legacy of impressionism.
Also, walk up to the village church, Sainte-Radegonde. Monet is buried there. It’s a simple, humble grave covered in flowers. It puts the whole "famous artist" thing into perspective. Most tourists skip this. It’s a ten-minute walk. Do it.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Check the Calendar: Giverny is closed in the winter. They usually open at the end of March and close at the beginning of November. If you go in July, it’s hot. May and June are the peak for wisteria and roses.
- Buy the Ticket First: Go to the official Maison de Monet website. Buy your time-slot ticket before you even think about the train.
- Download the SNCF Connect App: Set up your account and link your credit card so you aren't fumbling at a kiosk in Saint-Lazare while your train pulls away.
- Pack Light: There is no cloakroom or luggage storage at the gardens. If you bring a suitcase, you will be turned away at the gate for security reasons. Leave the big bags at your hotel in Paris or use a "Nannybag" service near the train station.