You used to be able to hop on the Sud Express at Lisbon’s Santa Apolónia station, settle into a sleeper cabin, and wake up essentially on the doorstep of France. It was iconic. It was easy. It was, unfortunately, killed off by the pandemic and a shift in how RENFE and CP (the Spanish and Portuguese rail operators) view long-distance overnight travel.
Nowadays? Taking a train from Lisbon to Paris is a bit of a mission.
It’s not impossible, though. Far from it. But if you’re expecting a one-click booking or a single straight shot through the Iberian Peninsula, you’re going to be disappointed. You’re looking at a minimum of three trains, two different countries’ rail systems, and a whole lot of scenery that most people miss when they fly over it at 30,000 feet.
Why the Direct Route Disappeared
The "Sud Express" was more than just a commute; it was a link that had existed since 1887. When COVID-19 hit in 2020, the service was suspended. Everyone assumed it would come back. It didn't.
There's a bunch of corporate finger-pointing involved here. Basically, the Spanish rail operator RENFE decided that the overnight "Trenhotel" services weren't profitable anymore. They’d rather move people on high-speed daytime tracks. Portugal’s CP (Comboios de Portugal) couldn't really run the train alone because most of the tracks are in Spain.
So, here we are.
If you want to make this trip today, you are essentially stitching together a patchwork quilt of regional and high-speed lines. It requires a bit of grit. You'll need to navigate the transition between the Portuguese broad gauge tracks and the European standard gauge tracks that start in Spain.
The Modern Route: Breaking it Down
The most common way to do this now involves heading north before you go east. You can’t just go straight through the middle of Spain easily because the connections at the border (like at Vilar Formoso) aren't timed for passengers anymore.
The First Leg: Lisbon to Hendaye
You start at Lisbon Oriente or Santa Apolónia. You’ll take the Intercidades or the Alfa Pendular (Portugal’s high-speed tilting train) up toward Coimbra or Porto, but usually, the goal is to get to the border town of Vilar Formoso or, more commonly for this specific route, heading toward Vigo or Madrid.
Actually, the most "standard" way—if we can call it that—is taking the train from Lisbon to Madrid first.
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But wait. There isn't a direct high-speed train from Lisbon to Madrid either. (I know, it’s wild for two neighboring EU capitals). You have to take a regional train to Entroncamento, then another to Badajoz, and then finally a Spanish Intercity or Alvia train to Madrid.
From Madrid, things get easier. You take the high-speed AVE or Ouigo up to Barcelona or straight toward the French border.
The French Connection at Hendaye
The real "hack" for the train from Lisbon to Paris enthusiasts is getting to the French border at Hendaye.
Hendaye is a sleepy little town on the edge of the Basque Country. It’s the magic spot where the Spanish tracks meet the French tracks. Once you’re in Hendaye, you are on the SNCF (French National Railway) network. From here, it’s a breeze. You hop on a TGV InOui, and you can be at Paris Montparnasse in about four and a half to five hours.
The TGV is fast. Really fast. You’ll be hitting speeds of $300\text{ km/h}$ through the French countryside, which feels like a fever dream compared to the slow, chugging regional trains you likely used to cross the border into Spain.
Is it Cheaper Than Flying?
Honestly? No.
If you book a flight on EasyJet or TAP Air Portugal, you can often find tickets for €50. The train will almost certainly cost you upwards of €150, and that’s if you book way in advance.
You’re doing this for the experience. You're doing it because you want to see the changing architecture of the Iberian Peninsula. You want to see the red-tiled roofs of Portugal turn into the rugged mountains of the Basque region and finally into the manicured outskirts of Paris.
The Logistics of Booking
This is where most people give up. You cannot go to one website and buy a ticket for the train from Lisbon to Paris. It just doesn't work.
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- CP.pt: Use this for the Portuguese legs.
- Renfe.com: Use this for the Spanish legs (and be prepared for the website to be a bit "finicky" with international credit cards).
- SNCF-connect.com: Use this for the final TGV leg from Hendaye to Paris.
A lot of savvy travelers use The Trainline or Omio to try and bundle these, but even then, the Portuguese regional connections often don't show up correctly.
A Quick Tip on Layovers
Don't try to time these connections perfectly. If your train from Badajoz to Madrid is delayed by 20 minutes—which happens—and you have a 15-minute window to catch your train to France, you're stranded.
Build in a night in Madrid. Or better yet, a night in San Sebastián. If you’re already spending 15 hours on trains, why not make it a two-day trip and actually eat some decent tapas along the way?
What to Pack for the Long Haul
Since you’ll be switching trains at least twice, maybe three times, do not bring a massive hardshell suitcase. You will hate yourself.
The gap between the platform and the train in some older Spanish stations is surprisingly large. You want a backpack or a very nimble carry-on.
Also, food. The bistro cars on the TGV are actually pretty good (try the Croque Monsieur), but the regional trains in Portugal and western Spain often have nothing but a vending machine that may or may not accept your coins. Pack water. Pack bifanas. Pack some heavy-duty power banks because while the TGV has outlets, the older Portuguese Intercidades might not—or they might be broken.
The Environmental Argument
Despite the hassle, taking the train from Lisbon to Paris is one of the biggest "carbon wins" you can have in European travel.
A flight from LIS to CDG emits roughly $250\text{kg}$ of $CO_2$ per passenger. Taking the train? You’re looking at closer to $10\text{kg}$ to $15\text{kg}$. It is a massive difference. For a lot of travelers in 2026, that’s the deciding factor. The "flight shame" (flygskam) is real, and the rails are the only honest way around it.
The Future: Will it Get Better?
There is some hope on the horizon. The European Union is pushing for the "Green Deal," which includes reviving cross-border night trains. There have been constant talks about a "Lusitânia" revival or a new high-speed link between Lisbon and Madrid.
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The Portuguese government has finally started investing in a high-speed line between Lisbon and Porto, which is the first step toward a faster connection to Spain. But realistically? We are probably five to ten years away from a seamless, high-speed train from Lisbon to Paris.
Until then, you’re an adventurer, not just a passenger.
Your Move: How to Actually Make This Happen
If you're ready to skip the airport security lines and see Europe the long way, here is exactly how you should plan it:
1. Map the Route First
Don't start by looking for tickets. Start by deciding where you want to stop. The most reliable path right now is Lisbon → Madrid → Hendaye → Paris.
2. Book the TGV First
The Hendaye to Paris leg is the one that fluctuates most in price. Use the SNCF Connect app. If you book three months out, you can snag a seat for €35. If you wait until the week of, it'll be €180.
3. Check the "Celta" Train
If you're in Northern Portugal, it's actually easier to take the "Celta" train from Porto to Vigo, then catch a train across Northern Spain to San Sebastián/Hendaye.
4. Use Man in Seat 61
Mark Smith (the guy behind the site) is the undisputed king of this stuff. If there is a last-minute track closure in rural Spain, he’ll know about it before the official apps do.
5. Embrace the Delay
Download some podcasts. Bring a book. This isn't a commute; it's a slow-motion tour of Western Europe. Treat the transfer time in Madrid or Hendaye as a chance to explore a neighborhood, not a stressful countdown.
By the time you pull into Paris Montparnasse, you'll feel like you've actually traveled across the continent, rather than just being teleported there in a pressurized metal tube. And that’s a feeling a budget airline can’t sell you.